Wheel weights

[aarolar]

I am thinking about making some wheel weights for my MX4800, my tires are loaded but I still struggle with spinning out in my sandy loam which really gets tiring when I'm working a 10 acre dove field or my food plots. I can easily make a 3" thick or 3 1" thick plates to go inside the rim about 17" in diameter that would put about 200lbs on each wheel or 400lbs total. My question is do yall feel this is worthwhile, will I see an improvement? The plasma time is free at work I would only pay for the steel at about 300$ total.

 

[TripleR]

Well worth it, I added 200+ OEM to my L5740 and am very happy with the added traction and stability.

 

[jeff9366]

What tires do you have? How worn is the tread? Do you have 4-WD?

What implement is causing you to lose traction?

 

[TripleR]

I have fluid in my tires and always a minimum of 1000+ pounds on the 3PH, but the ballast doesn't help with traction while pulling it, so weights really helped.

 

[aarolar]

Well worth it, I added 200+ OEM to my L5740 and am very happy with the added traction and stability.

200 per wheel I'm guessing?

What tires do you have? How worn is the tread? What implement is causing you to lose traction?

Brand new 6 ply Titian Ags Harrow Subsoiler ect.

 

[jeff9366]

Brand new 6 ply Titian Ags Harrow Subsoiler ect.

4-WD or 2-WD??

 

[aarolar]

4-WD or 2-WD??

2-WD!!

 

[jeff9366]

Wheel weights, it is.

After the universal adoption of Ferguson's Three Point Hitch, the next two big advances in tractors were 4-WD and power steering.

4-WD would have been additional money well spent.

 

[jeff9366]

Brand new 6 ply Titian Ags Harrow Subsoiler ect.

1. Adjusting your Top Link longer, so Tandem Disc Harrow weight is 50% on front gangs and 50% on rear gangs may decrease draft force resistance considerably. Lengthening Top Link shifts more implement weight to the rear, distributing more weight to the rear tires. Change in dynamic weight distribution can be 300 to 400 pounds ~~ depending.

A shorter Top Link shifts Disc Harrow implement weight and draft force to the front tires.

2. Decreasing gang angles will also decrease draft force resistance and decrease furrow depth.

( I always decrease front and rear gang angles after first Disc Harrow pass over my food plots.)

If you have not experimented with multiple settings on your Disc Harrow I would try these simple adjustments first.


LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ing-three-point-hitch-mounted.html?highlight=


3. Also worthwhile decreasing pressure in your rear tires to minimum recommended pressure. Six ply ags are stiffer than four ply ags. Decreasing rear tire pressure will soften them to a limited extent, improving traction.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I am thinking about making some wheel weights for my MX4800, my tires are loaded but I still struggle with spinning out in my sandy loam which really gets tiring when I'm working a 10 acre dove field or my food plots. I can easily make a 3" thick or 3 1" thick plates to go inside the rim about 17" in diameter that would put about 200lbs on each wheel or 400lbs total. My question is do yall feel this is worthwhile, will I see an improvement? The plasma time is free at work I would only pay for the steel at about 300$ total.

what are they loaded with and how full? What tire pressure are you running? Is you harrow pulling more or less level? I think the wheel weights are a great idea!

 

[Ford850]

The last couple comments above is where I would start. With the tractor on a paved surface, look at the outermost edges of the rear tire bars (both inside and outside of each tire) that are in contact with the ground. The tires should be inflated (or deflated) so those bars are in full contact and carrying weight all the way to the outer edges. Then check the pressure and make note of it so you can inflate/deflate to this sweet spot easily by checking pressure in the future. For very soft soil, I deflate a little beyond that point. Carrying heavy loads might require more pressure, but I prefer to have my tires squat somewhat to insure good traction. This probably seems like a minor thing but it makes a huge difference especially in 2WD. You might still want to add weights, but I'd start with checking the tires since most people inflate to max. I lower the pressure before winter for better snow traction, and leave it there through the spring when I'm working soil. When I switch over to the rotary cutter I bump up the pressure closer to max.

 

[TripleR]

200 per wheel I'm guessing?

Brand new 6 ply Titian Ags Harrow Subsoiler ect.

Yes, in the US a bit over 100 pound plates are available, in Canada, you can get more, so I added two to each side. One more set will fit, but it's not needed right now.

 

[aarolar]

Yes, in the US a bit over 100 pound plates are available, in Canada, you can get more, so I added two to each side. One more set will fit, but it's not needed right now.

Thanks I'm pricing those through lone star now trying to decide between that or making my own.

 

[jenkinsph]

I put three 110lb. weights on each rear wheel of my 4520, that helps a lot. Last year I added a drum of WWF to the tires with each tire half full. Anyone see any problems with half filled tires using the WWF?

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I put three 110lb. weights on each rear wheel of my 4520, that helps a lot. Last year I added a drum of WWF to the tires with each tire half full. Anyone see any problems with half filled tires using the WWF?

Generally filling tires to 75% to keep the rims from rusting is standard filling volume. Thats enough fluid in theory to keep the rims submerged 100% of the time. I don't see any issues with WWF as long as it doesn't freeze!

 

[mike69440]

I have about 750 Lbs of weight on my L39 Weights are on both sides of the rim, the inners act as spacers. Weight plus stance adds stability, especially with enhanced hydraulics.

 

[jenkinsph]

Generally filling tires to 75% to keep the rims from rusting is standard filling volume. Thats enough fluid in theory to keep the rims submerged 100% of the time. I don't see any issues with WWF as long as it doesn't freeze!

The WWF I put in is rated for -20F if it is colder than that I won't use it anyway. About the rusting I know Calcium would be tough but wondering how the WWF should work out or should I add some type of rust inhibitor or brake fluid? Looking for ideas here.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

The WWF I put in is rated for -20F if it is colder than that I won't use it anyway. About the rusting I know Calcium would be tough but wondering how the WWF should work out or should I add some type of rust inhibitor or brake fluid? Looking for ideas here.

Honestly, I don't think you need to worry about it. If it really concerns you and you are not opposed, I'd just top off the tires to 75% unless weight is a concern.

 

[jenkinsph]

Honestly, I don't think you need to worry about it. If it really concerns you and you are not opposed, I'd just top off the tires to 75% unless weight is a concern.

Weight is the issue, I may add another drum of WWF after using the tractor a little more. Most of my recent work has been with the backhoe since adding the fluid but the next few weeks I will have a chance to try it out. Easy to add more if the tractor reacts well enough.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

I put 400lbs on my 5100 and it made a world of difference. Pricey, but worth it.