Ballast Wheel Weights or not?

[deere5105]

Alright guys here is the question, do I add wheel weights or not?

Tractor description is 5105 2WD with 14.9-28 tires loaded with water with recently installed JD 512 loader. Tires loaded with water adds about 450 lbs per tire. Primary uses include light loader work, mowing with JD MX6 rotary, wildlife food plot preparations and small gardening(3 acres or so). I have noticed the tractor will lose traction far before the motor bogs in loose soil. Have also experienced loss of traction when pulling out downed trees for firewood.

I am in the process of getting a quote to add wheel weights. Questions are:
#1 How many weights to add per side?
#2 Will the weights make a NOTICEABLE difference with just one? With two?
#3 What are the advantages/disadvantages to mounting weights inside the wheel vs outside? Don't want to get them extended outside the wheel as sometimes I am in tight conditions.

My experience has been the site is wealth of information and experience. I look forward to hearing if you encountered this same situation and the results of how you addressed it.

Thanks,
Deere5105

 

[kennyd]

What are you using on the 3PH? Because weight there is far aft of the rear axle it can help better than wheel weights IMHO. A ballast box filled with Portland Cement will weight about 1000lbs and is very compact. If you have a I-Match QH it's a breeze to hook up also.

 

[jenkinsph]

If you are concerned about the weights sticking out then two 110 lb weights per wheel is max. You may also want to consider using RimGuard or beetjuice instead of plain water for increased ballast or a ballast box as kennyd mentions.



Steve

 

[deere5105]

What are you using on the 3PH? Because weight there is far aft of the rear axle it can help better than wheel weights IMHO. A ballast box filled with Portland Cement will weight about 1000lbs and is very compact. If you have a I-Match QH it's a breeze to hook up also.

I sometimes have my MX6 rotary on or maybe a 78" BushHog box blade. I notice a big difference with either on. One other issue I was hoping would benefit from this too would be an increase in traction while using box blade or disking. With MX6 on you need a pretty open area to work in due to overall length. I don't see a whole lot of tractors in my area with wheel weights. Another reason I am posting here about this. Was at the dealer this morning picking up a part for an implement and even though he is a salesman he mentioned 3PT weight. He did agree to give me credit for my front mounted weights on trade in if I wanted to order the rear weights. That would offset the cost some because the loader I purchased is a permanent mount and the front weights are no longer needed since I won't be removing the loader.

 

[deere5105]

If you are concerned about the weights sticking out then two 110 lb weights per wheel is max. You may also want to consider using RimGuard or beetjuice instead of plain water for increased ballast or a ballast box as kennyd mentions.



Steve

I inquired about RimGuard and it does not appear to be available this far south. Per RimGuard, they don't have a high enough demand for it this far south and are only able to deliver it by the truck tanker load. Most people this far south will just use water since it is practically free and has a low risk of freezing. I figured a max of two per side would be about all I could do without it sticking past the tire. Do you have wheel weights?

 

[jenkinsph]

I inquired about RimGuard and it does not appear to be available this far south. Per RimGuard, they don't have a high enough demand for it this far south and are only able to deliver it by the truck tanker load. Most people this far south will just use water since it is practically free and has a low risk of freezing. I figured a max of two per side would be about all I could do without it sticking past the tire. Do you have wheel weights?

I have a new 4520 cab with 3) 110lb weights each side and 6) 70lb weights on the front. I have a separate tractor for loader work so this one is used for manuevering in close quarters hence no loader. I do not have water or RimGuard in my tires. We have a sandy to rocky soil here in New Mexico so traction is good.

I use to live just outside of McComb area though and the slippery clay will require a lot of weight to get a grip. So familiar with most of the areas there.


Steve

 

[deere5105]

I have a new 4520 cab with 3) 110lb weights each side and 6) 70lb weights on the front. I have a separate tractor for loader work so this one is used for manuevering in close quarters hence no loader. I do not have water or RimGuard in my tires. We have a sandy to rocky soil here in New Mexico so traction is good.

I use to live just outside of McComb area though and the slippery clay will require a lot of weight to get a grip. So familiar with most of the areas there.


Steve

Long ways from McComb to New Mexico!! Where I live is very sandy. I am familiar with the clay you speak of but don't have to deal with it a lot. We have a little in a few places but not a lot. I am west of McComb in Hattiesburg. I guess my concern and question is will I notice a difference when plowing and using box blade...less wheel spin or will it be unnoticeable. Think I saw where weights could be mounted on the inside...any drawbacks to that? I read one old thread where someone said they had loaded tires and weights and if doing over probably wouldn't buy the weights again.

 

[jenkinsph]

I hope your EAST of McComb.

If you add two weights per wheel this will increase your ballast by 50% which is substancial. If you can loose the loader bucket when plowing or discing this would help also. Dont know about installing wheel weights on the inside but can tell you that the outside edges are smooth enough not to snag on most things.

I would try the tractor without the weights and if I continued to have wheel slip issues I would then add the weights.



Steve

 

[deere5105]

You are correct EAST not west. I guess I was typing instead of thinking. I work west of Hattiesburg and most every direction I give is west.

I did a bit of discing today and tried with and with out the bucket. Seemed to bounce a little more in plowed ground without the bucket. Traction seemed about the same. I have refinished an old 6' disc that seems to go better with my set up. I have used an 8' and it would spin quite a bit. I think I can trade in my four front weights and add one set of rear wheel weights for very little out of pocket. I am very tempted to at least add one set and see if it helps. I don't know of anyway to use the four front weights to help this situation.

 

[jenkinsph]

I don't know if the technology has changed much but most people in the know have agreed that 10 to 15% wheel slippage is optimal when fully loaded.


Steve