will this damage? hitch ball to drawbar

[geish]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">(
You know how the drawbar has a large diameter hole on it. I'll be attaching a hitch ball to it. I will then use that to attach the hook on to. )</font>

The ball will be handy, for sure, if you want to move trailers and so on. My experience, though, is that your chain will fall off with some regularity. But perhaps that's just my poor technique.. I often have to back up and get another angle on the pull, and having a chain with a snap hook which can't come off without humanoid assistance is easier. Your idea will certainly work, although I wonder if it's really optimal for what you plan to do.

You can also just stick the hook end of a chain through the hole in the drawbar.. for quick and easy jobs.

It's been so long since I've posted here that I hope I can still remember how to attach a pic! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Regards,
Bob )</font>


Bob, I won't be doing this every day so it's not a problem whether it's optimal or not. I'll find out tomorrow actually. That's when I plan on moving those logs. I shouldn't call them logs. They're actually telephone poles. Their length has been cut though. Don't worry.

I tried to find that clevis that you have a pic for, but none of them are deep enough to where I can have it perfectly parallel with the drawbar. If I hook it on, they have to be to the side. I don't even know how to explain it. Basically, the U shape isn't long enough. I am though using it in my chain system at the "Y" junction. One chain hooked up to it goes to the hook and tractor, two chains hook up to it to wrap around the "logs."

 

[Skidmark25]

geish,

All I can add is that I looped out an old simplicity 16HP ride-on lawnmower going backwards down a paved driveway.

Couple of raspberries on my shoulder & knees and some bruised pride. If that was my B7610 it would have hurt alot more. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I was pulling some large logs with a nylon rope that my brother gave me and when I got a snag I was going slow enough to feel the rope give a little.

Go slow & wear your seat belt. Good luck & Merry Christmas!!

 

[RoyJackson]

"This is true only if you're going way too fast. I usually skid at 1200 RPM in 3rd gear, which is probably 3-4 MPH. If I snag something at that speed, I should have 3-4 seconds to react... "

Next time you're operating your tractor, make a chalk mark on the tread of your tire...make sure you can see it while seated.

Time one revolution at your normal speed. That's how long it would take the tractor to rotate around the axle. I don't think it would be 3-4 seconds, even at a low speed. And, once rotated over ~75° (per the reports I've read), the tractor will continue to rotate due to inertia.

 

[Bird]

I think you've got it, Roy, except isn't it 25% instead of 75%; i.e., 90 degrees or one-fourth of a complete rotation gets the front end straight up? Or is my thinking off tonight? No way you're going to have 3 or 4 seconds to react. Of course, you might stall the engine or spin the wheels; both of which I've done, but if the front end starts up, it's going up fast.

 

[RoyJackson]

"except isn't it 25% instead of 75%..."

The schematics I've seen show the front end of the tractor ~75° (using the tractor frame as the hypotenuse of the triangle). And, yepper...90° would be pointing straight up.

The idea of the draw bar being below the rear axle is to neutralize the tendency of the tractor to rotate about it's rear axle. The load on the draw bar should actually pull the tractor counter to the rotation of the tires. Next time you're out by your tractor...look at the geometry.

Now, those 3PH type draw bars are a different story altogether! Looking at those (and I have one), one can see how the tractor could rotate around the axle.

BTW, the clevis and pin Trev shows in his attachment is probably the best way to rig a chain to the draw bar. I think they're only about ten bucks at your local Ace Hardware...or equivalent.

 

[rdsaustintx]

This is getting silly. First semester engineering question.

If the line of the chain and hitch are below the axle (viewed taut from the side), it should not flip the tractor.

Russell in Texas

 

[RoyJackson]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( This is getting silly. First semester engineering question. )</font>

Yeah, maybe it is getting silly...but you've been on TBN long enough to know that silly don't stop us from voicing our opinions.

 

[rdsaustintx]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Yeah, maybe it is getting silly...but you've been on TBN long enough to know that silly don't stop us from voicing our opinions. )</font>

You're right and I do not mean to disparage the advice to consider the possibility of a death wheelie.

I have also been here long enough to know everything Bird posts is correct. Heck, he's a Texan too.

Grovel, grovel, /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Russell

 

[Trev]

I've also noticed that Bird is never wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I think we got a bit confused by using both degrees and percentages as measures of angle.

Bob

 

[PapaPerk]

Buy a clevis (U-shape loop with a threaded pin) and install it in the tractor hitch. It only takes 30 secs. If you can't find the right size clevis, order on from northertool.com. Clevis attachments are the "correct" way to attach a chain to a tractor drawbar. Make sure the pic of the clevis matches the size of the hitch hole. Or at least is really close. Then all you have to do is slap your chain on the clevis and your ready for business! I always use a chain with a hook on one end and a chain hook on the other.