What implement best for turf grading with compact tractor?

   #1  

ukrkoz

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OK, so I finally have tractor. 30Hp compact. Loader and 3 point.
I live on 6 acre, 1/4 of it is wetland with puddles and mud.
Property is 2 levels. It's all grass, with some trees.
Upper level is more or less graded flat, just bumpy.
Lower level is like as if driving on lake waves. Small hills and valleys. Killing me every time I have to mow it.
I did fence edge mow yesterday with my Cub, prepping the big mow, and seriously, I am so tired of bouncing up and down on mower...
I shall not pay dozer to come and regrade it.
Having a 30hp tractor, what manageable implement should I get, to slowly regrade that lower level? I am in no rush, I can do small lots at a time, it's on my dime and my time.
I considered land plane but found a very good feedback on it and it is not appropriate tool.
As I can't "officially" grade wetland, I am looking at about 2.5 acre to flatten and, upper 3 acre won't hurt to be smoothed either.
Thank you for advice.

Hard to show it in pic but, you can see some of those uneven areas


 
   #2  

Sno

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I’d expect the soil type, moisture, and grass type to have a big effect on what works. I have had success on some bumpy areas with the rototiller set to just trim off the highest of the high spots. It is slow, and it took several passes over the summer, but worked well in the end.
 
   #3  

jeff9366

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Having a 30hp tractor, what manageable implement should I get to slowly regrade that lower level? I am in no rush, I can do small lots at a time, it's on my dime and my time.

If you want to save the grass you have, filling in the low areas with sand or top soil is about your only option. You would likely need several truckloads of fill. You can move and smooth the fill with tractor FEL. If you are looking for an excuse to buy a Box Blade, you have found it. A Box Blade will transport fill dirt short distances more efficiently than the FEL. A Box Blade on the TPH also serves as excellent counterbalance to heavy FEL lifts.

If you are willing to lose some grass from high areas a PTO-powered roto-tiller is the best option.


YOUR TOPIC IN T-B-N ARCHIVE:
smoothing pasture site tractorbynet.com site:www.tractorbynet.com
 
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   #4  

Slowpoke Slim

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Look at a "Harley Rake" or power rake (2 common names for same tool). Will only surface till and smooth, which it sounds like that's all you're looking for. You'll have to reseed and regrow your grass though.
 
   #5  

Redlands Okie

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All 3 post above are good ideas. The Harley Rake works really really well, but its pricy. Since you already have turf your going to have to be careful that whatever you dig with can do something with the root mass. The suggestions above will handle the roots pretty well. The tiller or rotor might actually help move and spread the roots around in small pieces which will start growing depending on the grass type.

Box blades, scrapers, rakes and similar setups can dig or remove the high spots pretty well but will leave the roots in clumps which are difficult to deal with.
 
   #6  

oosik

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Actually - the fields in your two pictures look pretty nice. Want it smoother - rent or purchase a Harley rake. Grind it up > smooth it out > replant.

Box blades, scrapers, rakes and similar implements may have a lot of difficulties dealing with the grass and grass roots.
 
   #7  

Egon

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If you want smooth you will have to go the cultivation and replant route.

It would take more than a few truck loads of dirt to even make a dent. The rake will make it look smooth with the grass fluff spread out but basic rough spots will still be there.
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#8  
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ukrkoz

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Auburn
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Pioneer 1000 EPS
Thank you.
Harley is too expensive
I already have very bad experience with box blade. I borrowed neighbor's tractor with it and, due to constantly increasing rear end weight, as it collects shaved soil, caused tractor to deep stuck in mud.
Pictures may look nice but reality is, it's hell of mow. The only way to show all imperfections is to take pic early am, when it's covered in frost, and camera does not get that. Take my word - it's bad.
Tiller, huh. So no one suggests rear blade....
Well, I'll have my hands on tiller soon enough. Same unfortunate neighbor, he's fixing driveshaft but, as soon as he's done, I can try it.
Problem I see is that tractor rear end will be going up and down, as it traverses high and low areas. And, to shave tops, you sorta need to go in straight line, right?
It's asking for trouble, I know that, but at this point, I do not care about grass. I'd rather reseed and harrow over it, got harrow.
After 2 ZTRs, the ONLY way I can mor eor less comfortably mow is riding a UTV and pulling gas powered flail. Even that makes my head disconnected from the shoulders in about an hour, and it takes more than that. And that's with UTV fully independent suspension with shock absorbers. Being 66 does not help.
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#9  
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ukrkoz

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Auburn
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Pioneer 1000 EPS
Here's maybe a better perspective on terrain.
And entire lower property tier is like that. Top is a bit better but still very bumpy.
 

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Gem99ultra

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Thank you.
Harley is too expensive
I already have very bad experience with box blade. I borrowed neighbor's tractor with it and, due to constantly increasing rear end weight, as it collects shaved soil, caused tractor to deep stuck in mud.
Pictures may look nice but reality is, it's hell of mow. The only way to show all imperfections is to take pic early am, when it's covered in frost, and camera does not get that. Take my word - it's bad.
Tiller, huh. So no one suggests rear blade....
Well, I'll have my hands on tiller soon enough. Same unfortunate neighbor, he's fixing driveshaft but, as soon as he's done, I can try it.
Problem I see is that tractor rear end will be going up and down, as it traverses high and low areas. And, to shave tops, you sorta need to go in straight line, right?
It's asking for trouble, I know that, but at this point, I do not care about grass. I'd rather reseed and harrow over it, got harrow.
After 2 ZTRs, the ONLY way I can mor eor less comfortably mow is riding a UTV and pulling gas powered flail. Even that makes my head disconnected from the shoulders in about an hour, and it takes more than that. And that's with UTV fully independent suspension with shock absorbers. Being 66 does not help.
Only a Billy goat could get that area cut down with any semblance of neat. I'm assuming that most/all of the large rocks are out? If it were me, I'd hit it with your harrow a couple of times, crisscrossing, then level it out with the tiller.

With the tiller, I'd break up the larger clods with the tiller not down too much, then again with the lid closed cutting it to 2"-3" to level it off. I recently leveled up our garden using that system and it worked fine for me. Not much work but with good results.
 
 
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