What vehicle do you pull with (need advice)?

[crazyal]

I'm not sure if you are handy but an out side the box option is to get an old school bus and convert it to a flat bed. Of course I would only do this if your only plans are to drive it when moving your tractor. Around here they are not too hard to find and if they have a gas engine they are priced cheap. They usually are internationals with a 345 or 392, both are good engines.

 

[jimbo64]

1985 f150-4wd

 

[midtnvol]

2004 FX4 F150 Supercab with a 6'4" X10' trailer. I can just get the 1850 and one implement on it and shut the tailgate. When I'm loading the trailer I have negative tongue weight until I get well up on to the trailer. I also have a 2001 Ford Escape 4X4 that I have towed with and it pulls fine except that when I load the trailer it picks up the rear tires slightly. I always make sure I'm on level ground and it is also front wheel drive so it's not too dangerous and I never tow over two miles and never up or down large slopes. I have ample tongue weight when pulled forward on the trailer. I need a longer trailer.

 

[tdearstine]

I picked up a 1995 3500 4dr GMC longbed 4wd for 5 grand, its got the 6.5 turbo diesel and only 145000 miles, they also came with 454's and 350's, all great towing vehicles, the diesels are not well wanted because the Duramax is so much better, but I am a 20yr former GM technician and I always like the simplicity of the 6.5 Diesel, I put my BX in my livestock trailer to tow it to where I need to get it, it fits in perfectly, its a 14 ft semi enclosed trailer, thats one reason i got a BX, was that it fit in my barn good and in the trailer.

 

[dodge man]

I tow my BX2350 on a 16' trailer rated for 7000lbs total, think car trailer. My truck is a 2007 Dodge Ram 4x4 with the Hemi and 3.92 rear gears.

People are listing 3/4 ton trucks and it seems like a recomendation. My truck is over kill for towing a BX. My guess is that your tractor with the FEL, backhoe and a MMM would weight less than 3000lbs. Throw in the weight of a trailer of 2000 lbs or a little less, and just about any 1/2 ton will tow that.

In my area, 75% of the trucks are 4x4, but I live in the heart of farm country. This can make 2 wheel drive hard to find, but they tend to go for pretty low dollars. Unless you see yourself getting into mud or snow alot, go for 2 wheel drive and it will save you several thousand dollars. If you would get into the snow and mud, 4 wheel drive can be a must have.

 

[ModMech]

'93 F-250 4x2, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed.

It will safely pull anything we can load onto the 16' x 7' trailer we have.

 

[JakeBrake]

I use a surplus DWFP (Department of Wildlife, Fisheries, and Parks) truck. This is a no-frills 1995 GMC SWB K1500 with a 350 cu. in. V8 engine and 4X4. I use Maxxis Buckshot Mudder tires. My trailer is a custom built 16 ft. model with two 3500 lb. axles with electric brakes. I use this rig to haul my L3830 and bush hog the 35 miles between my my house and our property via back roads. The truck pulls the loaded trailer with no problem. I would not want to try this in the Colorado Rockies. Gas mileage ranges between 10-14 MPG.

I put the truck into low range 4X4 as soon as I leave the paved public road. Personally, I would not want a farm truck without 4X4.

GM sells this model truck to agencies all over the country. Surplus trucks should be available all over the country. In this part of the country these surplus trucks have a great reputation and command a premium price. Another good thing is that it came equipped with plenty of dents and scratches so you don't worry about a few more.

 

[RomeK2]

Thank you all for such good advice. I will have to backtrack and reread the technical stuff above. I've missed a lot since I took a little break for the holiday weekend.

I've been looking at several '88-'96 ford 150's, a '88 chevy 1500 4x4 and one '94 ford 250. Price range 1-3k. There are some good buys out there and some bad ones too. AND there are the scammers. I'm gonna skip that subject.

Anyway so far the 250 is on the top of my list. It's asking only $1800. I think I can get that one for 12-1500. It's pretty good shape for the money. I like the size and it has lots of power, 7.5 v8 automatic.

Any 'decent' f150 has been in the 2500-3000 range.

The '88 chevy I think is too pricy for the age at 3k.

Can anyone chime in on automatic vs manual transmission for towing purposes?

 

[RomeK2]

Consider a 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup that is in roadable shape. Make does not matter. The four wheel option is not a necessity but sure may come in handy. You may want to add an extra rear leaf if the back sags.It may also require a Load equalizer.

Trailer from 17 to 20 feet, 7K to 10K range. Probably a bumper pull but the goose neck version will tow better.


My anemic 96 dodge tows a 20 ft bumper pull trailer. Air bags and load equalizer also.

Please explain what a load equalizer and air bags are.

 

[RomeK2]

Watch your weights. Get a manual and understand GVWR, GAWR, GCVWR, and tounge weight, for truck and trailer. This is all explained quite well in any truck manual. For my truck, I have a GCVWR of 15,000 pounds, and I am getting close to it with below set up. I am slightly exceedeing max tounge weight in attached picture. I have a 2004 F250SD with 5.4 and 4 speed auto, electric brake controller. Triailer is a 16' + 2' beaver tail with a GVWR of 10,000 pounds, 16" wheels, 6000 pound axles, electric brakes both axles. Think about how long your BX25TLB is, how you will position on trailer to distribute weight, and how you will tie down. A longer trailer may be required. Once you get everything together, go to a commercial truck stop where you can weigh each axle so you know where you are at, loaded and unloaded. Philip.

Great advice. Thanks. Will commercial truck stop be able to tell tongue weight as well?