It is on the right rear fender, it looks like it sticks out from the fender a ways.
Buying Advice Why 1026R vs 2320?
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It is on the right rear fender, it looks like it sticks out from the fender a ways.
jcmseven
Veteran Member
I agree. Over the years I have had and run multiple JD first year products without any issue. In fact, I am not so sure they are not better with regard to attention to detail. Love em or not, JD has about 500 years of reputation riding on this type equipment and they generally take that quite seriously. One exception to this would be the el cheapo lawn tractors. If one buys an L100 at Lowe's in the first year, he or she may be rolling the dice a little there.
John M
John M
the fat kid
Bronze Member
Sooooo. Did you get one???
OP
BentTwigBrew
New member
I put off my tractor purchasing for a little while. I was lucky enough to be loaned my uncles Ford 555B TLB in April and there are no plans as of now to return it.
The Ford is much bigger and more powerful than these CUT's which has me rethinking my original intentions of owning a small tractor. Obviously, I don't want something as large as the 555 Ford forever, but I definitely want something more powerful than the 1026R.
Now that I have gotten used to this old ford and gotten my hands dirty a bit working on it...I kind of want to go the used route. I really like the Ford "20 or 10 series". I think a used 1910, 1920, 2110, 2120 with a loader would be ideal.
Will keep everybody posted =)
The Ford is much bigger and more powerful than these CUT's which has me rethinking my original intentions of owning a small tractor. Obviously, I don't want something as large as the 555 Ford forever, but I definitely want something more powerful than the 1026R.
Now that I have gotten used to this old ford and gotten my hands dirty a bit working on it...I kind of want to go the used route. I really like the Ford "20 or 10 series". I think a used 1910, 1920, 2110, 2120 with a loader would be ideal.
Will keep everybody posted =)
the fat kid
Bronze Member
Wish I had that option. I just got back from dealer and thought the same but decided to still wait for the 1026. There is only 2 hp difference at the pto and it's only 200 pnds lighter. But it's 4500 less. (all compared to the 2520). So I figured I could use that 4500 for a snowthrower or tiller!!
BlueHorseFarm
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Just joined. I am a first-time horse property owner - 24.5 acres (half is hay field and my neighbor cuts and bails for half the crop). I need to mow the lawn (about 3 acres) and 5 pastures, drag the outdoor arena, and plow the occasional winter snow storm. I have never driven a tractor and know very little about them. I am considering the JD 1026R with 60" 7-iron mower, loader, and the Frontier arena drag. Any advice?
kennyd
Advertiser
Welcome to TBN:thumbsup:
My advice: Get a 3x20 series minimum for what you described.
BlueHorseFarm:
One thing I've learned over the years... listen to KennyD.
I've lost a lot of money to tractors and the advice he's giving isn't fascicious (spelling??), wise-assed or cunning. It's insightful. And based on real-world experience.
You have enough property to justify a way bigger tractor than a 1026r - not because it's satisfying to buy big - but because chances are that you'll get the subcompact and very, very soonafter realize it's grossly inadequate for the property you own. And only a few thousand dollars less than the right tractor for the job.
My advice would be to drop $250 and get some kind of local rental company to drop off a tractor/loader/backhoe off at your place for a weekend - like a B26 or 110 or some other such device. Because you'll quickly realize that they're: (1) easy to operate; (2) have adequate grunt to pick up and move things that you're going to have to deal with in the coming years; and (3) worth every dime that you'd spend because of the satisfaction you'll get out of completing tasks that are necessary - not desired - around your horse property.
One thing I've learned over the years... listen to KennyD.
I've lost a lot of money to tractors and the advice he's giving isn't fascicious (spelling??), wise-assed or cunning. It's insightful. And based on real-world experience.
You have enough property to justify a way bigger tractor than a 1026r - not because it's satisfying to buy big - but because chances are that you'll get the subcompact and very, very soonafter realize it's grossly inadequate for the property you own. And only a few thousand dollars less than the right tractor for the job.
My advice would be to drop $250 and get some kind of local rental company to drop off a tractor/loader/backhoe off at your place for a weekend - like a B26 or 110 or some other such device. Because you'll quickly realize that they're: (1) easy to operate; (2) have adequate grunt to pick up and move things that you're going to have to deal with in the coming years; and (3) worth every dime that you'd spend because of the satisfaction you'll get out of completing tasks that are necessary - not desired - around your horse property.
BlueHorseFarm
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Thank you. I was hoping smaller would be better, not bigger would be better! I will not have round bales - just square - that I thought I could move, when needed, with the 1026R loader. The 5 pastures are 1-2 acres each, so not very large. I also have a very small indoor arena (about 60' x 100') so need a tractor that can maneuver in it to harrow the footing (my Chevy Avalanche and a 4x4 pasture drag could not maneuver in the small indoor arena). I will now read up on other tractor models. I'm pretty sure I will stick w John Deere due to reputation and a dealer is about 6 miles from my farm. Thanks again.
urbandeere2520
Bronze Member
Um, I was in the market for a 1026R late 2010 and early 2011... I waited and waited but could wait no longer. I went to my local JD dealer in late March and test drove the 2305, 2320 and 2520... The 2320 and 2520 looked huge compared to the 2305, and given my small acreage, I was thinking the smaller 2305 would be more than enough tractor.
Fast forward a month, the $2k incentive on the larger tractors, I decided to purchase the 2520 since someone told me to buy at least one size larger than you think you need. The price differential between the 1026R and 2520 was small given the discounts. Okay, I bought two sizes up, because of the better hydraulics on the 2520.
I'm so very glad I took this advice, since my 2520 has more than exceeded my expectations, very responsive hydraulics, and when properly adjusted, it can do a great job mowing the grass, yep just 4,000 square feet of it, and the tractor turns on a dime. Did I mention I created a 200' long gravel drive (15 tons gravel) in just a few hours... couldn't do that with the little 1026R...
Bottom line... buy one tractor up than you think you'll need... no regrets, and I added my own tool box for $25 and 30 minutes effort.
Fast forward a month, the $2k incentive on the larger tractors, I decided to purchase the 2520 since someone told me to buy at least one size larger than you think you need. The price differential between the 1026R and 2520 was small given the discounts. Okay, I bought two sizes up, because of the better hydraulics on the 2520.
I'm so very glad I took this advice, since my 2520 has more than exceeded my expectations, very responsive hydraulics, and when properly adjusted, it can do a great job mowing the grass, yep just 4,000 square feet of it, and the tractor turns on a dime. Did I mention I created a 200' long gravel drive (15 tons gravel) in just a few hours... couldn't do that with the little 1026R...
Bottom line... buy one tractor up than you think you'll need... no regrets, and I added my own tool box for $25 and 30 minutes effort.
dmay
Gold Member
So far you have stated your horse acreage tractor needs are minimal. Mow a small acre yard site & pastures and drag the pasture and arena. A 1026R is quite capable of all these.
For your hay you have this custom cut and baled for you in squares. I'll assume you mean small square bales. Correct? If yes, then you can carry a small square bale (or two) in a 1026R FEL bucket. If you want to carry more bales I suggest you consider FEL pallet forks.
If you ever thought to do your own hay then you would need a larger tractor. As Kenny mentioned a 3x20 minimum.
PioneerMan
Silver Member
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Are 3x20 hay capable? I want to do small hay work but heard the 4000 series are much better, cast iron I guess. Ok I don't mean to hijack...
BlueHorseFarm
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Thank you all for your advice. After lots of reading, comments on this site, etc. I decided to do the middle road between the 1026R and the 3000 series and get a John Deere 2720 with a 200CX loader and a 62" midmount mower. The entire package will be available by the end of August - the the real fun starts! Thanks again.
6dog
Silver Member
The 2720 is a nice machine. Congrats!
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
urbandeere2520
Bronze Member
You'll love this tractor.... larger than a 1000 series, smaller than a 3000 series... and you'll be smiling by mid-September! Congrats...
BlueHorseFarm
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Glad everyone likes my decision. It was also helpful that the local John Deere dealer had a 1XXX, a 2XXX, and a 3XXX next to each other in a row so I could easily get a feeling for size, which was important to me as a timid first-time tractor buyer/user. The 1XXX looked like a toy and the 3XXX looked like a monster. The 2720 looked just right. 
I already have a list of chores for the tractor when it is delivered.
I already have a list of chores for the tractor when it is delivered.elroy4455
Member
Our shop just PDI'd ('set up and prepped' in shop speak) a 1023e with a H120 loader and 60D auto connect drive over deck on Thursday. Although I did not actually attach the deck myself, I watched our tech do it- seems like Deere did their homework with the design.
As for the 2320 vs 1023e or 1026R, I personally like the 200CX loader mounting more than the H120 loader, the 200CX is a quick connect, which can be done from the seat. 2320 has individual brakes, larger tires for greater flotation and more ground clearance. The 2320's front axle has 54% more front axle capacity than either the 1023e or 1026R. The 2320 rated engine RPM at PTO speed is 3000 RPM compared to the 1000's 3200 RPM, 6% slower- meaning less wear. The 2320 3 pt hitch lifting capacity is 68% more, plus the 2320 and 1026R have 'Select positioning' control, compared to the primitive 'Select' control on the 1023e.
IMO, the new styling on the 1023e and 1026R are OK, looks like a pissed off green Camaro from the front. The 200CX loader curved boom has better visibility than the D / H120 loaders.
With either choice, you'll have a nice John Deere in your yard!
As for the 2320 vs 1023e or 1026R, I personally like the 200CX loader mounting more than the H120 loader, the 200CX is a quick connect, which can be done from the seat. 2320 has individual brakes, larger tires for greater flotation and more ground clearance. The 2320's front axle has 54% more front axle capacity than either the 1023e or 1026R. The 2320 rated engine RPM at PTO speed is 3000 RPM compared to the 1000's 3200 RPM, 6% slower- meaning less wear. The 2320 3 pt hitch lifting capacity is 68% more, plus the 2320 and 1026R have 'Select positioning' control, compared to the primitive 'Select' control on the 1023e.
IMO, the new styling on the 1023e and 1026R are OK, looks like a pissed off green Camaro from the front. The 200CX loader curved boom has better visibility than the D / H120 loaders.
With either choice, you'll have a nice John Deere in your yard!
That is a great piece of reading!
