Why have a tail wheel on a small rotary cutter ??

[wowwee]

I just got a 48" rotary cutter and can't see much of a purpose for the tail wheel. I'm always fidgeting with the three point height anyway, my three point hitch isn't a position control type. So I was thinking of just getting rid of the tail wheel and bracket, makes it more manuverable under trees too. What do you think?

Thanks, Dale

 

[Bird]

The tail wheel supporting the back end of the cutter takes a lot of pressure off your 3-point hitch. Maybe that's not too important, but I always wanted the tail wheel to carry that load, so no way I'd get rid of it. I don't know just how level the terrain is that you'll be mowing, but if it varies at all, the tail wheel helps to keep the blade about the same height off the ground so you get a more uniform cut.

 

[pacerron]

I just got a 48" rotary cutter and can't see much of a purpose for the tail wheel. I'm always fidgeting with the three point height anyway, my three point hitch isn't a position control type. So I was thinking of just getting rid of the tail wheel and bracket, makes it more manuverable under trees too. What do you think?

Thanks, Dale

Rotary cutters with tail wheels attach to the 3 point system in the front for raising while transporting but normally have a couple adjustable length chains from the front of the mower deck or frame that attach to brackets on the tractor that are pinned through the spare mounting hole on the tractor for the top link. The cutting height is then maintained by the chain length not the 3 point hitch. No fidgeting with the 3 point position control required except for transporting or creating slack in the chains to change the height for a different cutting requirement.
The rear wheel should be adjusted so the deck and blade are higher in the back than the front. This keeps the blade from throwing grass forward and by having the blade higher in the back much less tractor power is required than when the blade is parallel to the ground. The rear wheel also helps prevent scalping.

 

[WM75Guy]

The tail wheel not only helps prevent scalping but if you bottom out the cutter across rough ground you will shear bolts or slip the clutch. The tail wheel allows for backing up when the ground slopes up lets the cutter ride up the slope.

 

[k0ua]

Yep first time you back up and the terrain is a little higher than where the tractor is , you will wish for that tail wheel back as the cutter eats dirt, and shears the pin.

James K0UA

 

[wowwee]

Well, thanks for the info. I guess first of all I don't understand how the cutter can float at all. The only thing that would make the front of the cutter lift without using the three point is the front edges would skid on the ground and it would be pushed up, is that how it is supposed to work? No chains or support system. It's a King Kutter. When reading the instructions it said to adjust the cutter level for a more complete cut. When I adjust the top link to make the cutter level at say about 4 inches off of the ground, there is very little travel at the attatchment point on the cutter and if I would back into a hill forcing the rear of the cutter up, I think it might try "compressing" the top link and bend it. I need to look at some pictures or video of how other people have their cutters hooked up.

 

[pacerron]

Yep first time you back up and the terrain is a little higher than where the tractor is , you will wish for that tail wheel back as the cutter eats dirt, and shears the pin.

James K0UA

Yep and yep!
In addition, with the tractor and cutter wheel on level ground be sure the wheel is turned as it would be going forward and your front cutting height is set, either by the chains being tight or the 3 pt. lower lift arms; then lengthen your top link a few turns so the bracket on the mower the top link is attached to has a few inches of free movement. This allows the caster to stay on the ground when going over ridges or backing up or down an incline to give you an even cut.
Last of all, if you have sway bars or chains on your lower links, when the mower is centered, adjust them so there is very little sway allowed. When you corner at much speed without controlling sway on a mower there are tremendous stresses on your PTO shaft to the mower. Bad things can happen
to interrupt your mowing.

 

[Nik]

I often unhook the top link from the mower after transporting it to the are to be cut. This lets the front of the mower float over uneven terrain and small ditches.

 

[pacerron]

Well, thanks for the info. I guess first of all I don't understand how the cutter can float at all. The only thing that would make the front of the cutter lift without using the three point is the front edges would skid on the ground and it would be pushed up, is that how it is supposed to work? No chains or support system. It's a King Kutter. When reading the instructions it said to adjust the cutter level for a more complete cut. When I adjust the top link to make the cutter level at say about 4 inches off of the ground, there is very little travel at the attatchment point on the cutter and if I would back into a hill forcing the rear of the cutter up, I think it might try "compressing" the top link and bend it. I need to look at some pictures or video of how other people have their cutters hooked up.

I explained about the top link slop you need and why in the answer below your question. We must have been typing at the same time and you beat me done..l I'm too long winded:laughing:
If your mower didn't come with front chains, they may be an option.
If not you could make them or you will have to mess with your bottom link height until you get the cutting height you want with the back caster on the ground. You can mess with your lift handle and your draft control handle together to try to get your bottom links to stay put but your hydraulics will probably let them go down in a little while. Chains are so much better, so simple, and take the stress off your lower links.
A bushog type mower is not a finish mower. The blades are made not sharp
on purpose so they will stand up to brush, tree limbs and other crud found along tree lines. The fact that they will bruise cut or chop tall grass and weeds is just an extra.
Since your book says make the blade level, try that first, but that is not normal for even your push lawnmower. Single blades do a better job when they cut on half the rotation and have room to clear the debris with the other. On a tractor with a bushog it is also a matter of safety.
you don't want sticks and stones hitting you in the back of your head or even worse your eyes if you are looking back.

 

[bcp]

I guess first of all I don't understand how the cutter can float at all.

Maybe you are missing the link which allows the float, in the red square.

King Kutter Rotary Kutter — 48in., 40 HP, Model L-48-40-P | 3-Point Category 1 Implements | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[k0ua]

I have that very rotary cutter, and you don't want it to be level. Set the rear wheel to just kiss the ground when it is at the normal height you want to mow at. The mower will be in a front down attitude. This will clear the debris and actually mow much better. With at swinging link it will float up nicely when you back up a hill.

James K0UA

 

[pacerron]

I often unhook the top link from the mower after transporting it to the are to be cut. This lets the front of the mower float over uneven terrain and small ditches.

A problem might occur if the top link is completely unhooked if you have a pond or other steep incline. I back down some of the banks to the water edge until the wheel is actually over the water. The mower rear could possibly cock down far enough that the PTO drive shaft between the tractor and mower would pull apart. The end connected to the tractor would buckle at the universal and the other flopping, spinning end could do some serious damage.
Conversely, backing up the steep rear side of the dam from the bottom or similar hill could jam the PTO shaft together and stick it or damage the gearbox.
That is why the center link should be attached but with some slack.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I use the chains attached at the lift arm and bottom of the top link at the tractor to control the height at the front of the bush hog when using my Yanmar because I could never get it adjusted properly after raising and lowering without stopping and looking. It was always too high or low so I put the chains on and just dropped the lift arms down so they float. All the weight is carried on the tail wheel and the chains that are attached to the top link attachment point on the tractor. That keeps everything floating till I am ready to lift it. I can keep my top link loose so the back of the bush hog will lift without binding on the top link. I can go thru deep ditches, back up 30 degree slopes like on my pond dike and not bind anything and the chains keep it at the exact height that I want. You can buy them at farm supplies like Atwoods and tractor supply. You also dont want the BH front skids dragging on the ground. NOT only does it leave ugly marks in your pasture, but it wears out the skids very quickly.

Tail wheel should always be adjusted higher in back than in front for heavy hogging to allow the trash to clear easier. It should never be lower in back than the front in any case. Level would be ok if you wanted to really shred the material, but it is going to cost you some extra power and fuel to turn in that way as you are chopping and rechopping the forage material.

 

[pacerron]

I use the chains attached at the lift arm and bottom of the top link at the tractor to control the height at the front of the bush hog when using my Yanmar because I could never get it adjusted properly after raising and lowering without stopping and looking. It was always too high or low so I put the chains on and just dropped the lift arms down so they float. All the weight is carried on the tail wheel and the chains that are attached to the top link attachment point on the tractor. That keeps everything floating till I am ready to lift it. I can keep my top link loose so the back of the bush hog will lift without binding on the top link. I can go thru deep ditches, back up 30 degree slopes like on my pond dike and not bind anything and the chains keep it at the exact height that I want. You can buy them at farm supplies like Atwoods and tractor supply. You also dont want the BH front skids dragging on the ground. NOT only does it leave ugly marks in your pasture, but it wears out the skids very quickly.

Tail wheel should always be adjusted higher in back than in front for heavy hogging to allow the trash to clear easier. It should never be lower in back than the front in any case. Level would be ok if you wanted to really shred the material, but it is going to cost you some extra power and fuel to turn in that way as you are chopping and rechopping the forage material.

Gary,
That is a good summary of what we all have been trying to explain to him over the last 2 pages.
I noticed this morning that "bcp" included a link to the King Cutter manual.
It indicates at the top of page 21 that the back should be 2" higher than the front. Where he got the level deck idea from must have been where they were talking about putting oil in the gearbox, I guess.
The top bracket on the mower for the top link, as pointed out by "bcp" may be his problem. The diagram shows it pointing vertical. He may have it in that position and bolted tight. On my Woods 6' rotary mower the top link bracket
is loose so the top link can be given slack. I though they all worked in a similar way. In his mower diagram the part is named " swivel yoke assembly" so that means the same thing in my English.
I hope he will read the part about attaching the anti-rotation chain for the PTO shaft shield. I was amazed a while back at how many folks on this forum didn't know the purpose, didn't have them on their mowers and other equipment either because they took them off or had purchased used equipment that didn't have them.

 

[TripleR]

There are a lot of interesting threads on this, but I can't seem to find the right ones when I need them. I seem to remember one dealing with the evolution of the rotary cutter with the first ones not having a tail wheel. I believe Soulisphil runs one without though it is a newer production; maybe I am "misremembering".

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/39691-rear-wheel-bush-hog.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/82987-do-i-really-need-tail.html

 

[jeff9366]

I use a forestry CABLE SLIDER AND GRAB LINK on "second pin" of Top Link to adjust chain length to rotary mower deck. <Kubota B3300SU + old King Kutter 48" Rotary Mower>

These assemblies are difficult to find so following are two vender links:

Look on the lower half of SLF page below.

Silver Lake Fabrication - Belmont, NH - 603-630-5658 - CHOKER CHAINS, CABLES, HOOKS, AND SUPPLIES

SLF's web page is cranky; at least when accessed from an Apple. Hence the telephone number: (603) 630-5658

SLF does not accept credit cards (June 2012) however they do invoice through PAYPAL.

3/8" Grab Link Assembly has 1" collar inner diameter; perfect for Category 1 pins.

5/16" Grab Link Assembly has 1/2" collar inner diameter.
((I do NOT have first hand experience with 5/16" assembly.))

Sheldon Hill Forestry Supplies Inc.: CHOKE GLIDER

If I were running either of these businesses I would list these assemblies on eBay.

 

[jeff9366]

Here is second fixture idea for adjusting chain lengths:

B/A Pear Link with 5/16in. Grab hooks 4700-Lb. Safe Working Load, 2ft.L x 8in.W, Model# N711-8E | Tow Chains, Ropes + Straps | Northern Tool + Equipment

I have no personal experience with this assembly; it was another idea I researched before deciding on 3/8" Cable Slider & Grab Link from Silver Lake Fabrication in immediately preceding post.

NORTHERN TOOL PEAR LINKS + GRAB HOOKS ASSEMBLY available on eBay.

 

[Jd5203]

I just got a 48" rotary cutter and can't see much of a purpose for the tail wheel. I'm always fidgeting with the three point height anyway, my three point hitch isn't a position control type. So I was thinking of just getting rid of the tail wheel and bracket, makes it more manuverable under trees too. What do you think?

Thanks, Dale

Your tail wheel takes a tremendous amount of stress off your three point hitch. Also it helps the brush hog to float with the ground more easily. Ex. If your going on flat ground and start going up a steep hill your tail wheel keeps the rear end from digging into the ground and destroying your blades. The companies put Hesse on here for a reason, if they did not think it was necessary they would have left it off the design. KEEP IT ON!!!