What did you do on or to your LS Tractor today?

[Cataclysm]

Installed a french drain today and backfilled with the LS.

This is where an LS has an advantage over other cab tractors from my view point. It has the smallest cabs that I found when looking for a tractor. I can work it in tight spots other tractors won't fit in.

 

[Diggin It]

A few days ago I went out to the shed, started her up and off I went ... used it for a couple of hours without incident. When I drove back into the shed, I noticed an oil spot in the dirt I didn't remember - directly under where the engine was while it was parked. I looked under and didn't see anything or signs of recent dripping. But after I parked, I went ahead and laid a dry mat under that area. Checked it the next day and it was dry, no drips. Same for the next day or two, so I blew it off as a spot I had forgotten about.

Today I go out and that mat is wet. I looked underneath and couldn't see anything at first, then found one drop on the MMM front mount bracket/stabilizer. Touched my finger to it and I could see it was red. Must be diesel. Looked around more and couldn't find a source.

Cranked it over and it fired right up ... figured I see a leak under pressure. Nope. Nothing. Took it out, mowed for most of an hour watching below when I could ... no leak. Pulled it back into the shed, got underneath ... no sign of any leak. Went back out twice a couple of hours later ... no sign of drips.


Been thinking about it since and wonder what to to. The wet spot was directly under the canister style filter houseing at the front of the engine .. which is why it was over the MMM bracket.

If it was leaking from there, why couldn't I see anything current?

It's been hot and the shed is covered from the Sun, but open on both sides (haven't finished the doors yet). Could it have gotten hot enough in there to expand something that let fuel leak for a short period?

I can't get to the filter easily due to the side panels. I need to take the hood off to get the panels off which is not something I want to do in 95 degree heat.




On that note, do the side panels really need to be on? Is it necessary to help direct air flow for cooling? If not, I might leave them off for a while.

 

[RjCorazza]

I would think that if the canister fuel filter was leaking even a very small amount there would be evidence of it on the bottom of the filter. I would remove the side panels and get my hands on everything fuel related. More likely it's a very slow leak from a fuel line connection, but who knows.
I doubt there would be any airflow issues in leaving the panels off for a while. Good luck in finding the problem!

 

[Diggin It]

What sucks is that the side panels don't come off independently. This is all screwed together as a single unit.

And then once you get it off and get the side panels separated, I'm not sure the grille and headlights can be put back in place without them since the four bolts (8) seem to be the only points of mounting to the frame.

 

[Diggin It]

No drips on the floor, but once I got the hood, nose and panels off and started it up ......

I see you ! Other end shows wet too:

Replaced the hose and use a different style clamp. Started right up again, so it didn't lose prime.

This is the third hose leak I've had and this one is at both ends:

I'll say though, she looks a lot better with her top on than off:

I may try to find a way to get the nose and hood on without the side panels, but I can't run it like this. Too much open like the fan and flywheel gears. I'll need to fab up some kind of brackets to do that though.

That filter is gonna be a bear to change when it comes time. I can't see how I'll get a wrench on that clamping ring with so little clearance.

 

[PCABE5]

Pretty good detective work.

 

[Diggin It]

'Nother problem after the BH Joystick issues (separate thread).

When it was at the dealer for the front wheel bearings and seals, I had them install the adapter kit so I could take the 3Pt off without removing a wheel. This is the first time I've put the BH on since then. It wen on OK, but it wouldn't come off. It wouldn't lift high enough to get free from the bottom hooks of the mount. Found out the wings of the BH frame were catching on the new bolt heads. The far OD of the two bolts seems to be about an 1/8 of an inch wider than the BH frame clearance. No amount of jockeying was going to work. Had to pull one of those bolts and it came off easy as always.

Guess I need to run a grinder over these wings and bolts to put a taper on them.

 

[Avenger]

Yep. Thats what I'd do.
I had fitment issues with my BH mount (but it was slightly more custom than yours.). I took the bench grinder to the heads of a few bolts and shaved them down slightly. Also had to taper a pin or two.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Aaaahhhhh..... if you're taking off the 3 point to have the BH on, those plates and bolts aren't needed....

Then the BH goes on and off no problem....

The purpose of the retrofit kit is to be able to take the 3 point arms easily.... With the kit, you can do this either off or on in under 3 minutes.....
Matter of fact, I used to take off the 3 point arms, stabilizers, and the cross shaft as one unit.... set it down on the garage floor... done!

Just take off the darn 3 point stuff when you're using the BH!
I wouldn't grind any of the kit..... use an implement and while using, break off one of those bolts (that you ground down) holding the 3 point 'shaft' and it will slip out..... let us know how that works out!

 

[Mrsig]

Added chain hooks to my bucket.