What size boxblade for 2516?

[manganos]

I need a boxblade for my 2516. I'm thinking 5' as that would barely cover my tracks. I don't want to buy too small or too cheap of a blade. I made that mistake twice. I have a 42" Woods bushhog that it too small (great cutter though) and a cheapo 5' rear blade I bent running it behind my 2516.

So what is your thoughts on a good medium/heavy duty cutter size? I'll mostly likely go with a Woods with the two cutting edges ...

Thanks!

 

[Sergei]

I run both 5' King Kutter equipment behind my tractor and for the price I don't think you can go wrong with them.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Depending on your soil, a 6 foot or 5.5 foot Boxblade would get the job done. And it will even cover your tracks.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would go with a good heavy 60" box blade for your 2516. I use a heavy duty 66" roll-over box blade with my 3215HST.

 

[buck12]

I use a 6' box blade with a 2615 and it has no problem with it. I also use a 5' Rhino rotary cutter with good results. Hope that helps.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I use a 6' box blade with a 2615 and it has no problem with it. I also use a 5' Rhino rotary cutter with good results. Hope that helps.

What duty of box blade? Light, medium, heavy duty. This info will help manganos. I doubt that these smaller tractors are going to do much work with a 1200lb box blade, but I might very well be wrong. I know that I would not want to be using one of that size behind my 3215.

 

[buck12]

What duty of box blade? Light, medium, heavy duty. This info will help manganos. I doubt that these smaller tractors are going to do much work with a 1200lb box blade, but I might very well be wrong. I know that I would not want to be using one of that size behind my 3215.

The box blade is an Atlas (I think it is 50 miles away at the hunting camp). Not a brand I am familiar with but it came with the tractor. It has a sticker on it that labels it as heavy duty but I would consider it to be more medium duty.

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

A 60" box blade should more than cover your tracks on a 2516. I would think a 60" would be the best choice, and standard to medium duty should be fine also. I don't think a heavy duty should be necessary.

 

[manganos]

Thanks... I am going to look for a 60" boxblade.

 

[BobF]

I run both 5' King Kutter equipment behind my tractor and for the price I don't think you can go wrong with them.

I also like KK. I have a 6' KK box blade with the hinged rear blade. I'm glad I went for the hinged option!

 

[duckhunt]

I have a 60" Atlas, its says heavy duty, but I think its weighs in a 400-500 lbs. You dont want to go any bigger, my 2816 does well but you know its back there, especially with the ripper teeth down. Some big roots will stop me in my tracks. Hope this helps.

 

[diggerman47]

Hello manganos,

I also have a Mahindra 2516 gear tractor, which I am enjoying very much. My dealer supplied a 60" Southern box blade with it, not for free, mind you <g>.

It came from Southern Farm Supply <http://www.southernfarmsupply.com>
They do sell at retail.

It is a durable no-frills product at a reasonable price and the tractor handles it very well. I worked my hard-packed gravel drive with it using the ripper bars and the tractor never flinched. The box has forward and reverse curved blades and all construction appears quite solid. The unit is marked standard duty which should be fine for non-commercial use.

 

[Sergei]

I originally had gotten the 6 footer but the more I thought about the size I when back and got the 5 footer instead for the simple fact I didn't want to end up breaking parts as my needs couldn't justify that sizes and something that I could do in two passes instead of maybe one. For the price of the tractor I'd like to keep my problems down to a reasonable number and I didn't want to create any especially with my dealer 90 miles away. If it was a field tractor I won't have worried, but this is a compact and it's still easy to hook on to more than the tractor can handle even with the 5 footer now and 4WD. When your on retirement funds you have to start thinking about the little things.

 

[gerard]

I originally had gotten the 6 footer but the more I thought about the size I when back and got the 5 footer instead for the simple fact I didn't want to end up breaking parts as my needs couldn't justify that sizes and something that I could do in two passes instead of maybe one. For the price of the tractor I'd like to keep my problems down to a reasonable number and I didn't want to create any especially with my dealer 90 miles away. If it was a field tractor I won't have worried, but this is a compact and it's still easy to hook on to more than the tractor can handle even with the 5 footer now and 4WD. When your on retirement funds you have to start thinking about the little things.

You should be fine with the 5 footer but I don't understand your reasoning on not wanting to hurt the tractor by going to a 6 footer? A bigger implement will just hang up easier and cause your wheels to spin more often. Even a 5 footer is going to do that if you hook a big rock with the rippers down. Traction is like your shear pin. You should be more concerned about bending the implement. Nothing on your tractor should break besides traction but I've bent rippers that were 3/4 inch solid steel by hooking a rock and I have a med duty box blade. I wouldn't even consider a light duty one.

 

[Sergei]

You should be fine with the 5 footer but I don't understand your reasoning on not wanting to hurt the tractor by going to a 6 footer? A bigger implement will just hang up easier and cause your wheels to spin more often. Even a 5 footer is going to do that if you hook a big rock with the rippers down. Traction is like your shear pin. You should be more concerned about bending the implement. Nothing on your tractor should break besides traction but I've bent rippers that were 3/4 inch solid steel by hooking a rock and I have a med duty box blade. I wouldn't even consider a light duty one.

I plan on keeping my tractor a long time and if you can bend the rippers which are 3/4 inch steel then to me the tractor didn't break traction and the weakest item gave out which could have just as easy been an item in the drive train, larger device just equal more load that you can put on the tractor. Bottom line is it really worth it, bigger is not always better, I was taught to take care of your equipment. Also when you spin the tires you take the chance of cutting the tires on anything that not dirt and sometimes you have no ideal whats been buried at least on my land, done that already. Why take it to the dump when you can just bury it. Tires cost to much to replace and I'd much rather be safe than poorer.

Missed this posting from yesterday as he was using a boxblade: 4110 broken lower 3pt hitch

 

[Sergei]

If you decide to go with the 5 footer you can do the same thing I did with my KK unit by going to Menard's in my case and getting a piece of steel plate 1/4 inch by 6 x 12 and then weld it at an angle to the boxblade with about ½ to 1 inch clearance from the bottom of the box. I've posted pictures of the modification before and to me it works great, I gain more size but by being at an angle less loading effect but when in reverse they help move more material and makes the boxblade a better tool, really great with snow.

 

[manganos]

All great info! I will try and get something this weekend

 

[Sergei]

This has been mentioned before so you may already be aware of it but the one thing to watch out for are paper wasp that like to make nests in the square tube that holds the rippers, especially if you leave it sit outside as they'll find it.