What kind of welder should I buy?

[gemini5362]

Eddie all of the safety films I have ever seen consider 110v ac house current as the most dangerous voltage of all. Most people dont worry about it and it has plenty of power to kill. Unlike the old days of fuses. Breakers are not an instantaneous trip. A fuse can open up at the rated value in as little as a half cycle of power for a fast blow fuse. A circuit breaker takes something like 2 times the rated current to blow quickly and that is still over a few cycle. I think your advice about getting help was good I would make it a bit stronger. If you dont know exactly what you are doing then hire someone.
The poster that talked about 15 Milliamps being able to kill you was right on the money. It takes almost no current to kill you depending on conditions. I almost had a lab partner killed in college. We were working on a ac radio. He grabbed a wire in each hand and somehow got the end where the insullation was stripped off. The only thing that saved him was when the current hit him his hands jerked together and the current went through his thumbs.


Eddie I noticed you were talking about 12/2 and 10/2 wire. I am assuming you were talking with a ground ?

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks for the info. I've been shocked too many times to count, but it's not something I try to do. Just seem sto happen. Lately, I've been zapped about twice a week on exposed wires in the house I'm building. They are sticking out of the walls in different areas as they are getting wired up, and I seem to find them the hard way. hahaha

When I said 12/2 and 10/2, I'm refering to a Romex type house wire. The ground wire is included and not counted in the second number.

Eddie

 

[SnowRidge]

Thanks for the info. I've been shocked too many times to count, but it's not something I try to do. Just seem sto happen. Lately, I've been zapped about twice a week on exposed wires in the house I'm building. They are sticking out of the walls in different areas as they are getting wired up, and I seem to find them the hard way. hahaha

Do I understand correctly? You are wiring your house with the power actually applied to the unconnected wires? You can't be serious. That is extremely dangerous to you and anyone who might happen to be around.

Please rethink what you are doing.

 

[EddieWalker]

Nope, I'm not wiring this house, just working along the electricians. When you get different trades working at the same time, things get bumped into. It's not a big deal, but it does make me jump when it happens. LOL

Eddie

 

[schmism]

There is a special "shop" provision of the NEC that address welders or other high current high voltage "speciality" tools.

Were it can be reasonably assumed that only one of the device is used at one time, then you can have multipul 30 amp drops on the same run, otherwise they all have to be point of use end run.

(i confess ididnt read through the entire thread) but like others said

220v mig is nice, but a 110v unit can be made to work for most normal stuff.

Hobart and Miller are the same company these days, in the past they were the same innards, but sence ITW bought them, i think they had them focus Hobart on more hobby market (cheeper price) than the miller brand which means the innards may be diffrent these days.

I have my eye on a millar 210 myself. id like the MM250 with more duty cycle, seems they have "significant" diffrent innards.... but hard to justify the extra $$$ for just a hobby shop guy....

 

[Lynkage]

This is what I just picked up.


I got a pretty desent deal. 2 80cf 75/25 bottles, 44lb .035 spool of wire a Miller elite autoshade all for 2800 inc tax

 

[sugarmaple]

I have had an old Hobart 220 mig that works great but is frustrating outside because of the gas issue. So I picked up a Lincoln 250 amp inverter welder for stick and it has the smoothest arc I've ever seen or felt in my limited experience. Plus, it is very portable and easy to power up almost anywhere. Thermal Arc makes a very complete and relatively inexpensive unit, and the Millers, if price is any indication appear to be the cream of the crop with the ac/dc Dynasty going for 3500 or so in the 200A category. The dc only Maxstar is quite a bit less.The Thermal Arc seems to go under 2000, and seems to have a happy bunch of users.
Finally, be aware that a machine needs to have it's data plate in order to obtain service. The voice of experience urges all to be cautious on Ebay in this regard.

 

[Stampeder]

Loogie:

You are getting some good advice here. So here's my two cents as well.
First, I come from a family of welders. My dad was the welding foreman for many years in a shipyard. My brother was a welder and later a superintendant in a paper mill. Both told me to start with Oxy/Acetylene.
It will take a little practice but welding is an art/skill.
I have an Oxy/Acetylene outfit (Smith), a 165 amp Harbour freight gas mig, and a Lincoln tombstone (had this for over 30 years). I am going to buy a Miller Bobcat 250 as I have 15.5 acres and lots of pipe fencing to finish building.
The gas unit will get you started and you will always be using it. Cutting pipe, plate steel, etc is always easier with a torch anyway.
Go 220 not 110....after more than 30 years of it I have never regretted going with a 220 welder.
Finally, you will find like most of us that you will wind up with several welders. Each unit has it's strength an weaknesses hence the use for each type.

Good Luck.

 

[gemini5362]

Loogie:

You are getting some good advice here. So here's my two cents as well.
First, I come from a family of welders. My dad was the welding foreman for many years in a shipyard. My brother was a welder and later a superintendant in a paper mill. Both told me to start with Oxy/Acetylene.
It will take a little practice but welding is an art/skill.
I have an Oxy/Acetylene outfit (Smith), a 165 amp Harbour freight gas mig, and a Lincoln tombstone (had this for over 30 years). I am going to buy a Miller Bobcat 250 as I have 15.5 acres and lots of pipe fencing to finish building.
The gas unit will get you started and you will always be using it. Cutting pipe, plate steel, etc is always easier with a torch anyway.
Go 220 not 110....after more than 30 years of it I have never regretted going with a 220 welder.
Finally, you will find like most of us that you will wind up with several welders. Each unit has it's strength an weaknesses hence the use for each type.

Good Luck.

Very good advice. I would like to ask a couple of questions. Using a torch to cut pipe might be an easy way to do it, is it easier than using one of the cheap band saws that harbor freight sells. They are less than 200 dollars and to me they are very easy and a lot better cut than us rank amateurs could ever hope to get with a cutting torch. My friends who have more money for welding toys tell me that the easiest and best way to cut plate is with a plasma cutter. ( which is on my christmas list by the way) Plasma cutters are still pretty expensive but are getting cheaper.
and finally a good old fashioned cut off saw is a pretty cheap and quick way to cut pipe and angle etc. Why do you feel that a cutting torch is better than the methods I have mentioned above. I do realize that the plasma cutter due to the price is not going to be available to most of us. But the band saw is under 200 and the cut off saw can be bought for under 100

 

[DonT-B7500]

I just purchased one of the $200 saws from TSC and am very pleased, 2 1/2 pipe in about 1min, 3" heavy angle in 2-3, clean square cuts, no burning mess, couldn't be more pleased. I also found a link to a homemade blade cooling system that says will greatly extend the blade life, i've been wanting to add one of these to my drill press for years but now I tink i'll set it up for both pieces