facereader
New member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2014
- Messages
- 5
- Location
- Mississauga, ON
- Tractor
- Montgomery Ward Simplicity Garden Tractor Snowblower SIM-990214
I have a small engine shop for the last 17 years in Mississauga, Ontario, Canada.I have big pond built in 1995 (2 acres) with a long story, condensed version, my major spring actually reversed when pond got full after 2 years. So I pumped the water out and brought in an excavator to dig out the spring and pack it with bentonite to seal it. I was not willing to wait another 2 years to find out if the fixed worked, and I had the pump so I ran roughly 700 feet of 2” black plastic water line from a seasonal creek on my property and pumped it full. Victory!..Sort of. The natural head on the remaining springs is about 3’ below the overflow. Each year I “top it off” in the spring. I rigged a 6.5 gallon Northern Tool generator tank so the pump wiii run roughly 50+ hours on fill up. I change the oil every 100 hours using 10-30 syn-blend, with no particular brand loyalty. By my rough calculations I am approaching 6000 hours on a Honda GX 120. It still starts on one pull, but it does feel like it is starting to lose compression and uses a little oil. I dropped a note to Honda as a testimonial, and heard…crickets. My biggest source of problems over the years has been contaminated fuel. for the last 6 years I have been purchasing non ethanol rec-fuel in a Tractor Supply 50gallon tank that I rigged for easy loading into my pickup. I have a water removing filter on the tank. That had solved the problem until this 76 year old goofball somehow left the fill cap off the “day” tank, and it rained. I drained the bottom of the tank and but I would still occasionally have the motor quit on me. I had added some Stabil Marine I had on the shelf to help purge the water. I had tilted the tank so the gravity feed was not the low point and that seemed to solve it. When I broke down my set up this fall, I set up the tank back in my shop so that the feed was the low point and drained fuel into a glass jar. The photo shows what I got. Maybe the Stabil was out of date, but it was definitely not impressive. View attachment 1970596
We have two clear seasons, thus, fuel storage related issues are common.
We consider Stabil a hoax from experience alone.
Theoretically, fuel stabilizers have two alleged functions.
1. These should bind to the highly volatile = explosive components of gasoline and not let those evaporate out of the fuel storage or equipment fuel tank through the gas caps - all of which are designed to be vented. This would enable old gas to start an engine, according to Stabil's claim, for two years, if mixed in the right amount. We have yet to see any two year old gas start an engine. Leave your lawnmower in the sun in the hot humid months, and the engine will not start after seven, even lesser number of days, even if the fuel stabilizer was added right away. Actually, the gas will turn orange with or without the stabilizer.
2. There is the myth of fuel stabilizers preventing the heavy chain hydrocarbons, collectively called varnish, from settling out of gas in long duration storage especially inside carburetors. Absolute nonsense. 95-98% of our work is overhauling/restoring carburetors. This myth is also promoted by many small engine equipment manufacturers. We sincerely believe that every single manufacturer is a crook, including Honda, and they wish that the carburetor gum up as soon as possible, owners break the recoil starters, and burn the electric starters. All these are parts sales. A $2-5 genuine carburetor at the the factory gate sells for at least $100 in Canada. Honda puts stickers on its snow blowers to turn off power switch first, then the fuel cut off valve. Really!
The only solution to prevent carburetor gumming is to install a fuel cut off valve, and turn fuel off after EVERY SINGLE USE. The engine will die in max two minutes. At the end of the season, remove all fuel in gas tank with a siphon (or burn it by running the engine till it dies); crack open drain bolt on the carburetor fuel bowl to drain all gas in carb and fuel line; snug drain bolt; close fuel valve so that any old gas remaining in the tank stays in the tank.
WATER IN FUEL:
We have recovered up to a liter of water from a 5 litre or one US gallon fuel canister. Ethanol is a pure alcohol. It mixes readily with water in air in tank, then this water+ethanol mix interacts with gas, and creates an acidic gel that corrodes carburetor metal. If water is in excess than what the ethanol can absorb, or fuel is ethanol free, the free water will go to the bottom of the tank.
There is a green colored plastic funnel that has a filter in the middle. I tested it. Water does not go past this filter. The method is slow.
Or, once you have removed the water by decanting it, and see no water at the bottom of the tank, shake the tank. If the fuel turns cloudy, water is mixed with gas. No choice but to discard it. Use it, and your engine should suddenly stop again and again.