What did you do on or to your LS Tractor today?

LS Tractor Owner · Feb 14, 2020

Diggin It said:
I do the barrel with hand crank pump. Got an inconvenient place for it right now, so I can't really fill directly from the barrel. I use a one gallon jug, crank the fuel into it, then pour into the tank. Once I get this shed built, I'll rearrange so I can do it right. This temporary gig showed me I get 16 cranks per gallon, so I can use that later to count cranks to know how much goes in. With a 6 gallon tank, it won't be too much trouble. For a bigger tank, that might be a lot of cranking.

I guess my filler cap is a bit forward of that one. No problem to stand beside even with the tiller or BH mounted.

The MT125 was no problem for me, it is about 2 ft lower and on the fender. The 3025 has 43 inch tall tires, then it is another 8-10 inches above those, about shoulder level (I am 6 ft tall).
I looked at some hand crank transfer pumps, but they were way too expensive vs. just hand filling with a can.

Now, the pump that Papachaz listed would be worth the gamble of $10. I had a similar one that I purchased for a fish tank a few years ago.... did not work all that good, so never gave it a thought.

So, with that in mind, Papachaz, how well / fast does that one work? Would it work if the can was sitting on the floorboard?

So far this winter, I go through a tank about every 3 weeks, summer will be about every 2 weeks. I have a clean 55 gal drum, but I do not want to have fuel just sitting around. Our temps can vary as much as 50 degrees from day / night, so condensation is a big problem. Plus the logistics to get the barrel filled....

Diggin It · Feb 14, 2020

LS mt125 owner said:
I looked at some hand crank transfer pumps, but they were way too expensive vs. just hand filling with a can..

HF's showing them for $50, but I don't remember paying that. I'm too cheap to pay that, so I probably had a coupon or got it on sale. I remember 20-something.

Diggin It · Feb 14, 2020

Found out the Blue Djinn don't like 20 degrees. Gave it about a 15-20 count on the GPs, then to start. Did the BIG shimmyshake!!! Bout rattled the hood off, then stalled. Gave it another 20 count, then started again and it still shook for a bit before smoothing out.

RSR · Feb 14, 2020

Diggin It said:
Found out the Blue Djinn don't like 20 degrees. Gave it about a 15-20 count on the GPs, then to start. Did the BIG shimmyshake!!! Bout rattled the hood off, then stalled. Gave it another 20 count, then started again and it still shook for a bit before smoothing out.

I was a little concerned this morning as I needed to clear some snow, and it was -13 outside. My tractor is in the garage, but it was well below freezing in there. I cycled the glow plugs twice, and she fired right up no problem. (I have an LS as well).

Best decision I made was listening to folks who said if you do a lot of snow removal, get a cab. -13 outside, balmy warm inside as I sip on my hot chocolate.

LS Tractor Owner · Feb 14, 2020

Diggin It said:
Found out the Blue Djinn don't like 20 degrees. Gave it about a 15-20 count on the GPs, then to start. Did the BIG shimmyshake!!! Bout rattled the hood off, then stalled. Gave it another 20 count, then started again and it still shook for a bit before smoothing out.

Do you have any additives in the fuel? An once to 1 1/2 once’s in 5 gal of power service white bottle does wonders!

LS Tractor Owner · Feb 14, 2020

I use 1 1/2 ounces in 5 gal, the 3025 starts up first cycle of GPs, about 8 seconds, coughs once or twice, but then is smooth. This was when it was 8 degrees overnight, 15 degrees when she started....

Racenut · Feb 15, 2020

Got the grill guard upgraded to hopefully keep the LS from getting a black eye.

Doofy · Feb 15, 2020

Racenut said:
Got the grill guard upgraded to hopefully keep the LS from getting a black eye.

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Looks good! I need to do the same.

Diggin It · Feb 15, 2020

Yeah, there's PSW in the go-juice. Ran fine after that first few seconds.

I've been planning on some stainless steel expanded metal so I don't have to paint it.

PCABE5 · Feb 15, 2020

GSVette said:
Avenger,

Heard you mention in your video a ‘fix’ for the turbo failure that came up on the New Holland’s a while back-did you get an actual TSB number regarding the ‘fix’-I’m wanting to get my XR4155 upgraded if there is a fix-I’d probably go to the same place that you’re having it done by.

Just to clear up what could be some confusion about the turbo failure. It had nothing to do with DPF regeneration. Rather it had to do with oil weight being to heavy and revving the motor to quickly after startup when it's really cold.

So the software will disable the throttle if ambient and coolant temperatures are within a set of parameters. It may also follow NH and recommend 0-40 oil.

GSVette · Feb 15, 2020

PCABE5 said:
Just to clear up what could be some confusion about the turbo failure. It had nothing to do with DPF regeneration. Rather it had to do with oil weight being to heavy and revving the motor to quickly after startup when it's really cold.

So the software will disable the throttle if ambient and coolant temperatures are within a set of parameters. It may also follow NH and recommend 0-40 oil.

That’s what I recall from the NH TSB. I reached out to LS after the NH oil issue was brought up and was told there was nothing from LS. Has the Spokane dealer given you a TSB reference?

LS Tractor Owner · Feb 15, 2020

Racenut said:
Got the grill guard upgraded to hopefully keep the LS from getting a black eye.

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Looks very good! That should help prevent some damage for sure!

RSR · Feb 15, 2020

PCABE5 said:
Just to clear up what could be some confusion about the turbo failure. It had nothing to do with DPF regeneration. Rather it had to do with oil weight being to heavy and revving the motor to quickly after startup when it's really cold.

So the software will disable the throttle if ambient and coolant temperatures are within a set of parameters. It may also follow NH and recommend 0-40 oil.

I wonder if that has been addressed through start up procedures? My LS, purchased in Fall 2019, explicitly states to run the tractor at idle for at least 1 minute before raising RPMs to allow proper oil circulation to the turbo.

PCABE5 · Feb 15, 2020

RSR said:
I wonder if that has been addressed through start up procedures? My LS, purchased in Fall 2019, explicitly states to run the tractor at idle for at least 1 minute before raising RPMs to allow proper oil circulation to the turbo.

That very well could be that they did as you stated. Not sure if LS made software changes as well like New Holland did. Makes sense to limit operator error.

Watching egts it's just as important to idle for cool down as well in summer heat.

RSR · Feb 15, 2020

PCABE5 said:
That very well could be that they did as you stated. Not sure if LS made software changes as well like New Holland did. Makes sense to limit operator error.

Watching egts it's just as important to idle for cool down as well in summer heat.

I should have mentioned in my original post, it does same the same about cool down. Bring it down to idle for at least a minute before turning off.

PCABE5 · Feb 15, 2020

RSR said:
I should have mentioned in my original post, it does same the same about cool down. Bring it down to idle for at least a minute before turning off.

It's been my experience that it takes longer to cool down. For example, a 80 degree day mowing for hours will take mine about 5 minutes to cool down. That is parked with the AC off. The other day it was 1°F and it took about 1.5 minutes to cool.

I monitor the EGT probe through the obd port and I look for 350 degrees or less before I shut it off. So if you don't have a gauge I'd suggest letting it cool a bit longer.

Doofy · Feb 15, 2020

PCABE5 said:
That very well could be that they did as you stated. Not sure if LS made software changes as well like New Holland did. Makes sense to limit operator error.

Watching egts it's just as important to idle for cool down as well in summer heat.

My LS Dealer came out and did the software update that limits the throttle until the Turbo is sure to have oil. A 6 hour drive in a blizzard for a 5 minute update! That is a dedicated Dealer.

RSR · Feb 15, 2020

PCABE5 said:
It's been my experience that it takes longer to cool down. For example, a 80 degree day mowing for hours will take mine about 5 minutes to cool down. That is parked with the AC off. The other day it was 1°F and it took about 1.5 minutes to cool.

I monitor the EGT probe through the obd port and I look for 350 degrees or less before I shut it off. So if you don't have a gauge I'd suggest letting it cool a bit longer.

Good to know.

RSR · Feb 15, 2020

PCABE5 said:
It's been my experience that it takes longer to cool down. For example, a 80 degree day mowing for hours will take mine about 5 minutes to cool down. That is parked with the AC off. The other day it was 1°F and it took about 1.5 minutes to cool.

I monitor the EGT probe through the obd port and I look for 350 degrees or less before I shut it off. So if you don't have a gauge I'd suggest letting it cool a bit longer.

Can you provide a description/picture/explanation of how you did that? It seems to me that would be a very useful monitor/gauge to have. It is unclear to me how much a tractor really needs to "warm up" before operating. (We don't think anything about hopping in a car, cranking it over, and heading down the road at 50 mph).

Is it a couple minutes to get the oil flowing freely to the turbo, and then taking off? I hear of people running their tractors for 30 minutes to warm up on cold days, which doesn't make much sense to my (admittedly) ignorant self.

Having a quantitative measure of the engine temperature would be useful.

PCABE5 · Feb 15, 2020

RSR said:
Can you provide a description/picture/explanation of how you did that? It seems to me that would be a very useful monitor/gauge to have. It is unclear to me how much a tractor really needs to "warm up" before operating. (We don't think anything about hopping in a car, cranking it over, and heading down the road at 50 mph).

Is it a couple minutes to get the oil flowing freely to the turbo, and then taking off? I hear of people running their tractors for 30 minutes to warm up on cold days, which doesn't make much sense to my (admittedly) ignorant self.

Having a quantitative measure of the engine temperature would be useful.