What size tractor can we get by with?

[CADplans]

All that "HYDRO" stuff being said,,,, even by me,,
I still prefer a Power Reverser as compared to a Hydrostatic,, or a true Gear Drive,,

 

[5030]

Having 100% hydrostats prior to my M's I will say I find the dry clutchless hydraulic shuttle (Kubota) to be a much more user friendly transmission and way simpler too, especially for loader work and loading round bales on semi trucks. All it takes is your left hand to change directions and the Kubota Hydraulic shuttle is also load sensitive so wet clutch engagement is dependent on sensed load. I've only adjusted the wet pack ONE time on one unit at that was at 5000 hours and adjustment is easy too. All you need is a liquid filled pressure gage and the correct fitting. and 'clutch' pedal freeplay is a thing of the past as well and if you are one of those people that 'ride' the clutch pedal, no issue, whereas riding a dry clutch is a BIG issue. In fact, Kubota recommends half clutching a hydraulic shuttle as you really cannot hurt it.

 

[rScotty]

BIG mistake not considering a hydrostatic,, especially for your type work.
i have both,,
I let my novice son-in-law use the hydrostatic anytime he wants it,,
The pic is his first ever attempt at using a landscape rake, after an excavator took out a bunch of trees,,

BUT,,
he NEVER gets near my gear drives.

Hydro is just so much easier to do work with,,

You will have fewer mechanical failures if you have a hydro,,
especially if you use a loader,,
Loaders are hard on gear drive tractors.

Hydro or not? Chosing a transmission seems to me to be personal preference. I prefer my hydrostat tranny, because it is easier and faster - but the type of transmission really doesn't make that much difference in the job getting done. They all work about the same and are equally reliable.
a gear transmission does often have the advantage of more ratios.
For the same extra price, I'd rather have a front end loader than a hydrostatic transmission.

The thing about clutches being hard to use is just an urban rumor. Many cars, truck, and tractors had clutches and gears until recently. ]t didn't take my wife ten minutes to figure out how to work our little gear drive tractor. And she is definitely not the mechanical type.

rScotty

 

[5030]

A dry clutch will ALWAYS be the weakest link in the (drive) train and always expensive to replace as well because it will always entail a split.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Even running a tiller, I’d now personally not like less than 40pto HP if you are talking about ACRES. We have clay loam, but it’s virgin… and let me tell you a 72” tiller will make the tractor work. What do you plan to use to work the soil? Ground engaging implements will require HP and weight to do the work. A tiller will require PTO hp. It just depends on how much time you want to spend working the ground. It took me two hours PER PASS to till one acre with our setup. Three passes total to get a good working depth. Now, it moves faster since getting it worked well.

 

[rScotty]

So, If it's similar to my L285; 100% Can and Will get water in hydralic around the shift lever if left out in rain. What this leads too; is you end up with an emulsion-slime build up in the transmission. Then, slowly (or not so slowly) as the trans warms up, it gets loose and stuck in the very fine mesh of the hydralic filter. You clean the filter, but it (very slimy), but there is a ton of emulsion-slime still in reservoir. Then you randomly have to clean again and again. Each time, avoiding getting air in the hydralic lines or letting air out, under pressure (not really that safe, and not much fun).

Absolutely right. Watery hydraulic fluid actually works just fine in the tractor. It can work for years until the emulsified goo plugs up the filters and blocks the suction flow to the hydraulic pump. The most common fix for water in the hydraulic fluid is to clean the removeable strainer, change the spin on hydraulic filter, and put in fresh trans/hydraulic fluid.
That is what I would do first - and the most important of those to do is to clean the removeable strainer/filter if it has one. That costs nothing to do, is homeowner periodic type maintenance, and may well get it going again.
Those were simply too good of a model to be giving up on for something so simple as hydraulic flow.
rScotty

 

[rScotty]

A dry clutch will ALWAYS be the weakest link in the (drive) train and always expensive to replace as well because it will always entail a split.

As a long time mechanic I'd agree with that. A clutch is the weakest link in a tractor drive train. No question about it. And a clutch is a real pain to replace on most models.

But even so, let's be careful not give the wrong impression here. A dry clutch is still good for thousands of hours - just how many thousand depends on the operator. I've seen far more old Ag tractors with 2000 to 4000 hrs that didn't need a cluch job than those that did.

And most homeowners will never put 3000 hours on their tractor.
My favorite tranny just might be a wet clutch power shift with reverser.

rScotty

 

[5030]

The other issue with a dry clutch is not frequent usage and the unit out in the weather. Clutch plates have a bad habit of rusting to the flywheel if the clutch pedal isn't depressed and blocked down. Lots of tractors have a hook near the clutch pedal just for that but a wooden block works just as well.

I've never had water in my gearbox but then I make sure any place it might get in is secure. Prime culprit is the main shift boot. I've replaced mine before on the open station.

 

[sandman2234]

Temperature changes will also alow some condensation into the hydraulic reservoir, so keep temps from being radically different when possible.
David from jax

 

[rScotty]

Temperature changes will also alow some condensation into the hydraulic reservoir, so keep temps from being radically different when possible.
David from jax

Most tractor sumps are simply vented into the atmosphere through an open tube. They breath through the vent, so that is a path for condensation.
It's a pretty easy mod to run the vent tube into a filter and dessicant pack. That will solve the condensation problem. Vent filters are common on commercial hydraulics, but I haven't seen them on utility tractors.
rScotty

 

[JWR]

First, get the B8200 flushed and fixed enough to where you can honestly sell it.

For the replacement, I vote for a Power Reverser or power shuttle. The heavier the work you intend the less you want an HST in my opinion. HSTs make great lawn mowers. If you do go HST, the Kubota B2710 is a nice size 27 hp and probably do all you seem to need. The B2910 is 30 hp and similar but they will lack hydraulic remotes and those are not cheap to add. Used, you should be able to find them for FAR LESS than the $20K-$30K people have been mentioning. I had a JD 4800 with loader and Power Reverser which I loved 22 years ago when I bought it (still in the family with NEVER a major repair needed.) Super but maybe too big for you? One of the Deeres with Power Reverser and not too high hours would be excellent. You do need something with at least one, better yet two, RCV for hydraulics and what you propose doing. Very few smaller tractors are going to have 2 RCVs. My specs list suggested for you is:

• 26 to 30 hp, non-regen, used tractor
• with FEL
• power shuttle trans
• 2 hydraulic remotes (or one and a confirmed price for adding another)
• as low hours as you can find

 

[big bubba]

I've never had water in my gearbox but then I make sure any place it might get in is secure. Prime culprit is the main shift boot. I've replaced mine before on the open station. 5030

yes. as a small detail, i tightly zip tie the boot around the gear shift shaft as well. a 5 gal bucket over the shifter assembly when exposed also helps.

 

[paulsharvey]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned; compare PTO or drawbar PTO on the old vs new machines. I dont think you will notice the HP, till you say 20% higher. Without doing the search for you, that B probably has 16 pto hp. Lot of the 25hp HSTs only have 18-19 pto HP. If your going to upgrade, I would look at 24+ PTO Hp, which is likely the 30-35 engine HP range.

 

[big bubba]

someone should post a survey thread: how many of you wished you had gone larger in your last tractor purchase? being a compact tractor forum, bet there's a lot. regards

 

[Eagle1]

someone should post a survey thread: how many of you wished you had gone larger in your last tractor purchase? being a compact tractor forum, bet there's a lot. regards

Not sure, if I could not have kept my BX I would be hating my LS. Since I do have the little guy to get stuff into and out of tight spots I love having a big brother with the grunt.
Too big could mean redoing sheds, animal pens, gates, fences, barns, garden, trails, etc.

 

[paulsharvey]

someone should post a survey thread: how many of you wished you had gone larger in your last tractor purchase? being a compact tractor forum, bet there's a lot. regards

I would have liked to be in the 40-45hp range, not for a current need, but for the ability to do more in future. My Ck2610 does what I need, But its not future proof. Budget is always a huge factor. If money wasn't an issue, I would have gotten larger, or atleast more HP. I moved for a 27.5 pto hp 1976 Kubota to a 19 pto Kioti. That HP drop concerned me, but it hasn't been a limitation so far.

 

[big bubba]

to be honest, when i got the K fever after 28 yrs of Massey TO35, i upgraded new machine purchases several times before my current machine...ouch, my bad. finally found the ideal machine before Tier4 came around.
hint: a test drive around the dealer's lot (while they lick their chops) is a poor way to approximate your own applications in the field. best regards,

 

[Farmer495]

How wide / tall can you go and still clean out your barn?

I'd get the biggest one that will fit.

 

[big bubba]

modify the barn entrance if needed, choose the tractor size to fit your current & future needs
don't box yourself in for the future, best regards

 

[Stormy873]

BIG mistake not considering a hydrostatic,, especially for your type work.
i have both,,
I let my novice son-in-law use the hydrostatic anytime he wants it,,
The pic is his first ever attempt at using a landscape rake, after an excavator took out a bunch of trees,,

BUT,,
he NEVER gets near my gear drives.

Hydro is just so much easier to do work with,,

You will have fewer mechanical failures if you have a hydro,,
especially if you use a loader,,
Loaders are hard on gear drive tractors.

Interesting…will have to research more. I just despise CVT transmission in cars and the hydrostatic drive was the first thing to go on my lawn tractor. The dealer told us that the geared drive we are already used is better for pushing snow…but admittedly he did say everyone buys the hydrostatic drive. I figured it was because farmers have been gentrified out of out of our area and the rich who’ve moved in barely dont know how to shift gears.