What can I do with A 24HP tractor ?

[MT2501owner]

I have been using my BIL's Kubota 3010. It's nice and easily does all I need a tractor to do. For the most part that's dragging a box blade and moving dirt and crushed limestone with a FEL in an effort to get my 2.5 acres to drain correctly and to have a place to park the cars. I do need to move a bunch of clay to the waterfront to dress up the shoreline but that can be done in small steps over time. I need to return the borrowed tractor and have been looking at compact tractors to use to finish up the needed work on the property. I suspect there is actually a lot of difference between a 30 and a 24 HP tractor, but since I can't try them side by side, I'm sort of looking for guidance. A 4' box blade is OK, and a small bucket is OK, but not being able to scoop up a full bucket of heavy clay (from a pile) is probably not OK. So would I be happy with a small compact tractor ? Looking at both the Kubota and John Deer 24 HP models.

Thanks !

PS I just purchased an old MT2501, but it's unlikely I will keep it after realizing how hard it is to run with a load in the bucket and no power steering.

 

[/pine]

IMO...forget about HP...When I first started seriously shopping for a tractor I wanted something in the 25 HP range...I ran across a B1700 that other than HP was everything I was looking for within my allotted budget...The compromise was a no-brainer...!

The B1700 has done everything I have attempted without needing more HP...what it lacks is just weight...even with loaded rears I always run out of traction before I have ever run out of HP...!

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

My Dad has a JD 4010, 22hp, sub compact tractor that I used a lot before buying my Massey 1529, 29hp. The JD could do just about most of what I needed but the lift capacity and breakout force on the loader were not that strong. The JD is also not very heavy so a full bucket of dirt would really make it feel unstable even with a ballast box on the back. That is why I wanted something is the 30hp compact tractor range when I bought my tractor. The Massey hasn't disappointed so far. One thing to keep in mind is that if you are working by water lighter will leave smaller ruts in the soft soil near the water. We used the JD at our cottage to add sand to out beach and ruts are something we had to be careful with. Good luck with your search.

 

[SSdoxie]

More horse power gives the abilty to do the same job faster, less time. The jobs you descirbe here are more dependant on wieght for traction and engine torque. Torque is the working force/abilty of the engine. You can do most any job with smaller HP you just have go slower if using same sized tools/implements or use smaller tools to move faster but make more trips. Either way if equals mor etime to get the job done.

A good example is my tractor. It came in 3 models (27 hp, 30 hp, & 35 hp) with same frame size & weight, transmission, & loader. I can do the same jobs with my 27 hp as the 35 just need to gear down and go slower in the heavy pull/push situations.

 

[calman93611]

You can actually move a lot of material with a smaller tractor. I only have a 16hp Kubota B7100 with a FEL of about 6 cuft capacity, around 400-450 lbs. and I have moved a lot of dirt with it. Dry clay or compacted clay can be a big problem but it is important to learn how to use a tractor to get the most out of it. Bigger tractors can use brute force to scoop dirt out of a pile. Smaller tractor users generally will slowly use the FEL to knock down the pile and then scoop up the loose dirt. You should be able to move 6-8 tons of material/hour easily. Small tractor are LESS stable on uneven ground and often you will have to carry your bucket load low to the ground. You will find that lowering grade it is easier to use the ripper shanks on a box scraper to loosen the dirt, drag it into a pile then use your FEL to transport it. I usually find my high spots and drag to the low spots.

I think if I were in your shoes I would figure out your tractor budget then ask yourself what implements you will be using. Normally, the bigger the tractor the more expensive the implements. And if you get a used tractor then see if it is currently still being built. FEL/Backhoe may be harder to get once the tractor is out of production. Tillers, box scrapers, blade, 3 pt tool bar, can be had any time.

Based upon your acreage I think you would be ok with a 24-30 hp tractor.

 

[MT2501owner]

Thanks for all the feedback. My budget is $13K or less, which is what a JD1023 with FEL runs locally. Might consider used but the land is the project, not the tractor. Learned that with the MT2501.

 

[vtsnowedin]

It is not what can you do with 24 horse power which is a lot but what you can't do with it that is the question. You can't pick up something heavier then the loader will lift. Might be an issue if it can't be subdivided. Also you can't run attachments that take more the your 20 pto horsepower or safely pull loads that weigh more then your tractor. "A mans got to know his limitations" As long as you don't try to bite off more then the tractor can chew you'll be fine.

 

[arrow]

. So would I be happy with a small compact tractor ?

Possilbly and here is why:Your jobs are one off meaning "heavy work" will not always be a daily chore for the life of the tractor. That would be the only reason to go larger. It may take you more runs but a small dump cart that can take 3 or 4 bucket loads will speed up earth moving dramatically over the single bucket. You are then left with a tractor that will do many light duty chores as well such as cutting grass or maintaining drives and such. Now, the JD is considerably smaller than the Mitsu you own so as long as you have patience, the JD will work.

Slash Pine (/ pine) is dead on when he states hp is not a key to hone in on. HP should not be a measure of power a tractor has as much as it is a marker for tractor size because as / pine stated, I also have always lost traction before grunt petering out. A 40 hp tractor is larger than a 30 hp one as it usually jumps to the next frame size that can support larger and stronger attachments. Size, hydraulics and weight is what compels things to move in the tractor world. Sizing attachments to the power of the unit is equalized by engineering so yes, your smaller tractor will do everything you ask only slower over a larger one. Sort of like hunting turkeys with a 20 gauge. Will it kill them? Sure thing as the 12 and 20 gauge pellets are moving at the same speed. There is just more pellets in the 12 increasing chances of a hit. This does not make a 20 gauge necessarily "ineffective." Just as a smaller machine is also not "ineffective" and can be more useful than a larger machine with certain jobs.

It is too bad you're so far away. I have a buddy who wants to sell his JD 4010 with loader for 12.5 K. It has less than a hundred hrs on it and looks brand new.

 

[troutsqueezer]

I think it would be easier to answer if the question was "what CAN'T I do with a 24 HP tractor?"

 

[Gunny]

24 HP is a great size for a smaller plots, you can do anything (within reason) that a larger tractor can do, it will just take you a little longer to do it. I used to mow 12-14 acres of farm land with a 4 foot rotary cutter on a 16 HP tractor, I also used a 4 foot tiller on a large garden and a 4 foot rear finish mower to maintain the large yard. A larger tractor would have been able to do all of that faster using wider implements, but I didn't want a larger tractor. The smaller tractor naturally won't pull, push or lift as much, but in many cases you can just eat those elephants one bite at a time, for the rare instances where you can't divide the chore, rent or borrow more machine.

 

[RalphVa]

My first job with my 18.5 hp JD 4010 was hauling 22 tons of gravel to put on a pathway that goes ACROSS near the top of our hill behind the house, so that it wouldn't slide sideways down the hill. Just needed a bit of technique to get the bucket going down and curling up a bit as I eased forward to fill it every time.

My present JD 1025R does it at a little lower rpm. That's all. I'd take my 4010 back if it had the goodies on it that the 1025 has and save the 0.15 gph increase in fuel that the 1025 uses.

Ralph

 

[Baby Grand]

PS I just purchased an old MT2501, but it's unlikely I will keep it after realizing how hard it is to run with a load in the bucket and no power steering.

Next time you do any heavy FEL work, load up some weight on your 3pt hitch (weight aft of the rear axle) and see what that does to your steering before you ditch the Mitsu. If you don't have a heavy implement like a tiller, read up on DIY ballast box builds. Should greatly reduce the steering effort by taking a lot of the load off of your front axle. Your front axle will thank you by lasting a lot longer, too.

 

[bigtiller]

Thanks for all the feedback. My budget is $13K or less, which is what a JD1023 with FEL runs locally. Might consider used but the land is the project, not the tractor. Learned that with the MT2501.

With your list and that "lawnmower", the easiest thing to accomplish will you getting frustrated. Forget the 1023. Jump up in frame size to at least a 2025

 

[meos1]

BX2370 for me. I have been digging and pulling out smaller trees (<6 inches in diameter). The tractor does everything I want and I have a little more than 2 acres of property. Yes, mowing is its primary duty. I am done in an hour now as opposed to the old riding mower which took about 3.5 hours. The FEL gets the job done, I am able to spread rock on the drive and pull a tiller as well as a small plow. I just dont ask it to pick up items which are obviously too big for it.

I am thinking of making a grapple for the FEL even. I am happy with what I have but new I paid about 16K for the tractor, FEL, MMM, and a bagger on the 3pth. I bought all the other implements as I went along. 2 cents.

 

[Jay4200]

24 HP is plenty. The benefit of higher HP shows up when running ground engaging powered implements. Dragging around a blade or running a backhoe doesn't require much in the way of HP, but does require weight for traction and stability, so don't get a glorified garden tractor if you want to do real work - get something with size and weight, but don't worry about the rated HP.

 

[MortalWombat]

I have a 23 hp Kubota, a B2320, and it has done everything I've wanted to do. It's my primary mower, it plows my 1/3 mile long driveway in the winter, and it skids logs out of my woods. I needed something small enough to be able to maneuver in my woods, but hefty enough to handle the snow plowing and log skidding. I never try to skid too big of a log. If it's too big to handle, I just cut it up some more with the chainsaw.

 

[Threepoint]

OP, you're getting some good advice here. I think 23 - 26 hp is plenty for what you describe, especially if you go with the larger frame size in whatever brand you end up with, and have the rear tires filled for ballast. E.g., I do think Bigtiller is right about the frame-size jump from the JD 1023 to the JD 2025. But the price jump between those two will be significant. Folks seem to love their Kubota BX models. But there again, if you can swing it, I think you'd be happier with the B series. Especially if you like using your BIL's Kubota L3010, with its still larger frame. My little Kubota B 2150HST with LA350 loader is rated at only 22 hp (downrated from 24 due to the HST), and has only 18 hp at the PTO. It has just 800 lbs lift for the 54" FEL at full height of 96", and barely more than 1000 lbs lift at the 3pt hitch. But it is a virtual beast with its frame and big rear wheels and filled turf tires. For 21 years. it has amazed me with the amount of work it can do. Quick for loader work in mid-range, and handles a 5' lightweight box blade (even with scarifiers partially down) and a 6' lightweight scrape blade with ease, again in mid-range. So hp is certainly not the be all and end all.

I know you said you are looking at JD and Kubota. Fine brands, but do yourself a big favor and look also at the smaller Kioti series HST tractors with loaders, particularly the CK2510. I think you'll be surprised at how much farther your dollars will go. You're in Houston, with several dealers in shouting distance where you can easily test drive and kick the tires. The Kioti website is fairly user-friendly for comparing specs, attachments, implements and tires.

 

[geminimoon66]

We have a Satoh S550G that puts out 17 HP and have never had an issue of lack of power. Has a FEL and a CAT3- 3-point hitch. Use a 4' Yanmar tiller, 5' back blade, middle-buster and a 12" single bottom plow.

This thing is used to clear fence rows, plowing snow, plowing/tilling an acre garden, collecting maple sap, clearing trees and then some on our little 3 acre hemestead. It has moved tons of dirt, rock, mulch & gravel with little to no trouble. Got this for a great deal and was in the market for a bigger machine but this has not failed us yet!

 

[RPW]

My first tractor (and we still have it) is a 12HP powerking economy tractor with FEL. When we first got it I used it to mow our 25 acres and it did great. Not real fast of did the job great. Also used it to dig out pits and level areas etc. With it I can actually pick up so much weight in the bucket that I can lift up the back end completely off the ground. And yes the tires are loaded and I 100# weights on each tire. So you can do a great deal of work with a 24HP tractor. We've cleared our new land of Junipers (scrub cedars) and now that they are dried out we're moving them to the burn pit. My wife is on the PK and I'm on our 50HP JD 5103. She's very capable at pushing these fairly large root balls and trees to the pit. The only advantage I had was I could pick up those same trees with the FEL. As long as the PK has traction it will do amazing things.

 

[Scrambler82]

Here on Pi day I will comment, 3.1415... !

I had a Yanmar SC2450, 24 hp little tractor, did all I needed, had plenty of power.

I sold it got a Mahindra Max28, 28 hp, feels under powered, runs out of steam just going up a hill.
I am learning to work with this tractor but so far I am thinking the 24 hp tractor had a more powerful feel.

Give me 8 months to a years and things might change.