Why use a 30W synthetic?

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> a 30w synthetic is a silly idea only amsoil would come up with </font>
Earlier messages in this thread indicate why some people might use, did use or are using a straight weight oil. I imagine they're glad Amsoil makes one.

<font color="blue">cause there base oils will crumble and crud up</font>
Just curious, do you have a source for this information?

<font color="blue">cause they can't make a good 0w 5w 30 weight oil </font>
In the absence of punctuation, I wasn't sure exactly what oil viscosity range you were referring to. So, I thought I'd list all the synthetic oils Amsoil makes.

0W-30
0W-40
5W-20
5W-30
10W-30
10W-40
15W-40
20W-50

Which one of these are not good?

 

[gsxr1100]

There really is no need for a 30w oil but as with today’s world, the key is diversity. You have to get yourself in more markets and the 30w is not to far off from other grade oils in that class.

As to “it is a silly idea” someone said maybe they should look at the world and there is a reason for everything. I do not think a million-dollar company would do something without good cause or justification.

So people want just the bare minimum, while others want the best or better stuff. That is what makes the world go round.

Some chemical engineer told me that a straight 30w is closer to the true weight without additives and thus better. I agree to some point but for one, I want the additives for longevity and #2, I do with what works on my machines. My machines cost $$$ and I do not put Wal-Mart oil in them! Oil viscosity goes down over time, nothing new here ….example: my 15-40 goes down to a 30w over time. Not rocket science here.

Use what oil makes you happy. Case closed.

 

[KubotaBling]

Just cause they make it doesn't mean it's needed. Yes 20 yrs ago we needed a 30w oil for trucks and air cooled engines. These days multi-grade oils will do anything straight oils and yes if u do a extreme tests any oil will shear down. But in realworld realistical applicatons a multi-grade 0w or 5w 30 will do anything a 30w will do. PERIOD... so if ur into 20yr old junk like amsoils technology yah u need 2 have a straight grade oil. LOL. i hate 2 even post when it says amsoil.. i know the cult following. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

I agree with some of your post but I tend to side with a companies facts other then some peoples options.

They, Amsoil make products to make money. Plus there are “old school” people (lots of them) that do not want to change. Enough so that they make a product for them. Hell, look at the people that still use regular oil! Lots of them, even though high-class cars (not Ford or GM) have synthetic from the factory! What does that tell you.

I am not in their cult as you poorly stated, but they know a hell of a lot more then you in regards to oil here. They know what works and what sells. There is a reason for it. Also their 30w I believe is cheaper and geared toward people who do not extend drains or drain sooner in some applications.

So unless you can prove some company wrong (with data & you have a beter chance of landing on Mars here) I would like to see data. But your post are un-educated options and nothing fact related. Again lets see some facts here.

They, Amsoil are not old technology. Dial-up is old technology along with regular oil here. Also everyone in the world is coping them in the last 5-yeats…get the hint.

Just to close I know Amsoil is an MLM like 99.9999% of business out there. You just don’t see it or don’t want to see it. It is the same everywhere…Nothing new nor is this debate. itself.

If you are right KubotaBling lets see the figures, test results or data. Without it, you know the saying of options…..

 

[MikePA]

I simply asked you to quote your source for your statements about Amsoil so I could read more about it. If you do not have a source, and are simply stating your opinion, just say so.

 

[gsxr1100]

MikePA- Do not argue with KubotaBling. wasting your time.

Also i do not trust internet data since anyone can post anything. It is a wild west show....Hell I could post a webpage if that makes anyone fell better! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

As I stated before....you know the saying of options…..

 

[Junkman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( .......................Most engine damage occurs at startup. It makes A LOT of sense to have an oil with low vis characteristics at the cold startup conditions but have a higher vis at higher temperatures. Doubt you need much higher than 30w at high temperature, but most diesels could probably benefit by having 40w at higher temperatures because they put more load on the bearings to "squish" the oil out.

Ralph )</font>

Ralph......

It befuddles me to understand why you recommended in the Kubota Owning/Operating Forum in the post "BX2200 starts rough when cold" to <font color="blue"> "Open the throttle up on that sucker, about 1/3 to maybe as much as 1/2 way. Be sure you have some 5wxx or 0wxx oil in there to ensure oil gets to your valve train quickly under higher rpm startup. Actually, probably 10wxx at the 20ish temps you mention ought to be good enough." </font> when you recognize that <font color="blue"> "Most engine damage occurs at startup." </font>
Your advise to rev a cold engine just doesn't make any sense, at least not to me!
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[RalphVa]

"Revving" a tractor engine isn't much. We're talking about perhaps 3,500 rpm max. governed speed. I don't see any problem with running it between say, idle at about 700 rpm, and half speed at 1750 rpm. I'm not talking about high speeds here, perfectly safe even on a stone cold engine.

Ralph

 

[KubotaBling]

practicing oil analyisis sept 03 edition..
lubrication & maintance march 03 edition..

I don't have time to repost these are some of my sources.. and i agree synthetics are warrantied yet some are just a waste of money.

30w synthetic fits into the waste of $$$ buy a 0w30 5w30

 

[gsxr1100]

As to your post, Is this class 101 in oil analysis!!!…Never mind the other worthless reference. Get some data from car or tractor manufactures, then post.