Will this work? If not what will?

[jwmorris]

Welding to broken off parts is pretty easy on large stuff with just about any welder but even works on small parts with a TIG welder.

This is a. 040" drill bit I removed a few days ago that broke off in a part. My personal record.

 

[jwmorris]

If its "way down" in a hole, like a broken cylinder head stud in a Mercedes block, I use left hand twist drill bits like the one ont the left in the photo below.

With those two "tricks" I don't remember the last time I used an easyout for anything except broken pipe fittings.

Once you break off an easyout you have just made the job MUCH more difficult.

If you do try easyouts or LH drills don't buy cheap ones, if you don't have one of these http://www.electroarc.com/ or a TIG and Hastelloy filler rod.

 

[Arc weld]

"If you are stuck with welding I would suggest skip welding instead of welding it solid. The reason being if your weld fails at any end it will come undone like a sipper where skip welds will fail more like buttons on your shirt. If your zipper fails, it's done but you can get by missing one button."

This doesn't make sense to me. On some weldments you want stitch welds so the part can expand and contract. I/E a bridge. However, in most cases a solid continuous weld is stronger than stitch welding. If you have a continuous weld that wants to rip away, the same piece stitch welded would rip away even easier. I wouldn't weld it though. I'd fix the the holes and use grade 8 bolts. Maybe some blue loctite to keep them from loosening.

 

[jwmorris]

I am going from the "will this work" part. If you don't know you can make a solid weld, running all the way down could harm a section that otherwise hold up, with one or more "good" welds and a few that wouldn't make it.

Also if you make it too solid you will just break the next part, thus the fuse part.

From the drawing I don't know the size or thickness of the part or where the forces go, so who knows how much flex is in the part(s). My first guess is enough to break off a few bolts.

Some times a "solid" weld can also weaken the part. The OP's drawings don't show intentions of welding the ends of the gusset but if there were length wise loads a weld would just make a shear point that was not there before. Plug welds or nothing at all would be better. Like the attached Komatsu forklift tilt support. They knew, from experience or testing than the mast lived better without welding everything.

 

[jwmorris]

If you intend to fully weld a support at least try to not create a stress riser in the part.

For instance, The lower, tapered pattern would be much better than the upper gusset and the upper would be better welded only length wise than length wise and across. It's not just about making a good weld but where to put them.

 

[dwadec21]

You guys have given me information that is golden... And alot to think about. Im going to attempt again to remove and repair the the bolts, even if it means breaking down the frame and all. Thanks for all of your input and I will get back with you when I get it repaired.

 

[muddstopper]

Leave the welder unplugged. Use the Helicoil, you will be much happier in the end.