What did you do on or to your LS Tractor today?

[RSR]

Your question on warm up will give you many answers. I will say where it's stored in the winter is the most important, outside is 10 below or in a heated shed. Idling for 30 minutes is just something I wouldn't do myself.

Here is a link to a picture of my monitor.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=412924

Here is the obd tool I bought. The software is from OBDLink.

Amazon.com: OBDLink 42611 ScanTool MX Bluetooth: Professional Grade OBD-II Automotive Scan Tool for Windows and Android – DIY Car and Truck Data and Diagnostics: Automotive

Thanks!

 

[Aavantaggio]

Your question on warm up will give you many answers. I will say where it's stored in the winter is the most important, outside is 10 below or in a heated shed. Idling for 30 minutes is just something I wouldn't do myself.

Here is a link to a picture of my monitor.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=412924

Here is the obd tool I bought. The software is from OBDLink.

Amazon.com: OBDLink 42611 ScanTool MX Bluetooth: Professional Grade OBD-II Automotive Scan Tool for Windows and Android – DIY Car and Truck Data and Diagnostics: Automotive

So do you just leave the OBD hooked up and use it while you’re running the tractor for added info besides what’s on the dash? Seems like a pretty cheap way to keep an eye on things. Any issues setting it up or running it?

 

[sodamo]

Got the grill guard upgraded to hopefully keep the LS from getting a black eye.

View attachment 641554View attachment 641555

Very nice. On my list.

 

[PCABE5]

So do you just leave the OBD hooked up and use it while you’re running the tractor for added info besides what’s on the dash? Seems like a pretty cheap way to keep an eye on things. Any issues setting it up or running it?

I plug the OBD Link in when I start it. I personally don't leave it connected but I'm sure you could without issue. I use it every time I'm going to use the tractor (except just moving it or something simple). The tablet I use stays mounted in the tractor but you could use a smartphone just as easily.

I have had no issues with the OBD/monitor and I've used it for about 100 hours. I hardly look at the dash because I have everything I need on the monitor.

Might not be for everyone but it works well for me.

 

[lostcreekranch]

It is not bad when the BH or mower is on. Still a pain. It would not be too bad if the stupid can poured out faster.... it still has the new “ safety spout “ on it.... basically gives a ‘ glug ‘ then has to balance the vacuum created, then another ‘glug ‘... on and on for what seems 10 minutes... all the while holding the darn thing up there.

I would love to have the stupid engineering guy come and hold it! I tell myself every time I am at TSC to buy one of the high flow kits... but always forget....... until I have to fuel it up again... I WILL GET ONE SOON! :thumbsup:

You can also get the EZ Pour Hi Flow at Amazon

Amazon.com: EZ-POUR BYP3YTXM Replacement Water Jug Or Gas Can Spout-Deluxe Hi-Flo System with Extension, Pack of 1: Home Improvement

Adding the vent, that comes with it, makes a huge difference.

The standard EZ Pour will empty 5 gallons in about 60 seconds. The high flo takes about 30 seconds.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

You can also get the EZ Pour Hi Flow at Amazon

Amazon.com: EZ-POUR BYP3YTXM Replacement Water Jug Or Gas Can Spout-Deluxe Hi-Flo System with Extension, Pack of 1: Home Improvement

Adding the vent, that comes with it, makes a huge difference.

The standard EZ Pour will empty 5 gallons in about 60 seconds. The high flo takes about 30 seconds.

Thanks for the link... good to know about the difference.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Thanks for the link... good to know about the difference.

Just adding the yellow vents would help the spouts, you have now, tremendously. Simple to install ... drill a 1/2” hole, push in the vent.

 

[Waterproofer23]

Dragging trees

 

[Avenger]

Sorry, Been out sick lately, havent had time to be on the internet.

About PCABE5's post "Just to clear up what could be some confusion about the turbo failure. It had nothing to do with DPF regeneration. Rather it had to do with oil weight being to heavy and revving the motor to quickly after startup when it's really cold.

So the software will disable the throttle if ambient and coolant temperatures are within a set of parameters. It may also follow NH and recommend 0-40 oil."

This is what I was meaning in my latest video. I will correct it in my next video. I spoke to the LS dealer in Spokane (Scott) about it when this became an issue, he said he has also heard about it and will come out to update the tractor when he was able. That was actually the last time I spoke to Scott, several months ago. It's a non-issue for me, as I always use the proper oil and always warm up my tractor properly, and a service call from the dealer can be expensive. Maybe if I ever break the tractor to the point where it is required the dealer fix it, I will have them update it.... if they have the 'fix' yet.

What I think I was remembering when I made the video was tractors that went into regen mode right away after start up. The tractor revs up and blows the turbo when its too cold. The software fix should fix that issue. PCABE5 is correct.

I apologize for misspeaking thinking it had something to do with the DPF, which I dont think I said in the video. I will clarify it in the next one.

 

[Avenger]

This was the issue I was referring to:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...g/408326-ls-engine-issue.html?highlight=turbo

That was a year ago.

 

[BBHomestead]

It is not bad when the BH or mower is on. Still a pain. It would not be too bad if the stupid can poured out faster.... it still has the new safety spout on it.... basically gives a glug then has to balance the vacuum created, then another 組lug ?.. on and on for what seems 10 minutes... all the while holding the darn thing up there.

I would love to have the stupid engineering guy come and hold it! I tell myself every time I am at TSC to buy one of the high flow kits... but always forget....... until I have to fuel it up again... I WILL GET ONE SOON! :thumbsup:

All my 5 gallon plastic fuel jugs i took a 3/16 drill bit just drill a hole at top corner opposite end from pour spout and then thread a 1/4 inch lag bolt in and out a few times till its smooth enough to do with bare hands! It pours 3 times faster than before costs less than 15 cents a jug! Dont buy those aftermarket kits because i bet they designed those kits before they actually changed the cans not to work properly! I also save old tubes from my kids bicycles and cut them into pieces about 6 inches long zip tie one end closed and put them over thr pour spouts instead of putting the spouts back into the jug keeps the fuel clean and dont get fuel on hands saves time not switching spouts from a inny to a outy!

 

[BBHomestead]

This was the issue I was referring to:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...g/408326-ls-engine-issue.html?highlight=turbo

That was a year ago.

Not saying im a expert or anything! I have been using turbo diesel engines for over 30 years and have never had a turbo failure on anything that i used or maintained from new! I have had maybe 2 go out that were on 500k plus highway use trucks! Its 3 things i have learned from old timers or mechanics along the way. First always wait for engine to warm up before doing anything other than maybe moving it around to hook up attachments or move out of garage! And this includes summer time use. Second is use correctly weighted oils per manufacturer's specs! If they bother to write it in a manual then they have their reasons! Last always change oil when supposed to and make sure other things like air filter are cleaned or changed plus radiator is clean. If radiator is blocked gets oil too hot breaking it down way before normally would! If oil gets too dirty the first parts that are damaged are bearings in hottest parts of engine or machines! And the turbos bearings are probably the hottest ones in most diesel engines! Warm up and cool down for diesel engines is really important but also important on gas engines even your smallest ones like a chainsaw or gas blower the main reason your chainsaw stops working is scoring of the cylinder it happens because people start it and then go to full throttle and start cutting this dont let the part's heat up and get to their proper dimensions and dont allow enough oil build up on parts! Sorry if this is too long a read but a little patients could save you a lot more than you would think!

 

[BBHomestead]

Did a little tree removal last few days this is one of 4 i removed! Used my Ls 98 link belt to pull the trees over popping the root balls out of the ground! Then cut trees up saving any bigger pieces to cut up on my new mill and rest going to the burn pile with these stumps!

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

All my 5 gallon plastic fuel jugs i took a 3/16 drill bit just drill a hole at top corner opposite end from pour spout and then thread a 1/4 inch lag bolt in and out a few times till its smooth enough to do with bare hands! It pours 3 times faster than before costs less than 15 cents a jug! Dont buy those aftermarket kits because i bet they designed those kits before they actually changed the cans not to work properly! I also save old tubes from my kids bicycles and cut them into pieces about 6 inches long zip tie one end closed and put them over thr pour spouts instead of putting the spouts back into the jug keeps the fuel clean and dont get fuel on hands saves time not switching spouts from a inny to a outy!

Believe me, I have had the drill in my hand many times! The issue with the can is that it is one of those rigid spouts, so cannot bend it into the filler neck. The can ends up totally upside down, so the hole would have to be on the bottom in order to vent. I am going to try one of the flexible ones off of a gas can that I have. If it works any better, I will drill like you suggested. The inner tube idea is great also!

 

[BBHomestead]

Believe me, I have had the drill in my hand many times! The issue with the can is that it is one of those rigid spouts, so cannot bend it into the filler neck. The can ends up totally upside down, so the hole would have to be on the bottom in order to vent. I am going to try one of the flexible ones off of a gas can that I have. If it works any better, I will drill like you suggested. The inner tube idea is great also!

On mine i put the spout in the tank then unsrew the lag bolt it makes less chance of pouring too fast and missing tank then can put finger over drilled hole if want to slow the pour to remove from tank but i usually fill a whole 5 gallons at a time! And my inner tube pieces will stay on in back of truck driving to gas station!

 

[Diggin It]

Helpful hint for the day: If 200+ pounds of lard can't stand in a spot without sinking, slipping or sliding, don't expect 10 times that in steel and rubber to be able to.

 

[sodamo]

Loaded everything up. Tractor sure came in handy
View attachment 642903

 

[DeN4VQ]

I bought a Northern Tool scrapper blade for my LS125. I made a video of the assembly NorthernToolScrapperBlade - YouTube

 

[Diggin It]

Burnt some diesel moving some dirt around. OK, somewhere between dirt and mud, but you get the idea.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

On mine i put the spout in the tank then unsrew the lag bolt it makes less chance of pouring too fast and missing tank then can put finger over drilled hole if want to slow the pour to remove from tank but i usually fill a whole 5 gallons at a time! And my inner tube pieces will stay on in back of truck driving to gas station!

I needed fuel today, so stopped at TSC and picked up the high flow kit with the extension. I drilled the vent cap in, works really well. Still a struggle to heave the 5gal up to shoulder level, but at least now it is only for brief time. Only cost $13.99 at TSC.