Egon
Epic Contributor
As has been stated you may have a gas in your water. Check the faucet with a match.
What is causing air in house water lines?
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jyoutz
Super Member
Are you talking about natural gas? That doesn’t seem like a harmless thing to have in drinking water.
HammerGrips
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Have you tried lighting it? We had some natural gas in our water and if you had a lighter close to the aerator when you turned on the faucet, it would flare up.
woody
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We had air at one faucet, the one in the kitchen and I finally found where it was leaking in the very back of the cabnet after the water was turned off it would leak down and draw air in the faucet so when we turned the water on we would get a burst of air. I replaced the faucet and all is good.
Your tank is air logged. Since you have a hydro-pneumatic tank (air over water), you have to keep an air space up in the tank. For your system, it is accomplished by using a bleeder system.
A bleeder system usually has 4 parts. The bleeder in the well, which is usually just a rubber flapper that closes when pressure is applied, and relaxes when the pump shuts off. It opens when the pump is off and drains the water, usually placed at the first coupling 20 ft down into the well. It can also be a brass bleeder with a ball check, or simply a drilled hole that always leaks a little.
There is a check valve between the well and the tank, and then a snifter valve to let air in. And finally an air control on the tank (air release).
When the pump is running the bleeder is held shut by pressure. When the pump shuts off, the bleeder relaxes and the water can drain out. The check valve keeps the water in the tank from back-feeding into the well, and the snifter valve releases the vacuum and lets air into the line as it's draining. The snifter valve can be on the check valve body, which is called a "tapped" check valve. When the pump next starts this section of piping is filled with air. The air gets forced to the tank, where it goes to the top to keep the air head maintained. The air release on the side of the tank has a little float, when too much air gets into the tank the float drops and lets the excess air out.
Sounds like your air release (avc) is not working right.
Very common system here (SE Texas).
A bleeder system usually has 4 parts. The bleeder in the well, which is usually just a rubber flapper that closes when pressure is applied, and relaxes when the pump shuts off. It opens when the pump is off and drains the water, usually placed at the first coupling 20 ft down into the well. It can also be a brass bleeder with a ball check, or simply a drilled hole that always leaks a little.
There is a check valve between the well and the tank, and then a snifter valve to let air in. And finally an air control on the tank (air release).
When the pump is running the bleeder is held shut by pressure. When the pump shuts off, the bleeder relaxes and the water can drain out. The check valve keeps the water in the tank from back-feeding into the well, and the snifter valve releases the vacuum and lets air into the line as it's draining. The snifter valve can be on the check valve body, which is called a "tapped" check valve. When the pump next starts this section of piping is filled with air. The air gets forced to the tank, where it goes to the top to keep the air head maintained. The air release on the side of the tank has a little float, when too much air gets into the tank the float drops and lets the excess air out.
Sounds like your air release (avc) is not working right.
Very common system here (SE Texas).
part-time-Farmer-NC
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I agree with "The Goose". On the holding tank there is a tire pressure looking stem. If you depress that and water comes out the bladder is ruptured and time for a new tank.
I had heard it referred to as water logged, same principle I guess as the air logged description.
I had heard it referred to as water logged, same principle I guess as the air logged description.
Well worded and probably correct. In the Northeast, we've been captive air tanks for a long time, but when I was a kid, we still had galvanized tanks and air releases.
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Valveman
Platinum Member
No matter how the air or gas gets into a regular hydro type tank, a good AVC will let out the excess.
KUBOTA OWNER
New member
Do you have a electric water heater. I replaced my electric water heater that was leaking with a Richmond unit from Menards. For about 6 or 8 months had lots and lots of air in the system. But only in the hot water. I even called Richmond. I was sure that the heating element was causing it to cavate and produce air. You could even hear it when the system would be heating. Richmond blew me off and said it was my hard water!! I have a water softener too.
But the one thing the Richmond rep. told me is that they started using stainless heating elements. So people would not burn them out on a "dry fire" I really think it took a while for the element to build up a little calcium and not work as efficiently. and then the noise and air went away but not until about 6-8 months later.
But the one thing the Richmond rep. told me is that they started using stainless heating elements. So people would not burn them out on a "dry fire" I really think it took a while for the element to build up a little calcium and not work as efficiently. and then the noise and air went away but not until about 6-8 months later.
ponytug
Super Member
You might actually have been generating hydrogen from the anode. When was the last time that you pulled your anode to check if it was clean and still had material on it?
Personally, I only use powered anodes as pulling anodes is just an awkward job for a part that needs to be checked, if not replaced annually. Your water heater will last a lot longer if the anode is in good shape as it mostly or completely stops the corrosion of the tank.
All the best,
Peter