Will the Ceiling Collapse?

[steveessie]

I am in the process of dividing my pole barn into a work/play area. I have another thread here seeking information about insulating:
Insulating My Pole Barn - need help - Page 2 (these are pics of the inside and the frame work I'm talking about in the text below)

My pole barn is 30x60, so my area will be 30x30. As with most pole barns, the trusses are not typically made for bearing weight.

I am making a ceiling using 2x4's (16"OC) between the trusses - it is 9ft between the joists (is that what the lower 2x6 of a truss is called?). I am then insulating with faced rolls and then plan on hanging drywall to the 2x4's.

DO I NEED TO WORRY ABOUT THE TRUSSES/JOISTS NOT BEING ABLE TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE CEILING?

The trusses are framed and attached to either 2x6's or 2'x4's using those galvanzied steel connector plates. Will the weight of the 2x4's, insulation, and drywall cause a problem for my ceiling?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[teejk]

I think the trusses are engineered to handle 5/8" drywall and insulation (that's a minimum...the trusses just don't appreciate heavy loads from above like a loft or attic although you can get them if you plan ahead).

The weight of your 2x4's is nothing. If you are really worried about it (I wouldn't be) they make a ceiling drywall in 1/2" now...actually easier to handle plus you will get to use your scraps anywhere else you have 1/2 rock.

 

[plykins]

I am no engineer, but it looks plenty stout to me. I have built my shop, added on a bedroom to my house, and built several storage sheds, and all are still standing. From what I see, I would not hesitate to insulate and rock it.

 

[/pine]

FWIW...the bottom member of a truss is a "bottom chord"

If you asked the engineer that originally designed the trusses they would most likely tell you they were not designed to carry additional framing but I'm guessing it would be fine...use light-weight sheetrock (25% lighter than regular 1/2 boards...

 

[teejk]

FWIW...the bottom member of a truss is a "bottom chord"

If you asked the engineer that originally designed the trusses they would most likely tell you they were not designed to carry additional framing but I'm guessing it would be fine...use light-weight sheetrock (25% lighter than regular 1/2 boards...

not to argue with you but trusses are not designed on a project by project basis (they are mass produced) and I'm sure are way over-engineered to handle drop weight. All he is proposing to do is add a few 2x4 "nailers" which weigh nothing. as for the rock, ceilings used to use 5/8ths to eliminate "waves". The new trend is towards a special 1/2 ceiling board that is stiffer. I don't think it is much lighter than standard 1/2 board. And I'll add that code might still require 5/8" "typeX" for fire retardant although that might have changed now also. Simple Google search for US Gypsum should give you the details.

 

[steveessie]

I was going to just go with 1/4" drywall because of it's weight, price, and the fact that I'm not trying to make this work/play area perfect. Really, it's just something to keep in the heat when we are out there in the winter and to use as a play area all year long.

From the sounds of it, all of you feel pretty confident that hanging sheet rock on the 2x4's and the "bottom chord" of the truss won't pose a problem.

 

[/pine]

not to argue with you but trusses are not designed on a project by project basis (they are mass produced) and I'm sure are way over-engineered to handle drop weight. All he is proposing to do is add a few 2x4 "nailers" which weigh nothing. as for the rock, ceilings used to use 5/8ths to eliminate "waves". The new trend is towards a special 1/2 ceiling board that is stiffer. I don't think it is much lighter than standard 1/2 board. And I'll add that code might still require 5/8" "typeX" for fire retardant although that might have changed now also. Simple Google search for US Gypsum should give you the details.

You are most likely correct about the truss design on standard pole barn size structures...but I guarantee anyone that sells said trusses has copies of the original engineer's signed seal....

Unless a house or other custom building is a basic gable to gable run at a common width...almost all the trusses have to be designed and then approved (signed/sealed) on an individual basis...

Unless the space located above the cited ceiling is "living space" or has additional structure that supports living space...there should be no fire rating requirements on said ceiling...

 

[/pine]

I was going to just go with 1/4" drywall because of it's weight, price, and the fact that I'm not trying to make this work/play area perfect. Really, it's just something to keep in the heat when we are out there in the winter and to use as a play area all year long.

From the sounds of it, all of you feel pretty confident that hanging sheet rock on the 2x4's and the "bottom chord" of the truss won't pose a problem.

I would not recommend 1/4" or even 3/8" sheetrock...if you don't care about the looks why not some 1/2 " foam board....it actually comes 9' long by 4' wide and comes in T&G edges (or flush)...

 

[steveessie]

I would not recommend 1/4" or even 3/8" sheetrock...if you don't care about the looks why not some 1/2 " foam board....it actually comes 9' long by 4' wide and comes in T&G edges (or flush)...

Do you have any links to 1/2" foam board?

If it is cheaper, easier to hang, and in those measurements (9'L x 4' W) then that is probably what I would go with.

 

[chim]

I didn't see anything on how you will construct the dividing wall(s). One thing to be careful with is that you don't build anything solid under a truss. A farm publication I read some time back had examples of failed structures and they said one quick way to have the trusses fail is to add support where it wasn't originally designed to have it. They showed examples of failures and also details of how to make floating connections for supporting stuff inside the building.

 

[steveessie]

I didn't see anything on how you will construct the dividing wall(s). One thing to be careful with is that you don't build anything solid under a truss. A farm publication I read some time back had examples of failed structures and they said one quick way to have the trusses fail is to add support where it wasn't originally designed to have it. They showed examples of failures and also details of how to make floating connections for supporting stuff inside the building.

My plan was take make 3 sets of moveable walls attached to one another (can take them out in the summer) 9'H x 8'W and then attach them to the bottom Chord of the truss with some brackets. I don't know if they would really be "supports" but they would be attached and would be solid. They would be made using 2'x4's like a standard wall.

 

[Bigkrank]

Why don't you just put 3' tin up? Just screw it right to the trusses, no 2X4's, taping, painting, etc. I had a 54 X 90 on 9' centers done this way. Have two other buildings on 7'6" centers done this way also.

 

[chim]

I'm no engineer, but I'd suggest you seek advice from someone who really knows. You can get a lot of good input from people who enjoy tractors, but unless one of us has a "day job" designing structures, I'd look elsewhere for some advice on the interior wall details.

 

[Gunny]

You could use solid soffit panels, very light weight, easy to handle. The Styrofoam would probably be cheaper

 

[steveessie]

Why don't you just put 3' tin up? Just screw it right to the trusses, no 2X4's, taping, painting, etc. I had a 54 X 90 on 9' centers done this way. Have two other buildings on 7'6" centers done this way also.

View attachment 303163

Most likely, I wouldn't be taping, painiting, etc. I'm not too concerned about looks, I just don't want the ceiling to collapse. At this point, I will probably just attach some light foam board (more insulation) and go with it that way.

Thanks for your help guys!

 

[KennyG]

Why don't you just put 3' tin up? Just screw it right to the trusses, no 2X4's, taping, painting, etc. I had a 54 X 90 on 9' centers done this way. Have two other buildings on 7'6" centers done this way also.

View attachment 303163

I like the look of your shop. Since you've got so many toys you have to stack them, up, would you like to send one my way? :laughing:

 

[Bigkrank]

Camaro should be at Auburn, IN auction labor day weekend.

 

[/pine]

Do you have any links to 1/2" foam board?

If it is cheaper, easier to hang, and in those measurements (9'L x 4' W) then that is probably what I would go with.

Shop Dow 1/2-in x 4-ft x 9-ft Extruded Polystyrene Insulated Sheathing at Lowes.com

 

[BHD]

most pole barns I have seen with a ceiling have sheet tin ceilings they look very nice,

 

[teejk]

Why don't you just put 3' tin up? Just screw it right to the trusses, no 2X4's, taping, painting, etc. I had a 54 X 90 on 9' centers done this way. Have two other buildings on 7'6" centers done this way also.

View attachment 303163

That's what I did in my shop...bright white steel, the ribs keep it very stiff and it's alot lighter than sheet rock. My contractor hates the thin "liner steel" (29ga maybe) so he did regular building steel (25ga???). Finished part of the shop is 40' long with trusses 8' on center...a 24' and a 16' did the job and it looks great. You can get it cut to length. You will need a poly sheet above.

A neat trick I learned from him (he does this for a living)...lay several sheets together. Mark out your screw holes and bang them HARD with a center punch. Peel the top sheets off to install but when the lower sheets start to lose the dent, slip new sheets underneath and hit the old dents again with the punch. It makes a very straight line and that dent is all you need to start the "pole barn" self tapping screws.

He learned the hard way that you can't drill them (rust issue). Amazing that you only have to lay out the screw holes once. Thought I'd share that.