What implement best for turf grading with compact tractor?

[ukrkoz]

OK, so I finally have tractor. 30Hp compact. Loader and 3 point.
I live on 6 acre, 1/4 of it is wetland with puddles and mud.
Property is 2 levels. It's all grass, with some trees.
Upper level is more or less graded flat, just bumpy.
Lower level is like as if driving on lake waves. Small hills and valleys. Killing me every time I have to mow it.
I did fence edge mow yesterday with my Cub, prepping the big mow, and seriously, I am so tired of bouncing up and down on mower...
I shall not pay dozer to come and regrade it.
Having a 30hp tractor, what manageable implement should I get, to slowly regrade that lower level? I am in no rush, I can do small lots at a time, it's on my dime and my time.
I considered land plane but found a very good feedback on it and it is not appropriate tool.
As I can't "officially" grade wetland, I am looking at about 2.5 acre to flatten and, upper 3 acre won't hurt to be smoothed either.
Thank you for advice.

Hard to show it in pic but, you can see some of those uneven areas

20181224_094140_HDR.jpg

drive.google.com

20181224_094055.jpg

drive.google.com

 

[Sno]

I’d expect the soil type, moisture, and grass type to have a big effect on what works. I have had success on some bumpy areas with the rototiller set to just trim off the highest of the high spots. It is slow, and it took several passes over the summer, but worked well in the end.

 

[jeff9366]

Having a 30hp tractor, what manageable implement should I get to slowly regrade that lower level? I am in no rush, I can do small lots at a time, it's on my dime and my time.

If you want to save the grass you have, filling in the low areas with sand or top soil is about your only option. You would likely need several truckloads of fill. You can move and smooth the fill with tractor FEL. If you are looking for an excuse to buy a Box Blade, you have found it. A Box Blade will transport fill dirt short distances more efficiently than the FEL. A Box Blade on the TPH also serves as excellent counterbalance to heavy FEL lifts.

If you are willing to lose some grass from high areas a PTO-powered roto-tiller is the best option.


YOUR TOPIC IN T-B-N ARCHIVE:
smoothing pasture site tractorbynet.com site:www.tractorbynet.com

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Look at a "Harley Rake" or power rake (2 common names for same tool). Will only surface till and smooth, which it sounds like that's all you're looking for. You'll have to reseed and regrow your grass though.

 

[Redlands Okie]

All 3 post above are good ideas. The Harley Rake works really really well, but its pricy. Since you already have turf your going to have to be careful that whatever you dig with can do something with the root mass. The suggestions above will handle the roots pretty well. The tiller or rotor might actually help move and spread the roots around in small pieces which will start growing depending on the grass type.

Box blades, scrapers, rakes and similar setups can dig or remove the high spots pretty well but will leave the roots in clumps which are difficult to deal with.

 

[oosik]

Actually - the fields in your two pictures look pretty nice. Want it smoother - rent or purchase a Harley rake. Grind it up > smooth it out > replant.

Box blades, scrapers, rakes and similar implements may have a lot of difficulties dealing with the grass and grass roots.

 

[Egon]

If you want smooth you will have to go the cultivation and replant route.

It would take more than a few truck loads of dirt to even make a dent. The rake will make it look smooth with the grass fluff spread out but basic rough spots will still be there.

 

[ukrkoz]

Thank you.
Harley is too expensive
I already have very bad experience with box blade. I borrowed neighbor's tractor with it and, due to constantly increasing rear end weight, as it collects shaved soil, caused tractor to deep stuck in mud.
Pictures may look nice but reality is, it's hell of mow. The only way to show all imperfections is to take pic early am, when it's covered in frost, and camera does not get that. Take my word - it's bad.
Tiller, huh. So no one suggests rear blade....
Well, I'll have my hands on tiller soon enough. Same unfortunate neighbor, he's fixing driveshaft but, as soon as he's done, I can try it.
Problem I see is that tractor rear end will be going up and down, as it traverses high and low areas. And, to shave tops, you sorta need to go in straight line, right?
It's asking for trouble, I know that, but at this point, I do not care about grass. I'd rather reseed and harrow over it, got harrow.
After 2 ZTRs, the ONLY way I can mor eor less comfortably mow is riding a UTV and pulling gas powered flail. Even that makes my head disconnected from the shoulders in about an hour, and it takes more than that. And that's with UTV fully independent suspension with shock absorbers. Being 66 does not help.

 

[ukrkoz]

Here's maybe a better perspective on terrain.
And entire lower property tier is like that. Top is a bit better but still very bumpy.

 

[Gem99ultra]

Thank you.
Harley is too expensive
I already have very bad experience with box blade. I borrowed neighbor's tractor with it and, due to constantly increasing rear end weight, as it collects shaved soil, caused tractor to deep stuck in mud.
Pictures may look nice but reality is, it's hell of mow. The only way to show all imperfections is to take pic early am, when it's covered in frost, and camera does not get that. Take my word - it's bad.
Tiller, huh. So no one suggests rear blade....
Well, I'll have my hands on tiller soon enough. Same unfortunate neighbor, he's fixing driveshaft but, as soon as he's done, I can try it.
Problem I see is that tractor rear end will be going up and down, as it traverses high and low areas. And, to shave tops, you sorta need to go in straight line, right?
It's asking for trouble, I know that, but at this point, I do not care about grass. I'd rather reseed and harrow over it, got harrow.
After 2 ZTRs, the ONLY way I can mor eor less comfortably mow is riding a UTV and pulling gas powered flail. Even that makes my head disconnected from the shoulders in about an hour, and it takes more than that. And that's with UTV fully independent suspension with shock absorbers. Being 66 does not help.

Only a Billy goat could get that area cut down with any semblance of neat. I'm assuming that most/all of the large rocks are out? If it were me, I'd hit it with your harrow a couple of times, crisscrossing, then level it out with the tiller.

With the tiller, I'd break up the larger clods with the tiller not down too much, then again with the lid closed cutting it to 2"-3" to level it off. I recently leveled up our garden using that system and it worked fine for me. Not much work but with good results.

 

[npalen]

This calls for a special attachment design: (with tongue in cheek) Need a frame about 10 feet in length (3PH or pull type?)with a pair of gauge wheels on the rear end. A mounting arrangement in the middle of the length will attach a roto tiller with a very extended pto shaft.

Run the tool over the terrain shaving off the high spots with a blade behind the tiller dragging the dirt into the low spots eventually filling them after repeated use.

P.S. I realize that the above would probably be impractical to build, its just what comes to mind when thinking about the challenge.

 

[shooterdon]

I am far from expert. With all that grass, I envision a lot of clumping no matter what you use. If I were you, I would find the worst area of about an acre in size and spray it with round up. After the grass is killed, hit it with a tiller and chain harrow. Multiple passes should get you to a decent surface. Depending on your ground, a landscape rake to remove rocks might be a good idea too.

If that works, you can do other areas as you see fit and have the time.

 

[ukrkoz]

Geese did pretty good job this year too. They chose not to leave for winter and I had easy over a hundred of them feeding on the grass.

 

[ukrkoz]

Well, I'll give tiller a try. I'll practice on the flatter top level, it still has few hillocks, but in the lot back, out of sight. Pictures posted are, unfortunately, "curb appeal". If tiller works, I'll move down. If not, I'll consider going for broke and dozing it. I'll have too doze only about less than 2 acre as, legally, I can't touch 1.25 a of wet land. Will cost me about a thousand to pay someone with small dozer, maybe less. I'll report back, how tiller works.
Yes, I get the long rake design. Something has to skim the tips while staying more or less horizontal. Or, attachment will simply follow terrain.

 

[nybirdman]

As stated;you can't do anything until you kill the grass on the high spots.Box blade,tiller,rear blade will not cut through grass.
Kill,plow(middle buster,potato plow) move high spots to low spots with box blade ,reseed.

 

[Grapple guy]

OK, so I finally have tractor. 30Hp compact. Loader and 3 point.
I live on 6 acre, 1/4 of it is wetland with puddles and mud.
Property is 2 levels. It's all grass, with some trees.
Upper level is more or less graded flat, just bumpy.
Lower level is like as if driving on lake waves. Small hills and valleys. Killing me every time I have to mow it.
I did fence edge mow yesterday with my Cub, prepping the big mow, and seriously, I am so tired of bouncing up and down on mower...
I shall not pay dozer to come and regrade it.
Having a 30hp tractor, what manageable implement should I get, to slowly regrade that lower level? I am in no rush, I can do small lots at a time, it's on my dime and my time.
I considered land plane but found a very good feedback on it and it is not appropriate tool.
As I can't "officially" grade wetland, I am looking at about 2.5 acre to flatten and, upper 3 acre won't hurt to be smoothed either.
Thank you for advice.

Hard to show it in pic but, you can see some of those uneven areas

20181224_094140_HDR.jpg

drive.google.com

20181224_094055.jpg

drive.google.com

I had the same problem, what I was dealing with was just an extremely rough and bumpy area that I hit golf balls to and I built a set of gauge wheels for my roto tiller that set behind about 3 ft. and also took a ratchet strap and secured the rear flap closed, now it will cut the high spots and fills the low spots. I will probably seed tonight. I did have to put a live link in-line with the top link so it didn't lift the rototiller didn't just lift up right away, it was just to give me more control. Hope this helps

 

[Stonehaller]

I had a similar situation several years ago. After trying several half measures to fix it, I went all in. Roundup the grass to kill it all. Rototill high spots. Use boxblade and fill if necessary, to regrade so low areas drain properly. Nothing beats a Harley rake to finish grade and prep for seed. You could rent a skid steer with a Harley rake and finish grade the whole area in a weekend.

 

[Doc G]

OP: I faced exactly your situation a few years ago and have repeated this process on several 4-6 acre plots. Grassy/weedy areas that were terrible to mow, even required 4WD sometimes because of ruts left by previous property owner. I have a 32 HP tractor. What I did is similar to what has been suggested:

1.) Get a 3pt or pull-type sprayer. Kill with glyphosate. (My sprayer is electric 50 gals with a 12 foot boom. It does not take as long as you think to cover less than 10 acres, bumpiness notwithstanding.) You might have to do this twice a few weeks apart.

2.) Disc. One time I did the discing myself, another time hired a larger tractor operator with a bigger disc, but I could've done it all myself. Put weight on the disc plow if necessary so the ground really turns. There will still be some grass roots, not much you can do.

3.) Some box blade work to move dirt, but only in the worst spots.

4.) Chain harrow. I got mine from TSC, and attached additional thick steel pipes to it so it would weight more. I drove this around many times at fairly high speed. It broke up clumps and clods, pulled dirt from high to low, and smoothed. It also collects the worst grass root clumps. I pull it behind the box blade, with the blade height set to skim high spots. A good hard rain will also help.

[OPTIONAL]

5.) Spread fertilizer. I rented a fertilizer buggy from my feed store to pull with the tractor.

6.) Spread seed. Use a 3-pt seed slinger or hire out.

7.) Spray broadleaf weedkiller once the grass starts growing. (Remember the sprayer from step 1? Very handy!)

The result is not perfect, still bumpy in places but it's not a golf course. A FAR CRY better than it used to be. The grass was so thick it bogged down the mower last fall; probably a little more work and I could hay it.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I Too VOTE Harley Rake. Although smaller. This is the old model that had TWO ROLLERS AND S TINES. Too expensive to make that way anymore. If you have ever used an Electric Planer over a hand one, well that's like the Harley, over a fixed rake.

BUT, For the Money, One of those spring tooth Rakes is GREAT. Bit with gauge wheels.

 

[Cataclysm]

A power (Harley) rake is the answer. Rent one or pay someone with one on a skid steer. I have a 6' PTO driven power rake I run off the back of my 55hp tractor. There is nothing equal to smooth grassed areas. No need to re-seed. The power rake will distribute the grass roots and it will re-grow pretty fast.