What to ask when looking at a Jubilee?

GabeTX · Apr 1, 2005

Changed the transmission fluid today--there was some water that came out before the oil, and the oil was in really, really nasty shape. I peeked in the filler cap and didn't see any rust inside, so I'm hopeing it'll be alright?

Also, the package from Just8n's arrived, so I replaced the temp gauge and proofmeter (the proofmeter cable seemed a bit too long though--it would only work if I unscrewed the coupler from one of the ends, but still left the cable end attached /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif ). Going to try removing the cable from the original guide and seeing if it likes having more play.

The low point of the evening though, was changed the oil. I warmed it up, emptied the old oil, changed the filter, added new oil (straight 30, as recommended) started it up, watched the oil pressure build to 20psi, and, after the engine had stalled (still need to fix some ignition problems...), noticed an enormous pool of oil under the tractor. Tightened the nut on the oil canister (it had been on there really tight), added a couple quarts until the level had risen to a comfortable spot on the dipstick, and started it again. Another geiser coming from the canister /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. Removed it, found the gasket probably wasn't seated right, and put it back. Realized I was out of oil to add, and, even though it hadn't dropped to "Add more" on the dipstick (maybe a quarter inch above that line) I decided to call it a night. First stop in the morning after breakfast is gonna be someplace that sells motor oil. Hopefully the engine wasn't damaged and it won't gush tomorrow. If it doesn't, I'll finally be able to use it to do some actual work. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

soundguy: you mentioned that some had been converted to a spin-on filter. Hopefully it's still possible to do that? This evenings activities have made me want to give to the estate of the man that invented modern oil filters...

JoeinTX · Apr 1, 2005

OT, but where abouts are you located, Gabe?

GabeTX · Apr 1, 2005

A few miles west of Ponder, in Denton County (about an hour north west of Dallas).

jinman · Apr 2, 2005

( Ponder, in Denton County )

Ponder?! As in Hwy 156 north of Justin? As in Ponder Steak House? Hey, that's not too, too, far from where I drive home every day. If you keep having problems, I might be able to offer you some one-on-one help. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Soundguy · Apr 2, 2005

I'd deffinately try to re-route the proofmeter cable and get it screwed on correctly.

Yep, there was a Ford spin on adapter kit. No sure if they are still available. but might be. Worth calling to find out.

My NAA has the spin on adapter, and my 660 has the canister. Usually it is just a gasket issue on the canister.

Good luck.

Also.. was your oil pressure 20 psi at low throttle? If you work in high temps ( florida texas.. etc.. ) I'd go to 40w of the same brand oil you are using. In other words.. dump the 40w in with the 30w. ( then go to 40w on next change.. ) If you live in cold temps.. 30w is probably fine.

Bad oil leak could have accounted for the low oil pressure too.

Soundguy

GabeTX · Apr 2, 2005

Actually got to put it to work this morning. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif It mowed my lot fine--got through quite a bit in 3rd, big chunks in 2nd, and a couple really lush spots in 1st. The only casualties were my gas cap (stupid mistake) and the little piece of metal that sticks in the middle of the toplink to get leverage on the body. Both cheap enough. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

You could now host a PGA tour on my lot, provided you used enormous cups.

( I'd deffinately try to re-route the proofmeter cable and get it screwed on correctly.)
I gave this a shot, but it just doesn't want to work when it's screwed in. It's like the sheath is just 3/4" too short. I'm wondering if maybe this is because I have the aftermarket hydraulic pump? Perhaps the proofmeter connection on it is in a different position on the original. I'll give just8n's a shout tomorrow and see what they have to say (I bought the cable and proofmeter from them).

( Usually it is just a gasket issue on the canister.)
Yup, thas was it. Now that I have a procedure down for getting the gasket on, the next one won't be so painful. It started right up and didn't leak a drop today.

( Also.. was your oil pressure 20 psi at low throttle?)
It was 20 psi when it was gushing oil from the filter canister. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Normally, it's 40+ when I start it. The lowest I've seen it (when it wasn't spewing oil from the filter) was this afternoon, when I was letting it idle (450 or so RPM) after mowing my lot. It was about 18 or so (a bit below 20), but the engine was pretty warm.

Jinman: Yup, that Ponder with that steakhouse. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I appreciate the offer (as well as the copious advice you and Soundman have been giving--you guys both know your stuff well enough to tell a complete neophyte how to get a 52 year old tractor running. Wow! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif ) and may have to take you up on it sometime. I have no doubts this thing will stump me again before I get it running well. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Next up is changing the points and getting the timing sorted out. Something is certainly fishy there--I hooked my timing light up, and the flashes were fairly erratic, so something still ain't quite right.

Soundguy · Apr 4, 2005

Mine has the piston pump, instead of the OEM vane pump. if this is what you are refering to, the proofmeter cable should still fit... Is your dash mangled where the proofmeter sets? throwing it out of alignment.

The eratic firing could be bad points.. either misgapped.. bad bushings on the distribuitor shaft.. etc.

Try this as an easy /no-disassemble test run. to familiarize yourself with the points.

Unbuckle the distrib cap.. push out of way.. pop rotor button off. Inspect it's contact for burning.. replace if needed.. also gander up in te cap.. if the contacts are burn.. get a new cap.

Pull dust cover off.. now you see the points. Take a piece of brown grocery sack, and slip it between the points .. hold points closed with a bit of pressure, and pull the paper thru. do this about 20 times. Alternately if you specifically had a ignition file or points hone, a quick back and forth action would clean them up. Don't try this with a regular shop file.. or a piece of emory paper.

See if it doesn't run a tad better after re-assemble. If it does.. you will need points soon.

Soundguy

GabeTX · Apr 4, 2005

The dash doesn't look mangled at all. Today's tractor repair session (hydraulic and differential fluid, more work on the timing) is done, but tomorrow I'll completely remove the new cable and compare its length to the old one...

I set the timing with a timing light today, and that made a noticeable difference. I also tried the brown paper bag thing, and that didn't seem to make too big a difference. I think it didn't make a difference because the points were too nasty. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif They were pitted, corroded, and I didn't see much, if any, clean metal on them. I'd already replaced the rotor and distributor cap, and I have a new coil and points that came as part of a tune-up kit.

All this has made the irregularity of the idle more regular, if that makes any sense. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Instead of sounding like its on the verge of stalling (and occaisonally doing so), it now swings between periods of smooth idling and periods when it starts to stall, the governor gives it more gas, it picks up, drops into an idle again, and then the whole cycle repeats anywhere between 1 to 8 seconds later.

And just as a random comment to anyone who may still be reading: I picked up a new gas cap from a New Holland dealer today, and it's a LOT different then the old one (and, at $44 bucks, substantially more expensive). I guess the whole "leaking under pressure" thing was fairly common, so the new one has a fairly complex two-way vent.

Of course, I found the old gas cap wedged behind the radiator's outlet hose (I walked over my entire lot looking for that thing!) while I was working on the timing. But fixing the gas leak was worth the new $44 gas cap. Or so I tell myself. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Soundguy · Apr 5, 2005

The intermittant idle is a sign of a missfire. Have you change out the plugs? Also.. did you get the fire order correct? Don't trust what the dealer had.
Are the wires the metal core style.. and is the insulation good/

A bad condensor is also a likely culpret of misfireing and burned points.. DO replace both at the same time.

If you've never dealt with points, it's simple.. just look at the rubbing block and the cam.. the points open on the high side of te cam, and close on the low spots.. gap when open should be .025 on a feeler gauge.. or just a bit thicker than a match box cover / business card! Pull your plugs and rotate the engine via the fan belt when setting the points to verify gap. Add a drop of grease on the side of the rubbing block where it contacts the 'oncoming' side of the cam.. but no lube or anything on the points themselves.. they must be squeaky clean. If ya already knew about points.. sorry for the schoolin'.

Soundguy

jinman · Apr 5, 2005

Gabe, if that tractor sat for a long while, I'm sure the carburetor needs cleaning. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the Marvel-Schebler carb. If you shut off the gas and drain the carb, you may see water or trash. Both these can cause the engine to stumble. Also, look for air leaks around the top of the carburetor or the intake manifold to head. All these can cause erratic idling, but disappear when your engine is running faster. I don't remember (and didn't read the thread all the way back) but a carburetor idle screw adjustment might help set the mixture and smooth things out if you haven't already done that.

If you think it might be ignition related, I can tell you that a cracked distributor cap is sometimes really hard to see. If the cap is dirty at all around the sparkplug or coil wire, that's a sneak path for an escaping spark. On a pitch black night, you can start the engine and sometimes see sparks dancing around dirty or faulty wires.

Remember, this is an old tractor, so even the valves could be burned a little and that will cause rough idle. As long as it pulls strong and doesn't stumble under load, that's the main thing. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif