Where does your tractor sleep?

[kneedeep]

That is a good size for my needs as well. Mind if I ask how much $$?

 

[Magicman710]

That is a good size for my needs as well. Mind if I ask how much $$?

$6000.

I'm thinking of pouring a slab and enclosing it this year, but I'm kind of wearing about doing that with the slope that its built on.

 

[fivepoint]

My New Holland T4.75 sleeps in our 35'x55' Morton Barn. The barn has a nice entertaining loft which gets a lot of use in the warmer months.

Hoping to have the barn insulated (R25 open-cell spray foam) by early March as long as everything goes well and we get a few warm days to spray.

 

[Carl_NH]

Hoping to have the barn insulated (R25 open-cell spray foam) by early March as long as everything goes well and we get a few warm days to spray.

View attachment 408437View attachment 408438

Fivepoint -

Very nice barn with the loft! On your open cell foam - is this a DIY or contracted out and are you doing the whole barn or select area?

Curious on the cost PSF and did you consider doing 1" spray and batt combination?

 

[Carl_NH]

[Duplicate

 

[fivepoint]

Fivepoint -

Very nice barn with the loft! On your open cell foam - is this a DIY or contracted out and are you doing the whole barn or select area?

Curious on the cost PSF and did you consider doing 1" spray and batt combination?

Thanks man - the open cell foam will be contracted out. It's a 55'x35' barn with a 12/12 roof pitch. My goal is to get to R30 on the ceiling and R20 on the walls. I've had everything from $22,000 for closed-cell to $8,500 for open cell quoted to me - decided to probably go with the $8500 open cell bid.

From what I'm hearing, the vapor barrier benefit of the closed-cell is really pointless when the open cell is sprayed as thick as we're planning. (tell me if this is wrong) This will be around 5.5" on the walls, and 7.5" on the ceiling. (haven't calculated the PSF)

Did not consider using batt - but I am considering using 1" hard foam next to the steel to prevent the spray foam from sticking to the steel (for easy replacement).

Biggest question remaining is how to do the door - best for insulation would be to replace the existing rolling doors with a high quality over head door - but it kind of ruins the aesthetic - so I'm not sure what we'll do.

 

[Paul Thornton]

Leave the existing doors and put on the insulated overhead door too. It will look the same from the outside.

 

[fivepoint]

Leave the existing doors and put on the insulated overhead door too. It will look the same from the outside.

Great idea, Paul - hadn't thought of that - could definitely work.
If I wanted to do it right, I suppose I'd add an automatic opener to the sliding doors as well which activate automatically along with the overhead.

 

[bullebak]

I have some experience in leaving the tractor under the stars/trees (not by choice). Over 7 years the following issues gradually arose:

1. Faded handgrips
2. Cracked seat in various places
3. Faulty ignition switch
4. Massive amounts of dust, leaves and twigs everywhere in engine compartment and elsewhere
5. Rusty slasher & other implements (despite periodical spraying with anti-corrosion stuff)

Paint held up very well. Of course, servicing the machine is no fun in the forest.

Once I completed moving a shed from the house in town, but just before it could be secured to the ground, an enormous storm lifted the whole thing up in the air smashing it to bits.

This is undeveloped land (60 acres), but more recently got a permit for a farmshed (before lodging house planning permit application) so things are looking up.

Primarily I use the machine for pushing soil around and spraying gorse/blackberries (lifetime work). Projects completed or near completion include the driveway from the road (80m x 4m), culvert pipes, dam (see avatar), several creek crossings, shed site, house site and numerous others.

Here some pics of work in progress. Concretors have threatened to do the floor next week (7.6m x 18m) after many months of delays, after which I can complete the walls.

It has 5 bays (2 secured with roller doors and 3 open with option to fit rollers doors there too).

 

[GaryLock]

Leave the existing doors and put on the insulated overhead door too. It will look the same from the outside.

Cool idea. It will look like the beginning of the old Get Smart TV show.

 

[Carl_NH]

Thanks man - the open cell foam will be contracted out. It's a 55'x35' barn with a 12/12 roof pitch. My goal is to get to R30 on the ceiling and R20 on the walls. I've had everything from $22,000 for closed-cell to $8,500 for open cell quoted to me - decided to probably go with the $8500 open cell bid.

From what I'm hearing, the vapor barrier benefit of the closed-cell is really pointless when the open cell is sprayed as thick as we're planning. (tell me if this is wrong) This will be around 5.5" on the walls, and 7.5" on the ceiling. (haven't calculated the PSF)

Did not consider using batt - but I am considering using 1" hard foam next to the steel to prevent the spray foam from sticking to the steel (for easy replacement).

Biggest question remaining is how to do the door - best for insulation would be to replace the existing rolling doors with a high quality over head door - but it kind of ruins the aesthetic - so I'm not sure what we'll do.

That's a great price for open cell and @ 5.5" = R19 and 7.5 R26 - the open cell R value is 3.5/3.7" and closed cell near R6". I agree, at the price difference open cell will be fine. Open cell is not good for damp spaces or humid areas as it does not repel moisture it can absorb water faster due to the open cells.

On the hard foam, 1" in the roof area against the steel roof purlins then spray would give you an additional R6 or so in the roof. But with a life around 30-40 years for a metal roof unless a tree hits it I don't see much value in doing this. If you spray directly on the metal you don't let any air in - if you put a barrier in the walls/ceilings then this allows air in - I would speak with the insulating contractor for your area on this as they have local experience with condensation.

Did you insulate the foundation and put in a floor barrier before pouring concrete?

On the garage doors, I have old 1950's wood sliding passing doors on our garage and their are bristle brushes I looked into (but haven't done anything as it's an unheated space). I found a lot of good info here on garage journal Sealing a sliding barn door... - The Garage Journal Board.

Carl

 

[Carl_NH]

Duplicate

 

[fivepoint]

That's a great price for open cell and @ 5.5" = R19 and 7.5 R26 - the open cell R value is 3.5/3.7" and closed cell near R6". I agree, at the price difference open cell will be fine. Open cell is not good for damp spaces or humid areas as it does not repel moisture it can absorb water faster due to the open cells.

Good to know!

On the hard foam, 1" in the roof area against the steel roof purlins then spray would give you an additional R6 or so in the roof. But with a life around 30-40 years for a metal roof unless a tree hits it I don't see much value in doing this. If you spray directly on the metal you don't let any air in - if you put a barrier in the walls/ceilings then this allows air in - I would speak with the insulating contractor for your area on this as they have local experience with condensation.

Good points regarding the air flow with the 1" hard foam. You might be right, I'll talk to him.

Did you insulate the foundation and put in a floor barrier before pouring concrete?

I do not believe the concrete floor has any insulation.

On the garage doors, I have old 1950's wood sliding passing doors on our garage and their are bristle brushes I looked into (but haven't done anything as it's an unheated space). I found a lot of good info here on garage journal Sealing a sliding barn door... - The Garage Journal Board.

Carl

I don't think this is going to be a good enough option - still to leaky. Leaning towards getting a regular overhead door painted like a barn door, or possibly just put the garage door BEHIND the existing door, and have two doors to open. Either way, I think a well insulated overhead door is probably essential to maintain efficiency.

 

[AaronS]

Mine sleeps in an open (3 sided) barn.

 

[AaronS]

Mine sleeps in an open (3 sided) barn.

 

[walnutman]

Finally got my outbuilding erected. Went with a 30 deep x 40 wide 16ft high.
Had the building laying on the side for 3 years. Did the pad over a year ago. Finally erected this spring.

Decided on no doors for simplicity. Just keeping rain and sun mostly off the equipment.

Interesting how the shared driveway goes around the building. The house in the distance is the neighbor. The building is in the corner of our property... the road was already curved like that to go past the ponds on both sides.