What size boards should I cut on saw mill?

[N80]

Sounds like you have a good plan...
FWIW, B&B siding boards can be installed wet/green as long as the battens are nailed in the center so the siding can "move" under them without splitting as the boards shrink...

That is simple but brilliant.

 

[2manyrocks]

Older barns were sided with sawn boards that weren't planed. The ones on my 1930s era barn are about 1/2 thick. If you intend to use this lumber for barn siding, the most efficient thing is to cut them to roughly the thickness you want but allow for some shrinkage. They will shrink less in thickness than in width.

Fine homebuilding has a detailed how to for board and batten siding.

 

[Egon]

consider laying out the cutting sequence so the flat sawn are thinner and the quarter/rift sawn contain some four inch nominal sizes and some deeper two inch boards.

 

[2manyrocks]

Three other installation details for board/batten. First one is to make the roof overhang sufficient to give the sidewalls adequate protection. The siding that has held up the best on my barn is the siding that is most protected by roof overhangs. Second, I'd strongly suggest having gutters so rain is being carried away from your building and doesn't splash back up onto the siding. The third detail is to bevel the drip edge of the siding. Some would also recommend treating the siding or at least the cut edges with preservative.

 

[shooterdon]

For siding a barn or shed, rough sawn seems to make more sense. There are time and material savings from not planing boards thinner, and the rough sawn surface should help paint/stain adhesion.

 

[plowhog]

I've got a big pile of 1x1 and 1x2 stickers.

I was making my own stickers on my sawmill. Then I read about not-fully-dry stickers staining the wood they were used on.

Now, for my best woods (oak, madrone), I use furring strips from Lowe's. IIRC, an 8 foot furring strip is a little over a dollar. So for about $10 I can sticker a whole pile of slabs, and not worry about accidentally staining them.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Without a doubt, I'd have them milled at 5/4", and maybe a few 8/4 if I ever thought I'd need any.

SR

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Milling out stickers is VERY easy to do, and it's good practice with your mill, plus it lets you know that everything is dialed in nicely!

Then bundle them up and they will be dry enough to use in a month or so, the outer ones in a couple weeks or even less,

I use pine or aspen and as long as they are dry I've never had one problem with them!

It's a good use for those 4' long pieces out of crooked tree's or low grade top logs.

SR

 

[Jstpssng]

That is simple but brilliant.

Yes! I had heard before to only put one row of nails into green batts, but until his post I always thought they meant nail 1 side, and do the other when it's seasoned.

 

[bindian]

I cut my hardwoods in 3 inch slabs then run them in an ad on Craigslist.

I sticker fresh cut pine on fresh cut stickers. I have not seen dried pine stickers leave anything on Red Oak slabs.

White Oak, around here are prized for trailer board. Full and nominal size 2x6s and 2x8s.

All this is for sale. For myself, I have a wide selection of odds and ends. For a specific project, I cut what I need and air dry them.

No matter what you saw, customers will ask for( or you will need) something you don't have.

My best sellers that sell themselves are full size 8 foot 1x12s and nominal size 12 foot 2x6s in SYP.
The 1x12s are used a lot by bee hive builders and the 2x6s are the most common rafter size and length. They sell like hotcakes here.

Hardwood for shelves should be thicker for planing. At least a quarter inch thicker. Cut them a foot longer than needed to cut off any cracks in the ends.

Fresh cut Red Oak laid on steel turns black almost on contact.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Yes! I had heard before to only put one row of nails into green batts, but until his post I always thought they meant nail 1 side, and do the other when it's seasoned.

I "board and baton" the same way all the old time barns where I live, were done.

I saw out battens the same way I mill stickers, I just start out with thicker boards,

As for the boards, I examine the grain and butt them side to side "tight" and so as if they cup, they will cup out/away from the building, then putting a screw in the center of the board.

With that done, I put the batons centered over, where the boards come together, then putting a nail centered in the baton, so the nail will go between the boards. That way the boards can move freely.

It makes for a nice old timey look, that last.

SR

 

[Jstpssng]

I "board and baton" the same way all the old time barns where I live, were done.

I saw out battens the same way I mill stickers, I just start out with thicker boards,

As for the boards, I examine the grain and butt them side to side "tight" and so as if they cup, they will cup out/away from the building, then putting a screw in the center of the board.

With that done, I put the batons centered over, where the boards come together, then putting a nail centered in the baton, so the nail will go between the boards. That way the boards can move freely.

It makes for a nice old timey look, that last.

SR

I always wondered how to keep the boards from splitting as they dried. Now I know.
I always used air dried lumber with two rows of nails, but it's a lot better to put up hemlock as soon as it comes off the mill.