Well Water Has Suddenly Gone Brown

[steve tym]

When a tank manufacturer offered a 7 year warrenty, I asked the other manufacturer if they were going to step up. The answer "If we have to warrenty the tank for 7 years, we have to build it to last 14, do you really want it to last that long?". I almost cried. I agree with you, they know exactly how long stuff will last and engineer it to have a limited life, even if it doesn't cost anymore.
I always promote 3 wire motors, large tanks and rigid pipe.

 

[Valveman]

Can't believe you got them to admit the tanks were made to fail after a certain time. That employee will get fired if they find out. It is a part of most non-disclosure agreements that no one talks about planned obsolescence. Usually only the higher ups in the corporations know anything about it. Most employees have never heard of it and don't know it is happening.

Air charge in your tank is critical to the life expectancy of every (most) component of your system.

I also agree with you on that statement. The reason the air charge in the tank is so critical is because that is what determines how often and how many times the pump will cycle on and off. A low air charge causes the pump to cycle more often, which is bad for the pump. But even a correct air charge is only enough to limit the cycling to the 1 minute or 2 minutes of run time recommended by the pump manufacturers. They recommend a 1 or 2 minute run time as that is how they determine how much quality they need to put into a pump to make it last past the warranty date. When using a Cycle Stop Valve the pump will not just run for a minute or two, it will run for as long as you are using water. Th CSV eliminates so many cycles that is shoots the pump manufacturers planned obsolescence in the foot. Pumps that were designed to last an average of 7 years are now lasting 30+ years. Same thing with the pressure tank. The bladders are designed to last about 7 years of going up and down from cycling. But if using a CSV it may take 30 years to put what is usually 7 years worth of cycles on the tank bladder. I understand why pump and tank manufacturers don't like me. But anyone who has a pump system of their own will save thousands and have stronger water pressure with a CSV.

 

[steve tym]

Anybody hear from the OP? How's his water doing?
I might have found someone that promotes longer system life, that's unusual.
Common in my area are 2 wire motors, small tanks (less than a 1 minute run time) and pumps set on poly pipe.
I like your arguments for the CSV, they have their place. I've always shied away because of the over pressure issues, but if it's a smaller lower pressure pump.....

 

[Valveman]

Anybody hear from the OP? How's his water doing?
I might have found someone that promotes longer system life, that's unusual.
Common in my area are 2 wire motors, small tanks (less than a 1 minute run time) and pumps set on poly pipe.
I like your arguments for the CSV, they have their place. I've always shied away because of the over pressure issues, but if it's a smaller lower pressure pump.....

The OP changed or added to the topic when his pump quit from a start cap going out. So, I think we are still on topic as both problems can be related. I just keep trying to ease doubts about the CSV as it will solve one of those problems, and maybe both, if the sediment is related to the pump cycling. I only suggest it because I am sure it will help the OP with the start cap problem, and could very well help with the sediment problem as well.

The only reason a 3 wire motor is better than a 2 wire is because it will handle more cycling. A small tank is OK with a CSV as the water just goes right past the tank when you are using it anyway. And poly pipe is fine as long as it is rated for the pressure required, and used with metal, extra long barbs with two hose clamps. Cycling is usually what causes problems with poly as it slaps around more than rigid pipe. Eliminate cycling and pumps last a long time even with 2 wire motors, small tanks, and poly pipe. And again, may even help with the sediment as well as many other things.

I understand your concern about the back pressure, but it is not "over pressure". It took me about 30 years to realize that pumps are MADE to make pressure. A pump that can build 300 PSI was designed to pump from 700' deep, which is the same as 300 PSI. 300 PSI is not going to hurt a pump that was made to build 300 PSI. I have some running now with over 500 PSI back pressure. As a matter of another fact, not having enough pressure on the pump is much harder on it than running at max pressure it can build. Running without enough pressure can destroy a pump from upthrust and high amps. There is less concern about the pipe when using smaller lower pressure pumps. But that is really all it is. If you have a pump that can build 500 PSI, you just need to make sure all the pipe before the CSV is rated for more than 500 PSI. Not only will running at max pressure not hurt the pump, it will make it last longer because adding back pressure is how a CSV eliminates cycling, upthrust, and many other problems. Nearly every pump system problem is related to cycling, which is why a Cycle Stop Valve is a disruptive product.

 

[Travelover]

OP here. Well, it is a week on and my water is as clear as it used to be. I don't know for sure if it was sediment in the tank as has been suggested or something to do with the high rainfall in April, but I'm grateful that it is much better.
I am aware that it is critical to minimize pump cycling and I keep a close eye on it as the tank is in the garage where I walk by constantly.
The tank is a bladderless type that uses a Schrader valve and a bleeder valve in the well to constantly replenish the air in the tank. Having never seen one, I freaked out the first time I heard it hissing and releasing air.
The well head is above ground and does not use a pitless adapter being in the PNW and not subject to deep freezes.
Thanks to everyone for pitching in and offering suggestions which I'm sure will be useful in the future.

 

[ponytug]

I'm glad to hear that your water is back to normal.

 

[Egon]

Clear water is always nice!!

Brown water with rain may indicate the casing is not properly sealed In the wellbore.

 

[hube2]

Clear water is always nice!!

Brown water with rain may indicate the casing is not properly sealed In the wellbore.

Well casings do not always go to the bottom of the well. This would actually be a rare thing around here due to bedrock. My well casing never was to the bottom and on top of that I had to have the well drilled even deeper during a drought one year. During long duration or heavy rain events the water table rises and water can enter the well though cracks in the bedrock that are high in the well, this can cause sediment at the bottom to be stirred up. The best thing to do in this case is to add a whole house filtration system to deal with those times when it happens. The best system is to have multiple filters in parallel to minimize the filters impact on pressure and flow rate. It is also a good idea to use reverse return piping so that the flow over each filter is equalized.

 

[oosik]

My water comes from a spring. This was developed in 1892 along with this homestead. It was upgraded in 1982 when we moved onto the property. Every year this water becomes a little "funky". Smells somewhat like dirt. There is always an unseen amount of sediment in the water. It builds up - somewhat - in the toilet tank. I do flush the pressure tank annually and the hot water heater.

I've continuously used this water since 1982. No filters - no chemical treatment.

If the OP's water has visible sediment - install a filter. OR - like I do - just wait. Mine clears in the late summer.

I've had my water tested. Chemically and bacterially - OK.

 

[Egon]

Well casings do not always go to the bottom of the well. This would actually be a rare thing around here due to bedrock. My well casing never was to the bottom and on top of that I had to have the well drilled even deeper during a drought one year. During long duration or heavy rain events the water table rises and water can enter the well though cracks in the bedrock that are high in the well, this can cause sediment at the bottom to be stirred up. The best thing to do in this case is to add a whole house filtration system to deal with those times when it happens. The best system is to have multiple filters in parallel to minimize the filters impact on pressure and flow rate. It is also a good idea to use reverse return piping so that the flow over each filter is equalized.

Matters not how deep the casing goes. If whatever casing there is can leak unwanted water if it’s not sealed properly.