Where the TC45D is NOT deluxe

[TBone]

JimI,

Sorry to hear about the problem with your tractor. The photos and explanations were excellent, however. Even though I don't own a Boomer I learned a lot from your post.

In the first pictures (with the tack welds) the assembly appeared to be plated for corrosion protection. If they were plated you lost most of this protection when you re-welded them (not that you had any other choice). If this is the case I would seriously consider having it re-plated or wait on the factory "fixed" ones that have been plated to prevent some serious rust problems.

I would definitely sent NH the entire thread if possible including the post that shows them losing a sale to Kubota. Maybe somebody will get the message.

Good luck and thanks again for sharing this with us.

TBone

 

[jinman]

Duane, here is the illustration from the IPC. The shaft with the castle nut is shown in green. I'll let you draw your own conclusions as to how it operates. It's sure hard to tell with no more detail than is shown here./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

 

[jinman]

T-bone, you are right about the plating and that it is removed by welding. If you look at the pictures, you can tell that the assembly was painted after it was welded. I'll have to keep an eye on it, but I think the paint job will really prevent most of the rust.

 

[JohnInCA]

Duane,

I never took the nut completely off, just loosened it until I was happy with the amount of force required to move the lever.

 

[tc35dforme]

Jinman,

Not that you need to hear more....but....I just took delivery of a TC35D which appears to have been put together during the later part of 2002. The hydro plates are fully welded to the shaft.

I did win the 'cool-running' engine issue and the crappy engine fitting for the coolant drain. 2 hours of run time at 60 degrees outdoor temp. and the needle barely got out of bed. I pinched off the bypass line and it started to creep up.

I guess I'll install a line valve and wait to see if the block fitting leaks.

All else looks good....so far.

 

[djradz]

Don't install the valve if your unit's under warranty. If you develop the common leak (unrelated to installing the valve) at the block end of things, NH will end up ripping the valve out and instead install a new drain fitting, install a new fitting and valve at the block, and disconnect the hose that drains the block at this block fitting/valve so that it no longer is connected to the common drain. What you end up with is two drain points. The radiator still drains through a new version of the old petcock and the new fitting in the block has its own valve and fitting. Therefore, two separate drains and no more thermostat bypass. The engine heats up as it should.

 

[Bill_Ryan]

I also experienced the same weld failure last year on my then new TC35D.
I posted the problem to this forum.
I also was out in the field when it happened...a real bummer when tractor won't move, but runs fine
My dealer in New Hampshire was excellent about servicing it (seeing as it was less than a year old).
Looks like someone either took a shortcut on welding the parts to the shaft or someone missed the final weld after the spot weld to hold them in place.
Hopefully NH will post a service announcement on this and check existing tractors..

Bill

 

[spencer200]

TEMP GAUGE READS COLD ALL THE TIME
Engine temperature always low.
Causes 1. The jiggle pin in the thermostat, part # SBA145206181, hooks onto the thermostat valve not allowing it to close. This allows coolant to flow through the valve freely and the engine never warms up to normal operating temperature in cold weather operation.2. Defective thermostat
Solutions Install the thermostat so the jiggle pin is located towards the valve cover. This is not a sure fix but the only solution at this time. B) It is felt by the engine supplier, that the coolant flow is causing the jiggle pin to be lodged in the area where it will hold the thermostat open. It is also felt the area towards the valve cover is a low flow area in the thermostat housing and by installing the thermostat with jiggle pin located in this area the jiggle pin may not become lodged in the thermostat.

This is may be the cause to some of the cold problems with your tractors no permanant solution has been found yet.

 

[DocHeb]

Thanks to Jinman in <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=nhown&Number=94047&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1#Post94047>My Brand New TC35D</A>

I believe this is what you're describing, and a permanent solution may be <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=nhown&Number=96660&Search=true&Forum=All_Forums&Words=.040&Match=And&Searchpage=0&Limit=50&Old=allposts&Main=26801>My Brand New TC35D</A>

 

[tc35dforme]

Spencer200,

I have reviewed the past posts on the thermostats and agree that a jammed pin will cause an issue, but, when I crimped the 1/4" common drain loop ( radiator to drain to block ), I got a marked rise in indicated temperature in about 3-5 minutes. This kind of rules out the thermostat as the cause. I don't see much harm in a second shutoff in series with the drain valve ??!!

I would suspect that installing the new block valve will be much more work and not justified unless I develop a leak at this fitting.

While I have your attention, how 'bout a stupid question. I assume the TC35D has a govenor to prevent over-rev. Since no redline is marked on the tach, can I assume that I can push the throttle to the top and let the engine control at maximum ( factory ) RPM ??

Thanks for your support.