What NOT TO do!!

[gemini5362]

See - here's the problem. Either you still haven't read the entire topic, or you simply don't understand what you've read. In http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1022098-post45.html Dan's exact words were "I know I what was doing the second time around was too much for a normal loader. "

I think this particular argument should end now.

//greg//

I actually have read the entire topic what i did do was misread what dan said in that post. I have asked him to clarify what he meant. and if you would like this arguement to end you can quite responding to my posts if you like. I kind of liked it better when I got out of the navy and went to work as a civilian tech reps where I told chiefs what to do.

 

[thingy]

Greg,my man,huh? thingy

 

[fishmasterdan]

Sorry guy There has been several bad storms up here in WA and I have had over 100 trees fall across my road not to mention my fence had to replaced twice now in 2 different sections, so I have not been following along here.


Update. To clear some things up. I may have confused a few people here.

The first time I broke the loader I was a pretty new user of small tractors and was unaware of the abuse I has giving it, however when the loader broke it was obvious that there was a bad weld because there was rust under a weld, but I cannot blame the weld whole heartedly.

The second time I was pusing some mud/dirt. I DID NOT OVERSTRESS the loader the second time. IT broke because the metal is just to thin that supports the bucket tilt ram. As a matter of fact there is a PSI meter on the hydraulics for the loader and I know the relief kicks in at 1900 to 2000 psi that is where it maxs out lift things.
The loader will pick up approx 900lbs (my neighbor had a fully built engine and the loader really stressed picking it up and it was approx 900 lbs).


I appreciate all the comments on this topic If anything good comes out of this and people are reading the thread please look carefully at the loader you are buying. I was told mine was better than the Jinma loader's.....


I am going to have a real metal fabricator fix my loader for me (I just fixed some wiring in his house so he owe's me ). It wont cost me anything.

I have a temp fix on there now but if you would like some pictures let me know. I cannot get a picture of the break but if you look in the original pictures it is the same thing.

 

[greg_g]

The loader will pick up approx 900lbs (my neighbor had a fully built engine and the loader really stressed picking it up and it was approx 900 lbs).

The title of your topic is beginning to become more and more appropriate. I'm now starting to see why you over-estimated the capability of this loader. See Vintage Hot Rods & Classic Cars :: Resources for people restoring hot rods including classifieds, how-to's, more.

In the larger scheme of things though, that's not a bad thing. It's just one of the more expensive lessons at the School of Hard Knocks. Actually learning from one's mistakes is (hopefully) the end product.

//greg//

 

[thingy]

Rust under a fillit weld,sounds like cold lap,on one of those mig welds that every one is crazy about,if you have a weld failing on something as simple to weld as a small tractor loader,it is indeed the welds fault,welds shouldn't fail first,,the material should,,maybe the weld didn't fail first,and cause this,,can't tell from pictures,,but if you got rust under a weld leg than it is either cracked or not fused to base metal,and its been that way for a while,,you can get a lot of lack of fusion with short circuiting mig,if not done right,,,can't tell what it was welded with,,flux core and stick are less prone to have these types problems. Ask the guy who is going to fix it for you about this,,,if it was the welds failing that caused this,,there could be a case against loader seller/manufactor,,despite what all the other people have been saying.
There are ways to check for cracks on the other welds,,,but unless you have the stuff than that probably won't happen,dye penatrant,is a good way,,,,you can clean the welds of paint and look real good,,maybe with a magnifyer,,,look real close at the edges of the welds where they tie into[or not],base metal,,,thingy

 

[fishmasterdan]

Greg;
I appreciate your comments. However I am beginning to think that you might see smaller tractors as somewhat of a toy.
They are tractors, built to work. If they cannot handle doing any work than why have one?? I am in the construction industry and I see all kinds of equiptment every day that is worked hard and hardly ever broken. So yes I do expect them to be worked and not babied like an rc airplane. Lifting something that is at the tractors capacity should be well within the "working range".

 

[greg_g]

However I am beginning to think that you might see smaller tractors as somewhat of a toy.

There is some truth in that statement. I too went through the school of hard knocks determining what sized tractor and implements were the right size/power/weight/capacity for jobs I expected them to do.

They are tractors, built to work. If they cannot handle doing any work than why have one??

If you're truly in the construction industry Dan, then you'll also be familiar with another statement; use the right tool for the job. Yes, the dealer most likely put not enough loader on too much tractor. After one failure, I would have thought you were starting to get the hint. After a second failure, I would have hoped the point actually hit home.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

Being in the construction industry.. then you should know that there is a bit of difference from an industrial machine, and an economy ag machine.

In many cases where there is a common model between ag and industrial lines.. the industrial model is beefed up.. I.E. different drivetrain.. axles.. etc..

I wouldn't be viewing any chinese tractor in the same light as a piece of heavy equipment, int he terms of how much i could abuse it before it broke...

Not badmouthing the chinese tractors.. however they are a far cry from industrial equipment..

Just because it has a diesel engine and a front blade don't make it a caterpillar bull dozer...

Soundguy

Greg;
I They are tractors, built to work. If they cannot handle doing any work than why have one?? I am in the construction industry and I see all kinds of equiptment every day that is worked hard and hardly ever broken. So yes I do expect them to be worked and not babied like an rc airplane. Lifting something that is at the tractors capacity should be well within the "working range".

 

[gemini5362]

Dan I am glad you have someone to fix it for you for free. That is a much better option than the ones I gave you. It sounds like you are happy with the tractor and the loaders hydraulics. If you can get the fabricator to repair with heavier material that will be good. I would have him check to make sure there are not any other weak points that will give you problem. Good luck with the loader and let us know how it comes out.

 

[Gerifalte]

So which Coldwater lift rating were you talking about specifically? There's bucket lift capacity and a breakaway lift capacity. Whereas the ZL-20 is rated at 875# lift, the breakaway is 2200#. You said the Coldwater was only 1000#s. Since they don't seem to list any specs on their website, perhaps you can clarify. If in fact that particular Coldwater loader has a breakaway lift rating of only half a ton, it most certainly doesn't belong on anything stouter than a SCUT.

//greg//

Hi Greg,

I am sorry it took me so long to get back to you.

I believe the 1000lb rate I was given by the dealer was the lift capacity. I don't know the breakaway capacity though.

After looking at the original pictures, I noticed my loader has an extra set of triangular pieces of steel welded on top of the section that broke on fishmasterdan's loader. I bought the tractor recently (about 2 months ago) so perhaps they "fixed" that section after accidents like fishmasterdan were reported??