lobsterman1
Bronze Member
Nice work Rocko ,and thanks for the pics .
Where would you put a tool box? (1705)
- Thread starter edgarrian
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1bayouboy
Member
I saw something similar to this in another thread I can't find...so not my original idea.....
But I'm going to add an ammo can as a tool box to each FEL support. Staring with a .30 cal can but may end up with a .50 cal can.
Used a 3/4" thick piece of black starboard (UV proof marine plastic) to make the spacers and stainless bolts. Just need to drill the holes in the
ammo cans and bolt them on. TSC for the MF Red paint. With one on each side should be enough room for enough tools and
should be waterproof. Should be relatively waterproof too. Still thinking about where to store some chains......something attached to the front brush guard looks possible.
But I'm going to add an ammo can as a tool box to each FEL support. Staring with a .30 cal can but may end up with a .50 cal can.
Used a 3/4" thick piece of black starboard (UV proof marine plastic) to make the spacers and stainless bolts. Just need to drill the holes in the
ammo cans and bolt them on. TSC for the MF Red paint. With one on each side should be enough room for enough tools and
should be waterproof. Should be relatively waterproof too. Still thinking about where to store some chains......something attached to the front brush guard looks possible.
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1bayouboy
Member
I will have to add a flat head 1/4x20 machine screw counter sunk at the forward point of the spacer to make sure it won't rattle.
Meanwhile I think these look potentially useful too...
Manual Canisters, Manual Holders, Tool Tube, Operators Manual Case
Meanwhile I think these look potentially useful too...
Manual Canisters, Manual Holders, Tool Tube, Operators Manual Case
beowulf
Veteran Member
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- Central California Foothills
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- Kubota L3410 HST, J Deere riding mower
I don't know if this would work out for you but it has been great for me. This is a link to a post of mine from Nov 2016 with pics of a toolbox I put on my Kubota L3410 behind the seat.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/customization/487561d1478821501-tool-box-added-pb101541-jpg
TEXT OF LINK:
kubota 3410. This tractor has a built in tool box behind the seat - a bit inconvenient and rather small. I wanted something a bit larger and also wanted something I could remove easily. I bolted a 2x4 to the lid of that built in tool box then screwed a larger board on top of that as a platform for a tool box (the 2x4 is needed first so there is clearance to open the lid of the existing tool box. I had a couple of L braces so I added those. I picked up an appropriately sized tool box at H Freight - $24 less the 20%.
The first problem I had was that the weight of the tool box on that platform (which was bolted to the lid) caused it to tilt backwards as the lid of the built in tool box opened to the rear. I could have bolted the lid of the built in tool box shut, but I wanted to keep that tool box available as well. So I added a spring to the lid (see pic) and now it all works well.
Details - decided to use a bungee to keep it more secure so added an eye hook in the rear for that. Painted the boards (platform) black. The L braces are not really needed as the bungee works fine to hold the box. Works out well and you can take the box off the tractor when you need to - which is convenient - no need to crawl up to get into it.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/customization/487561d1478821501-tool-box-added-pb101541-jpg
TEXT OF LINK:
kubota 3410. This tractor has a built in tool box behind the seat - a bit inconvenient and rather small. I wanted something a bit larger and also wanted something I could remove easily. I bolted a 2x4 to the lid of that built in tool box then screwed a larger board on top of that as a platform for a tool box (the 2x4 is needed first so there is clearance to open the lid of the existing tool box. I had a couple of L braces so I added those. I picked up an appropriately sized tool box at H Freight - $24 less the 20%.
The first problem I had was that the weight of the tool box on that platform (which was bolted to the lid) caused it to tilt backwards as the lid of the built in tool box opened to the rear. I could have bolted the lid of the built in tool box shut, but I wanted to keep that tool box available as well. So I added a spring to the lid (see pic) and now it all works well.
Details - decided to use a bungee to keep it more secure so added an eye hook in the rear for that. Painted the boards (platform) black. The L braces are not really needed as the bungee works fine to hold the box. Works out well and you can take the box off the tractor when you need to - which is convenient - no need to crawl up to get into it.
JWR
Elite Member
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- 4,029
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- So MD / WV
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- MF 2660 LP, 3 Kubota B2150, Kubota BX2200, MH Pacer, Gravely 5660, etc.
That's a pretty darn good idea DMW. There are several precautions: 1) No matter where you mount it I guarantee it will be in the way for something else you wanted to do later. 2) Vibration is much more of an enemy of tractor mounted tool boxes than most realize ahead of time. What seems solid turns out to be flimsy and floppy.
I find a small plastic tool box fastened down by bolts thru the floor boards or bungy cords or whatever is useful. I keep a chain in that. Then a steel box bolted to the ROPS had better space and served well.
I used the broader plate on my ROPS for a backing for the mounting of the tool box on this MF2660. Not ideal but it does hold the essentials, the Crescent wrench,the vise grips, the screw drivers, the spare bolts and clips, the old rag, you know. The heavy rubber straps were added to provide tension on it and minimize the flopping and vibration. I think on many tractors the floorboard is best if you can spare space. All mfrs need to include a toolbox as std equipment. A big one too, not the 1/2 pint size.
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AxleHub
Elite Member
Because tractors are used in different kinds of weather and too needs fall under "normal need" and " special purpose " job, I thought of doing something different but have yet to build it.
1. We all have rops.
2. Today, there are many versions and sizes of "hang storage" units. In the old days they first started their existence as closet shoe holders. But today they are made for gun cabinets, closets, garages, etc..
3. Some are made of vinyl - not good. But many are made of heavy cloth or canvas or even typar. They have pockets and some I've seen are built for holding rather heavy items like pistols or ammo clips or even garage wall hand tools.
4. Mount such a choice to the rops with some substantial hang hooks or D rings.
5. Purpose is the following: size the item to avoid any rops lights or directional.
Location is not blocking view or tractor access.
Take it with you when you are done or with you at the spot of need.
It's not out in bad weather.
It is with you when you want it.
You can have a special purpose one and another one for general purpose.
It doesn't make noise.
It does not add more boxiness or clunking things to your tractor.
It can be waterproof if you want.
It can fit your size rops.
You can have a tent and awning place make a special purpose one for you in any color or size.
It can even be a rollup style.
Tools won't slide out or fall out or bounce against each other.
The rops can easily hold 10 pounds or 30 pounds of tools.
Easy on, easy off, easy movement, but it won't "fall off".
Jmho .
1. We all have rops.
2. Today, there are many versions and sizes of "hang storage" units. In the old days they first started their existence as closet shoe holders. But today they are made for gun cabinets, closets, garages, etc..
3. Some are made of vinyl - not good. But many are made of heavy cloth or canvas or even typar. They have pockets and some I've seen are built for holding rather heavy items like pistols or ammo clips or even garage wall hand tools.
4. Mount such a choice to the rops with some substantial hang hooks or D rings.
5. Purpose is the following: size the item to avoid any rops lights or directional.
Location is not blocking view or tractor access.
Take it with you when you are done or with you at the spot of need.
It's not out in bad weather.
It is with you when you want it.
You can have a special purpose one and another one for general purpose.
It doesn't make noise.
It does not add more boxiness or clunking things to your tractor.
It can be waterproof if you want.
It can fit your size rops.
You can have a tent and awning place make a special purpose one for you in any color or size.
It can even be a rollup style.
Tools won't slide out or fall out or bounce against each other.
The rops can easily hold 10 pounds or 30 pounds of tools.
Easy on, easy off, easy movement, but it won't "fall off".
Jmho .
I ended up using a zip tie and a tool pouch. I have a hammer, utility knife, flat head and phillips screw driver, crescent wrench, pencil, pins for attachments. It worked out nicely. It also looks decent like that. I didn't like the mounting on the loader frame b/c i use it in the woods and don't want to worry about it. Behind the seat storage was a good idea but I didn't really see a good way to mount it. I should have takin a picture but I didn't and I'm away for work for a few weeks. I have the pouch on the inside of the ROPS. I keep mine in the garage so rain wasn't a factor in my choosing of a took pouch
AxleHub
Elite Member
Edwardian,
Your away for weeks right when the Midwest is getting lots of snow and your Massey is missing you lol.
Your away for weeks right when the Midwest is getting lots of snow and your Massey is missing you lol.
Brotherdan
Bronze Member
Since I need to keep the tractor as narrow as I can and use a backhoe, I bought a tool backpack and hang it over the seat. I also made a tool holder out of PVC pipe that slides into the loader crossmember.
1bayouboy
Member
Wanted to add another option for a bit of sealed storage......
I noticed the "cannisters" on my post hole digger and bush hog for storing manuals....turns out you can just buy them in several sizes and they are pretty inexpensive:
Manual Canisters, Manual Holders, Tool Tube, Operators Manual Case
I think I'll be mounting a couple to my ROPS above the turn signal lights.
I noticed the "cannisters" on my post hole digger and bush hog for storing manuals....turns out you can just buy them in several sizes and they are pretty inexpensive:
Manual Canisters, Manual Holders, Tool Tube, Operators Manual Case
I think I'll be mounting a couple to my ROPS above the turn signal lights.
Here is a pic of the tool pouch that i put on my tractor
Shared album - Google user - Google Photos
Shared album - Google user - Google Photos
JWR
Elite Member
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- So MD / WV
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- MF 2660 LP, 3 Kubota B2150, Kubota BX2200, MH Pacer, Gravely 5660, etc.
OK sitting still but those tools will fly all over the landscape in the active tractor usage I see.
Yesterday I went in the woods and moved a top dirt pile to the end of the driveway. Tillled the garden. Spread stone on the driveway. I lost zero tools. If your a sensible person when operating then you should never lose a tool. IF your in high gear going over bumps then yea you might lose a tool but during normal operation you should not lose any
AxleHub
Elite Member
Edwardian,
I see you're in Indiana. Is that the flat part of the state? Is the pouch fixed in place or can it swivel?
I see you're in Indiana. Is that the flat part of the state? Is the pouch fixed in place or can it swivel?
Nacademus
Gold Member
Anyone every try and mount something to the existing holes on the loader bracket if you have it? Maybe some through bolts with a strip of plate or washers into whatever you wish to mount? I was thinking about mounting a .30 cal ammo can I have in that location.
I would put a fender washer between the side of the can and bracket so the lid opens easily and plate in the inside a bit for rigidity.
This is where I mean. -expand pic to see the arrows
Also, this is what my .30 cal box looks like. I could go .50 cal for a little more space width-wise but I don't think I'll need to.
Thoughts?
Any reason why this is a BAD idea? Are those holes for something else?
I'll try and upload a bad photoshop of what I mean.
I would put a fender washer between the side of the can and bracket so the lid opens easily and plate in the inside a bit for rigidity.
This is where I mean. -expand pic to see the arrows
Also, this is what my .30 cal box looks like. I could go .50 cal for a little more space width-wise but I don't think I'll need to.
Thoughts?
Any reason why this is a BAD idea? Are those holes for something else?
I'll try and upload a bad photoshop of what I mean.
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Nacademus
Gold Member
It would look like this when done.
frugalangler
Gold Member
I don't see any reason why not, I'd like to see it finished, might want to do mine.
Nacademus
Gold Member
I didn't think how I was going to open through very much. I think the lid will contact the loader bracketry. Another type of box would be fine, but ammo cans have long lids. I may be able to angle it away or space it out far from the point of interference. I might try to do this tonight.
