What do you think about this trailer?

[megaboz]

My experience, get at least 20'. 10k trailer. Mine has 8k load capacity. Dove tail, great to load cars. Prefer to have deck over but my little tractor tends to slide around trying to get up the ramps. Deck over is easier to load stuff the sides.

Get the rub rails and stake pockets. Her tie downs every 2 feet down the sides. You'll appreciate it later. Get provisions to have a winch mounted later, I had a plate put on mine mad used an upside down mounted bumper hitch and a removal winch mount with an 8k winch. Never know when you have to drag something up on the trailer. Even if u don't plan to use it now it is there later.

Brakes generally are on both axles.

I bought cheap before, ended up trading it in less than a year later because of the features it didn't have.

Not I am thinking about tip up ramps, personally getting tired of the slide out ramps. Generally when loading the trailer with the pull out car ramps I have to block the end of the trailer so it doesn't lift my truck. Had that happen. Not fun. Cargo ramps might be preferred in my future.

 

[mfreund]

I was wondering if the frame was heavy enough. I did not even look at the tie down points...good catch! I use grade 70 chains and binders for load securement. My last trailer was flat and had trouble loading any tractor with a MMM deck. I thought the beaver tail might help.

For more info, The 4310 has two sets of wheel weights, 4 70 lb weights on the front, and a 430 loader. I would likely be hauling it with the loader on and a 6' box blade or the loader off with the 70 lb weights and a Deere 655 rototiller. I really want a trailer I can haul with the 72" mower deck on the tractor.

 

[megaboz]

I was wondering if the frame was heavy enough. I did not even look at the tie down points...good catch! I use grade 70 chains and binders for load securement. My last trailer was flat and had trouble loading any tractor with a MMM deck. I thought the beaver tail might help.

For more info, The 4310 has two sets of wheel weights, 4 70 lb weights on the front, and a 430 loader. I would likely be hauling it with the loader on and a 6' box blade or the loader off with the 70 lb weights and a Deere 655 rototiller. I really want a trailer I can haul with the 72" mower deck on the tractor.

You might be able to fit the 72" between the fenders but you will definitely need to lift the discharge flap (assuming it is the same as my 60 inch deck) on the mower deck.

I would definitely consider 20 feet instead of 18 but I would go bigger if i could. Dove tails tend to drag in the right circumstances but are nicer in other regards.

 

[dodge man]

It has stake pockets for tie down points. Maybe not as good as D rings, but they work. Remember he is hauling a 5000lb tractor, not a bull dozier.

 

[Soundguy]

i prefer rub rales and stake pockes to drings myself. easy to add a dring with a metal hot glue gun if needed, way easier than adding stake pockets and rub rales anyway, if needed .. imho

 

[megaboz]

It has stake pockets for tie down points. Maybe not as good as D rings, but they work. Remember he is hauling a 5000lb tractor, not a bull dozier.

Well, I am just stating based on my experience and what I totally disliked about my first trailer. Basically just food for thought. There also only appears to be 3 on the front and 2 on the rear for the stake pockets, pretty much the same as mine, and I often find that they are not in the right location depending on what I haul. Maybe not an issue for the OP, but since he asked for comments, I thought I would put it out there.

As for the stake pockets, using chain binders based off my new trailer (may or may not be the same the OP's trailer) they were weak and bent very easily. Probably more due in part that my trailer is only a 10k trailer and not a 20k, but still thought a point I would make as well. I just happen to prefer both. I use the rub rails for tie downs when neither the stake pocket or the D-Rings are available in the right locations.

I didn't do so good in the math department, but a 5000 lb tractor being towed and suddenly has to come to a stop applies a lot of torque on the tie downs, so too much is typically not a bad thing. For a few dollars more, if I can feel safe from the attack of my own equipment and the lawyers, I would opt for it. One of the things I have noticed when tying to use just the rub rail as a tie down point, if not connected so it can't slide, it will slide and your tie downs will loosen, the stake pocket helps eliminate that since it can slide past or out of it and the D-Rings will do a better job in my opinion.

 

[hawkeye08]

I ended up with 20' trailer, 10k rating, stake pockets on the sides, couple of D-rings in the front, brakes on both of the 5200lb axles. I have jacks on both back corners to keep things from moving around when loading. they also make it easy to change flat tire (happen once already)..

I recommend the back corner jacks if your trailer is not a tilt version.