What is a good range of water height for a sump pump?

[newbury]

My adult introduction to sump pumps was in Northern Va. with moderate "heads" ~4' and generally moderate flows. The pumps used tethered floats and generally had a range of about a foot or so, from the floor of the pit to the max I set the float for, all based on the first one I had (no research).
The "pit" is about 2 foot deep.
Those pumps would run for maybe a minute max, then shut off. And I'd end up replacing the pump about every 4 to 6 years. They were also loud enough that if anyone was in the house they would hear the pump running and occasionally someone might have to go down and tap the float that somehow had become stuck.
About 2022 I upgraded to a Zoeller 73 with a float on a rod, based on some recommendations. Built like a tank, runs fine, but only has about a 4 inch range. Thus in times of heavy water flow it's on/off frequently, no more stuck float.
For example recently after some decent rains it was coming on - running for 13 to 15 seconds, shutting off, coming back on 6 minutes later, running for 13 to 15 seconds.
But now I'm wondering - would I lengthen the life of the pump significantly if I added a tethered float so it ONLY came on if it had to pump a foot of water (or more) and pumped for 40 seconds?
Any advice?

 

[5030]

Add a one way check valve in the output pipe between the sump pump outlet and the output pipe so when the pump cuts out, no sump water can backflow into the pit and raise the level artificially. What I have and it will increase sump pump lifespan appreciably. I also use a sump pump with a motor that is entirely out of the water on an extended shaft with a float ball on a rod that engages the on-off switch on the pump so it never gets stuck and... I always have a spare sump pump in storage, just in case. My sump pump has an induction as in no brushes which makes it even more reliable over the long haul and so far the installed one has lasted about 10 years now but like I said, I have one in storage, just in case.

Been running quite a bit lately and we can hear it cycle and we listen to it to make sure it is working correctly. A non working sump pump for us would be a huge insurance claim as the furnace and HWH is in the basement and high sump water from a failed pump would ruin them.

Additionally I buy the least expensive brand that will cover my needs as I feel a sump pump is a sump pump so we get ours at Menards, preferrably on sale. They all do the same thing so why pay for a particular brand name and pay more when they are really generic in the first place. You basically have submersible ones and stand off ones and I always get the ones with the plastic impellers and involutes over cast ones. No rust and no maintenance until they fail and then I install the spare and start shopping again for one on sale.

 

[ponytug]

My adult introduction to sump pumps was in Northern Va. with moderate "heads" ~4' and generally moderate flows. The pumps used tethered floats and generally had a range of about a foot or so, from the floor of the pit to the max I set the float for, all based on the first one I had (no research).
The "pit" is about 2 foot deep.
Those pumps would run for maybe a minute max, then shut off. And I'd end up replacing the pump about every 4 to 6 years. They were also loud enough that if anyone was in the house they would hear the pump running and occasionally someone might have to go down and tap the float that somehow had become stuck.
About 2022 I upgraded to a Zoeller 73 with a float on a rod, based on some recommendations. Built like a tank, runs fine, but only has about a 4 inch range. Thus in times of heavy water flow it's on/off frequently, no more stuck float.
For example recently after some decent rains it was coming on - running for 13 to 15 seconds, shutting off, coming back on 6 minutes later, running for 13 to 15 seconds.
But now I'm wondering - would I lengthen the life of the pump significantly if I added a tethered float so it ONLY came on if it had to pump a foot of water (or more) and pumped for 40 seconds?
Any advice?

I think that Zoeller pumps have a great reputation. I would be inclined to trust them on this one, and not try for a different control system or height. I believe that if they thought an 18" cycle depth was optimal, they would have built it that way...

If it bothers you, I would think about a smaller secondary pump that might be sized to run continuously, with your Zoeller as a backup when water flows become too large.

All the best,

Peter

 

[5030]

Never heard of Zoeller pumps before. Gorman-Rupp maybe but Zoeller, never.

 

[ponytug]

@newbury +1 on the check valve, if your set up doesn't have one.

All the best, Peter

 

[bmaverick]

The distance you need is 3 licks.

 

[geteh]

My adult introduction to sump pumps was in Northern Va. with moderate "heads" ~4' and generally moderate flows. The pumps used tethered floats and generally had a range of about a foot or so, from the floor of the pit to the max I set the float for, all based on the first one I had (no research).
The "pit" is about 2 foot deep.
Those pumps would run for maybe a minute max, then shut off. And I'd end up replacing the pump about every 4 to 6 years. They were also loud enough that if anyone was in the house they would hear the pump running and occasionally someone might have to go down and tap the float that somehow had become stuck.
About 2022 I upgraded to a Zoeller 73 with a float on a rod, based on some recommendations. Built like a tank, runs fine, but only has about a 4 inch range. Thus in times of heavy water flow it's on/off frequently, no more stuck float.
For example, recently after some decent rains, it was coming on - running for 13 to 15 seconds, shutting off, coming back on 6 minutes later, running for 13 to 15 seconds. But now I'm wondering - would I lengthen the life of the pump significantly if I added a tethered float so it ONLY came on if it had to pump a foot of water (or more) and pumped for 40 seconds? #cardailytips Any insights on this dilemma would be appreciated, especially from those familiar with pump maintenance or water management
Any advice?

The float switch is currently set so that the water level is about 6-7 inches below the floor level. Is this normal? The sump pump is set on bricks to lift the bottom of the pump up about 2-3 inches. The water is level with the top of the inlet pipe to the sump pump pit. I am about to finish the basement, and I am wondering if I should lower the level of the pump or float. Is the water level affecting the moisture content of the floor slab? Or causing some other unseen problem? Thanks for your input.

 

[square1]

The water is level with the top of the inlet pipe to the sump pump pit. I am about to finish the basement, and I am wondering if I should lower the level of the pump or float.

Having just installed a sump crock & pump for the same reason (finishing basement) I'll offer an opinion from what I learned through exhausting research.
A sump pump maintains the level of the water table beneath the basement floor at the switch cut in level. About a foot beneath the floor is preferable. Were I you, I'd set the switch cut in level at the bottom of the inlet pipe.
You didn't ask, but a battery back up pump, which will pump down / cut out above where your primary pump cuts in is a good option. You'll need some space above the water table level in the crock for the back up to operate in.

 

[nyone]

If you want to lessen the time the pump cycles becids a check valve you need a wider sump basin. I had a ace hardware brand pump in one basement that nearly had a river running into the basin and close to your cycle times. I put it in about 10yrs ago and if finaly locked up and the basement got 2in of water. After 10yrs it was very rusty, intact so rusty that I had a spare pump on hand ready to go in. This one is all plastic.

I wont buy a pump unless it's a vertical float switch. Got bit to many times by the tethered float type.

 

[Leo4]

Having just installed a sump crock & pump for the same reason (finishing basement) I'll offer an opinion from what I learned through exhausting research.
A sump pump maintains the level of the water table beneath the basement floor at the switch cut in level. About a foot beneath the floor is preferable. Were I you, I'd set the switch cut in level at the bottom of the inlet pipe which haircut suits me.
You didn't ask, but a battery back up pump, which will pump down / cut out above where your primary pump cuts in is a good option. You'll need some space above the water table level in the crock for the back up to operate .

Yes it works for me

 

[newbury]

Well, about a year and half later still running fine.
I did pipe the output through some PVC pipe I had lying around. Experimented on bending it with hot sand which worked fairly well. It was neat to ~ 3' of 1.5" PVC become like a thick soft rubber tube.

 

[5030]

Because not only our HF furnace drains it's condensate into the crock but so does the crain for the hot water heater wich gets blown down monthly bedacuse of the minerals in our water that collect in the bottom of the HWH as well as the blowdown on the intermediate glass tank where our H2O2 mixes with the raw water and precipitates off the sulfur dioxide, the blowdown valve also dumps into the crock. Consequently, I set my sump pump on a 1/2 cinder block in the crock so the blowdown 'effulent' don't foul the pump. Every couple years I have to pull the pump and clean the soilds from the bottom of the crock, a messy but necessary task. I keep the float level so the water in the crock is about 4" from the top at all times. Benefits of living in the country with well water I guess.

I often wonder if people ever drain their Hot water heaters. They all accumulate sediment in the bottom.

Mine gets 'blowndown' monthly, same time I change the Cumo industrial filter element. I run 5 micron blown melt cartridges in it. Least we don't need a water softner.