Which tire chain style?

[sqdqo]

I am going to put tire chains on the front of my 4wd New Holland TN75DA with R1's. Main reason is for plowing and having the ability to steer the snow plow. Any opinions on chain type or style? Rears are loaded and a 3 pt blower on the rear.

 

[vtsnowedin]

What chains do you have on the rear or plan to put on the rear? I don't have front chains on as yet but have loaded R1s chained with aggressive ice chains "Talons" I believe and except for occasionally needing to brake steer when the fronts are on ice I can go anywhere I want. My owners manual says not to chain the front of mine as the chains will strike but as wide as I have the front set that is not a problem. Stress on the front drive line components is a concern and if I do need to chain the front it will be with none studded H ladder truck chains so that the front will give before the back and keep the front from trying to pull itself apart.

 

[sqdqo]

I don't have any on the rear. Was planning on just chaining the front. This is bad idea?

 

[xring100]

Are you on asphalt, concrete, or gravel. For paved surfaces duo grips are probably what your going to want for R1's road
masters will likely fall between the treads. V bars will add more traction but have the propensity to tear up the pavement. If money is no object and you want maximum traction look at aquiline talon chains the mpc's from auqiline are also good. I priced the talons out for my tractor at $940 for the rear tires decided i don't need that much traction. Duo grips were about $450 with shipping

Dave

 

[vtsnowedin]

I don't have any on the rear. Was planning on just chaining the front. This is bad idea?

The short answer is yes but on a site with this many members some will disagree. Just about everyone will agree that a good set of chains on the back with loaded tires and a blower on the 3PH will work great. Those big rear tires were meant to provide the main traction and the fronts are meant for steering.

 

[vtsnowedin]

These are working well for me. Not cheap new but I scored these off Craigslist.

 

[xring100]

These are working well for me. Not cheap new but I scored these off Craigslist.

Wow Looks like you could climb a tree "still standing" with those things i did not realize the studs were that tall.

Dave

 

[sqdqo]

I am on gravel, now hard packed snow & ice. I am putting a 9' hyrdo blade on the loader and am afraid I won't be able to steer with the blade pushing the front end around especially when angled. The road is 2-1/2 miles long. Too long to use the 3 pt blower on, I don't want any chiropracter bills. I was hoping just chaining the front end would be adequate as I can't afford rear chains right now. But I don't want to damage the front end either.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Wow Looks like you could climb a tree "still standing" with those things i did not realize the studs were that tall.

Dave

Yup I've had that feeling more then once. :cool2: And they are hardened steel to, even a diamond blade in a grinder takes time to cut a link. They should last me longer them Me will last me.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I am on gravel, now hard packed snow & ice. I am putting a 9' hyrdo blade on the loader and am afraid I won't be able to steer with the blade pushing the front end around especially when angled. The road is 2-1/2 miles long. Too long to use the 3 pt blower on, I don't want any chiropracter bills. I was hoping just chaining the front end would be adequate as I can't afford rear chains right now. But I don't want to damage the front end either.

I hear you on all of that, especially the 2 1/2 miles looking backward. My 0.6 miles is more then I want to do with my neck twisted so I picked up an 8 ft. Fisher with side wings. It doesn't push me sideways in normal snow but does if I'm rolling a frozen bank back.
Rear chains are expensive, ones like mine in 13.9x28 run about $1100 new but they are worth it as they will save you time and fuel when you can go all the way up and all the way back without spinning a tire. As fuel prices climb the value of your chains will go up each year.
I don't know what to tell you about just doing the fronts, I would check your owners manual and talk to the mechanics at your dealership to see if there is a warranty voiding problem with doing this. An early front end rebuild will cost much more then a set of rear chains and will come at the worst time as far as tractor needs go. On the other hand an operator with enough sense to let off when it starts spinning and go easy when the wheels are turned to the stops could go for years if the front end is heavy enough to begin with.

 

[CJONE]

Duos will shake you out of the cab. I have 2 link V-bar ladders and pulled them off because of vibration going down the road. If you were just plowing and working around the yard thay would be fine. I just deal with the frontend pushing or sliding. The rears are chained and I have no problem with traction. I may try standard 2 link ladders on the front but have not got there yet. CJ

 

[kco]

I am on gravel, now hard packed snow & ice. I am putting a 9' hyrdo blade on the loader and am afraid I won't be able to steer with the blade pushing the front end around especially when angled. The road is 2-1/2 miles long. Too long to use the 3 pt blower on, I don't want any chiropracter bills. I was hoping just chaining the front end would be adequate as I can't afford rear chains right now. But I don't want to damage the front end either.

One thing you might consider is a pull-type rear blower.

 

[xring100]

These are working well for me. Not cheap new but I scored these off Craigslist.

How do those chains ride at speed 10 - 15 mph are they better than the duo grips

Dave

 

[vtsnowedin]

How do those chains ride at speed 10 - 15 mph are they better than the duo grips

Dave

I have never driven a machine with duo grips so can't compare. The one time I had mine out on the town road the road was a mass or frozen ruts so running in high gear was not an option. I am sure they are a world better then the ring stye Canadian chains I had on my previous tractor. Those were like riding on an eight sided solid wheel.

 

[lungdoc]

I have Duo-grips on the rear and 4-link with V-bar on the front. Works well for me, the ride's a bit rough on hard stuff but fine on snowpack and irrelevant at the speeds I use for blowing.

 

[crazyal]

These are working well for me. Not cheap new but I scored these off Craigslist.

Not that it makes much of a difference but it looks like you have the Tellesfdal Super chains. The importer is over in NH. I got the exact same chains from a Kubota dealer up near Irasburg. The salesman passes through the area once a week and will drop them off to the dealer for free. If you ever need a part you should be able to get it real easy.
http://www.tooriistamarket.ee/files/tarvikud/tarvikud%20ENG/04.01.2011/T14_jaaketjut.pdf

 

[vtsnowedin]

Not that it makes much of a difference but it looks like you have the Tellesfdal Super chains. The importer is over in NH. I got the exact same chains from a Kubota dealer up near Irasburg. The salesman passes through the area once a week and will drop them off to the dealer for free. If you ever need a part you should be able to get it real easy.
http://www.tooriistamarket.ee/files/tarvikud/tarvikud%20ENG/04.01.2011/T14_jaaketjut.pdf

They very well could be. I bought them used without tags or instructions. As you say though not much difference. Shoppers should check them both for price etc.
Studded Aquiline Ice Chains

 

[crazyal]

I don't know if it's just the New England area or wider but having the salesman drop them off made the difference. If I remember correctly the crate weighed over 200lbs.