wheeled three point box blade

[jmickey499]

I see many rave about a towed hydraulic box grader with adjustable wheels at the rear. One of my box blade frustrations an entry level subcompact is the inability to fine tune the height hydraulically. I am thinking of adding wheels to the back of my box blade that can be tuned up or down like a towable grading box so I can use the rippers and still leave a level surface without gouging and dragging piles of gravel. Has anyone seen this, or has a rationale why this won't work? I can weld and have enough scrap to do a trial. I can't find any pics of a three point box blade with wheels off the back. Thanks. in advance for any advice.

 

[oldnslo]

Should work the same as gauge wheels on a landscape rake.

 

[ruffdog]

Check these threads:

Box Scraper - Added training wheels to my box blade Pics

Gauge wheels on a box blade, worth persuing?

Gauge Wheels for Landscape Rake Dirt Dog

3 point grader box gauge wheels - Google Search

 

[bcp]

Image search:

"box blade" "gauge wheels" - Google Search

www.google.com

Bruce

 

[jmickey499]

Check these threads:

Box Scraper - Added training wheels to my box blade Pics

Gauge wheels on a box blade, worth persuing?

Gauge Wheels for Landscape Rake Dirt Dog

3 point grader box gauge wheels - Google Search

Right on! I haven't seen these. Thanks so much

 

[jmickey499]

Image search:

"box blade" "gauge wheels" - Google Search

www.google.com

Bruce

thanks. I guess my search criteria was not very good, lol

 

[Too many Kubotas]

For it to work correctly the upper link should be removed, or replaced with a chain or cable. Or something with some give.

A big drawback in my mind is the short distance between the rear axle and the cutting blade. That's why I welded up an extension on mine, pinned to the 3-point holes on the box blade and going to a point with a tow ring for the tractor.

 

[FriendwithTractor]

There's a guy on YT who raves about a pull type grader box, Neil Koch. In the video I linked, he's using a large one with a Kubota L4740
They seem to do good work for him and offer a great deal more control than a 3 point hitch one.

 

[rScotty]

I see many rave about a towed hydraulic box grader with adjustable wheels at the rear. One of my box blade frustrations an entry level subcompact is the inability to fine tune the height hydraulically. I am thinking of adding wheels to the back of my box blade that can be tuned up or down like a towable grading box so I can use the rippers and still leave a level surface without gouging and dragging piles of gravel. Has anyone seen this, or has a rationale why this won't work? I can weld and have enough scrap to do a trial. I can't find any pics of a three point box blade with wheels off the back. Thanks. in advance for any advice.

I have gauge wheels on a rake, but they have problems too. You may want to consider simply makng some two foot long 4x4 angle iron with an up turned ski front and bolting them to the outsides walls of the box blade. I've been meaning to do that myself. It would be easy to do, inexpensive, and should limit the depth. If it does't work you aren't out much. In fact you could probably use some wood 4x4 for a prototype.
A series of holes in the sides of the box blade would make the skis adjustable for depth.

The advantage of skis should be that they are the same distance back from the tractor as the rippers or cutting edge that is being controlled for depth. That makes the box depth responds to the ground right under it.

I've been thinking abot the skis since I do have gauge wheels on a landscape rake. Because they are several feet behind the rake, they end up raising or lowering the rake according to the ground under the wheels instead of under the rake.

rScotty

 

[Too many Kubotas]

There's a guy on YT who raves about a pull type grader box, Neil Koch. In the video I linked, he's using a large one with a Kubota L4740
They seem to do good work for him and offer a great deal more control than a 3 point hitch one.

When creating my first towable I expected to set the height with the hydraulics for the axle behind the blade.

Wrong. That's more of a rough setting, then the height can be fine tuned to perfection with the pintle hook on the 3-point.

It worked so well that I started to use an extension, about 60 inches long, since the longer the distance from the tractor's axle to the cutting blade, the better the precision.

Since that way even a 1-foot hump has very little effect on the blade, and the wheels behind rides on a now smoothed surface, it's rare that I need to make a second pass.

After all, there's a reason road graders have a long distance between the front axle and the blade. Oh, and large and/or wide tires also help quite a bit.