Here's what I have for my 10-acre, flat, 30 almond trees near center of the parcel, 3/4-acre landscape, about 7 acres of natural vegetation (=weeds):
Kubota B7510HST (21 HP engine, ~16HP PTO, hydrostatic transmission) with LA302 front end loader (FEL)- $10,000 for the tractor, $2600 for the FEL last May. Weighs about 1900 lb with FEL attached.
4-ft box KK boxblade from TSC ($375)
4-ft KK rotary mower (brush hog) from TSC ($675)
4-ft Yanmar RS1200 rototiller from local grey market tractor dealer ($300)
Huskee lawn tractor, 18HP engine with hydrostatic transmission, 42" mower, from TSC ($1000 plus $180 for 3-year service contract)
The brush hog takes care of the weed mowing and the Huskee does the lawn and the orchard. Generally speaking, 4-ft wide implements are right-sized for a parcel as small as 5-10 acres. It takes me all day to mow my weeds with the brush hog. But I mow slow, in low gear, and keep the FEL bucket near the ground to intercept any debris that I may have missed in my site inspection.
The
B7510 has a second PTO shaft that will accept a mid-mount mower (MMM) for lawns, but I couldn't justify the cost of the MMM (IIRC, over $2K). Also my tractor came as a package with ag tires which tear up a lawn. I would have to spend upwards of $1K to get wheels with turf tires if I want to used the tractor on the lawn. Hence, the Huskee purchase.
I'll probably get a PTO-driven post hole digger (PHD) next year when I replace about 1/4 mile of farm fence. I looked at hydraulic PHDs, but they're about 3X more expensive than the PTO-driven type and my B7510HST can supply only about 4.7 gal/min of hydraulic flow at it's auxiliary port. That's marginal for even the smallest hydraulic PHD.
The other problem I have is with the up-down range on the 3-point hitch being somewhat limited. This is a concern for implements like PHDs. Larger tractors don't have this problem as bad.
These problem areas are things to be concerned about when making a tractor purchase. You may have to up-scale to a larger machine.