Where the TC45D is NOT deluxe

[spencer200]

The post I made was parts of a New Holland service bulletin this is what they think the problem is.
Yes you can run at any RPM you like there is no problem there. You dont really have a governor.

 

[jinman]

Thanks for posting that your tractor has had the part fixed. That is exactly the news I need to hear and it will serve to build confidence in the NH community here that NH is trying to improve their product. Just yesterday I got this response from New Holland by email:

<font color=blue>
Dear Mr. Inman,

Thank you for contacting New Holland North America's Customer
Response Center.

To provide an answer to your inquiry we must request that you
provide some additional information. Please contact the Customer
Response Center at 1-888-290-7377 at your convenience, and provide
us with your mailing address and telephone number along with the
dealership that you are working with. With this additional
information we will be able to forward your information to the
correct contact. Please refer to file number 879833 when you call
to expedite your request. Our hours of operation are Monday -
Friday 8AM-8PM EST.

Thank you in advance for your cooperation and we look forward to
hearing from you soon.

Regards,

Jennifer
Customer Care Representative
New Holland North America, Inc.
1-888-290-7377
comments@newholland.com
</font color=blue>

I did not get the email until today, so I will contact Jennifer on Monday to see what she has to tell me. I hope it's positive, because I really don't need another negative. I also have a fix for the thermostat problem that DocHeb posted the picture of. I will have to draw an illustration of how I fixed my thermostat and then post the drawing for comments/discussion/ideas.

Finally,/w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif I have a weekend of pretty weather, so I'll be getting some seat time this weekend too./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[jinman]

<font color=blue>the jiggle pin may not become lodged in the thermostat</font color=blue>

Spencer, the engine manufacturers solution sounds like "smoke and mirrors" to me. I took a different approach to fixing my thermostat and they could take a lesson and modify their thermostat so this fix isn't necessary. Here is what I did: I found a piece of thin stainless steel wire (lockwire/safety wire) and put it around the pin on the opposite side of the jiggle pin's bulb. This reduced the length of the pin enough that the pin can no longer move far enough to get under the valve lip. I cut the wire with a couple of twist loops on it so it will not come loose and end up in the coolant system (although I doubt that such a small wire would ever cause a problem). Here is an illustration of how I fixed the thermostat. I don't know why the manufacturer doesn't just shorten the pin and have the problem fixed. They probably have their tooling and process set to do it as is and don't want to incur the expense of retooling./w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif

 

[Bayrat]

For those in need of a quick fix, I used to rap the thermostat housing with a rubber mallet if the ball stuck and that worked just fine /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif. I would have made the repair had I kept the tractor though!

 

[spencer200]

Hey I am not saying its right just showing you guys what we have to deal with as dealers when it comes to the engineers at New Holland. This is what they have sent us dealers to work with. It becomes very hard to keep the customer happy all the time when the support from the manufacturer is like this. The whole problem comes back to the bean counters in Italy. Some day they might put the customer first and not the bottom line. There is a lot of talk from New Holland about customer satisfaction, but if you guys where on my side of the table you would realize the support you get comes from your dealer so find yourselfs a good one. Most every thing we do as a dealer is a struggle to be properly compensated by NH.

 

[jinman]

Spencer, I didn't mean that you were using "smoke and mirrors," but rather the manufacturers are doing it. Gosh! If it weren't for great dealers, we'd be left out in the cold on many of these issues. Thanks to you and others like you, we can have confidence that our warranties will be honored.

BTW - I got my tractor completely back together and everthing works perfectly...and no spare parts left over./w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif Thank goodness I had the IPC. It sure came in handy./w3tcompact/icons/clever.gif

 

[spencer200]

Thanks! its nice to know we are appreciated once in a while! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[jtn]

tc35dforme,

A couple of easier ways to keep your engine warm:
1. Block off the front grill with cardboard. Use duct tape to secure it on the inside of the hood. Cutting off the airflow should help quite a bit.
2. Run the PTO. I know this sounds corny, especially if you don't have a implement on, but the extra demand on the engine will cause it to warm up better. This will greatly increase your fuel consumption but it helps.
3. Avoid letting your tractor idle. Don't set the RPM below about 1500.

I find that if I am using my tractor hard (plowing deep snow, loader work, mowing) I can warm it up in any weather but if I am only doing light duty work (joyride, moving firewood, etc) it will stay cold. I have never tried blocking the grill but I do let the PTO run and it helps a lot.

 

[wihakowiSteve]

jtn, I guess I have to take exception with your advice in the matter of Boomer diesels not warming up to effecient operating temps. At this point, I think that all agree it is a design defect that allows the coolant to recirc without having the resistance of the thermostat to heat it up to temp.

1) The old "cover the radiator" solution may work as a quick fix during extremely cold weather but leaves one open to all sorts of bad consequences if it is left in place when not needed or too much is covered and the engine really needs to cool down!
2) Anything that increases my fuel consumption or puts un-needed use, wear and tear on any tool I have is undesirable and unacceptabe to me. I try to tread lightly on this earth and have no moral or economic need to squander resources when better options are available.
3) Kind of a ditto to 2) but I even more strenuously object to running my rig at any more RPMs than are needed for the task at hand. 1500 RPMs is actually at the top end of what I like to run my TC35. If I can get by with 1200rpm (which I can for a lot of tasks) I do. As far as avoiding idle, unless someone can fill me in on the logic of that one, I won't even go there. Idle is idle -- it is the speed the engine is intended to run at when sitting idle or running minimal equipment or doing light duty work!!!

I guess this came out as something of a "flame". Apologies in advance to all it may offend. I just can't sit back while folks suggest potentially dangerous fixes and recommend wasting energy and resources.
Steve!!

 

[jinman]

Steve, I don't think a little disagreement is "flaming." I see it more as a healthy discussion of the issues. I agree with you on all accounts except running your tractor at low RPMs. I believe there is a danger of lugging down the engine and almost every engine manufacturer recommends against that. I typically run just below 2000 RPM when doing any kind of work. When I need more "uumph" I push it up to 2500. If your work is so light that there is no danger of lugging the engine at 1200 RPM, then you might be safe. /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif