Winter is coming

[BuzzardA91]

I sold my old plow truck and will be using the JD 4105 to clear my 300 foot driveway. Not much of a pitch but a little. Half is stone and half paved. I am in the hills of CT so we get plenty of snow. I cleared the driveway with the loader a few times when we got over a foot. I found it slow and very inefficient. I did not have chains but did have the 375 backhoe on for weight. I never found traction to be an issue and it was a bad winter.

That's the background now here is my question. After reading all the related posts I do not want to get a blower but do need something more efficient at clearing snow. I think I am between a front plow or a rear blade. I can get a rear 7' blade for cheap but am worried about traction without the weight of the backhoe. Having to then buy chains and weight would negate the savings. I was worried about plowing with a front plow because of the uneven pressure when angled but it seems from the threads it's not an issue. The front bucket is nice for moving the snow banks (especially in the 36" storm last year). But I could still keep it in the garage and switch out with plow when needed.

It seems from all the reading a front plow will work best. Is my thought process flawed? The tractor is 66" wide, what size plow? Are those of you who use a front plow happy with it? Any brand suggestions or where to buy?

It will be my only way to clear snow for years so I don't mind paying for it the right way the first time. I do not have a cab, and will have a manual angle plow or blade, I don't mind either for now.

 

[duroc]

I started with a back blade and it actually works quite well. However, it is bad for the neck - at least mine. I had a spinal neck fusion in 2002 and back-blading is terrible for my neck. I bought a rear blower and a front FEL plow (Construction Attachments brand) and between the three of those, the FEL plow is used the most, and it's the fastest. I use the blower only when the snow is extremely deep, or when the windrows are too large to move. The back blade does come in handy at times, but it does a lot of sitting since I purchased the plow and blower. So, the one that gets the most use (for me) is the front blade. The blower is *really* nice, but terrible if the snow is the wet heavy type.

 

[DKCDKC]

I've used a back blade for a few years and it has worked well. Actually I use the loader to knock off some of the snow then clean it and move it with the back blade. I have a mile-long gravel drive, with hills and curves on the hills. But it seems to be as good a system as I can justify. Snow blowers are great, just not efficient for the less common deep snows we usually get in the Virginia mountains. Of course, the climate may be changing and I'll have to revisit the question...

 

[Dr Dave]

If you have a gravel drive a slip on snow pusher works good. They have skids on the side and an adjustable rubber cutting edge.
They slip over your bucket and are secured with chain binders, they come in many sizes also.

Dave

 

[BuzzardA91]

Appreciate the responses. It does seem the blowers work great but that isn't an option. Half the driveway is stone and we get a bunch of wet soupy storms. Plus I wouldn't have anywhere to keep it where I can still get to it when needed. I mostly want to clear from a couple of inches to a foot or so. Another SNOWMAGGEDON this year and I will go to the bucket then clean it up with plow or blade. That is what I did last year. When we got over a foot I did it with the bucket (slow process) then had to clean up with plow truck. But without the truck I am hoping to figure out one system best for my situation.

I did look at the snow pushers but I do not think they would fork for me. I have really nowhere to push the snow to without having to pick it up and dumping it. It is a long single car driveway. Anything over a few inches the snow pusher wouldn't make it to far before filling up. I think I need something that can angle it off the driveway.

I Think the front plow seems best so far I just don't know anybody who actually uses that system. Also I am having trouble finding them for sale with a price. Few on eBay for $1,000 but probably cheap. Looking to not have "buyers regret."

 

[nybirdman]

I have used a FEL mounted plow for four years.A converted (Curtis) truck plow.Mine is an eight ft.,you want at least a foot wider than your tractor for angle.A also run a seven ft.rear blade;this makes a nice combo.Make sure what ever you purchase has trip springs and that they work.I built my own..lots of ideas on TBN.My set-up floats on a chain,not the float for the FEL.

 

[nybirdman]

Here is couple of pics

 

[duroc]

Here is couple of pics

I like your setup! Do you by chance have a closeup of the mounting system? Also, are those pheasants I see in the background in the first picture?

 

[nybirdman]

Yes they are pheasant; I raise about 1500 per year.I own a small uplands preserve.
My set up looks a little different;I was going to add a boom pole when I first built it,that is why the vertical is so long.Just a skid steer adapter plate with pivot points so the blade can float on the chain.I find this works best for me.Similar to what would be used on a pick-up only no lift cylinder.I replaced the angle cylinders.The most expensive part was the hydraulics for the tractor(third function).

 

[BuzzardA91]

Thanks nybirrman. Looks great. Not sure what you mean by floats on a chain vs the loader float? Is it not ok to use loader float? Also why both blades? Is it just for backing up say to garage doors and pulling snow out? Where do you get the rear weight from, loaded tires? Do you run chains?

 

[lamarbur]

We too live in the eastern hills of CT. Have a 1400 ft dirt driveway,, Since day one, I use a power angle plow, 90" on a Case DX 45 cab tractor, with heavy wet snow, I found out trying to watch the weather reports and hit it half way through and go back and finish works great, I also mount St Pierre roller chains on the front,

 

[badels]

Winter is here for me. In the past I have only used a rear blade and the loader with bucket. On my new deere I am running a front frame mounted hydraulic blade and a rear hydraulic blade. This weeks storm was quite the trial run for it, and it really performed well. I need to fill the tires yet and invest in some front chains, but managed to clear about a mile and a half of 18 inches of wet, heavy, and drifted snow without. Ideally a blower would have been perfect for this storm, but my set up will do great till I want to afford one.

Brad

 

[nybirdman]

You can use the"float" on the loader(and a lot of people do) but you have the weight of the FEL+the weight of the plow pushing down.My plow is plenty heavy and I don't need/want this.It has two pivot points(low) and the chain is used to lift.
As stated the rear blade is used to clear garage doors ect.My front blade has skids and the rear blade will clean right down to the asphalt.I have R1's(AG) tires and no chains;loaded tires and have never had a traction problem.Total weight is about 7,000lbs.

 

[radioman]

You definitely need a front truck plow to mount on your JD. There are hours of reading here on TBN and I enjoyed reading every one of them as each person have thier own way of mounting things for what works for them with what they have laying around or went out and bought materials to make it work. That includes me.

 

[BuzzardA91]

BADELS, ouch, already...... I guess we had a huge Halloween storm two years ago but it's still too soon. Thanks for the float response. I did read all those posts on using a truck plow but for me, I think I need to buy one already with a JDQA. I need it to come off quick and switch with bucket. It would cost about $750-$1000 for a truck plow if I can find one in decent shape. I don't think I will have time or the skills to rig one up.

Also it seems the few I have found on the net don't stick out as far and aren't quite as heavy as truck plows. That maybe helpful with using the tractors float. I also need to manually angle on it and those are made to do that. I don't have front hydraulics yet.

I can grab a used 7' blade that would be perfect, for cheap. But I am still worried about rear weight and traction. When I bought the tractor it was suggested on here to NOT fill the tires if you have a backhoe.

 

[nybirdman]

If you are going to take the BH off in the winter,may need to add a ballast box.If you don't get a lot of snow; a heavy duty back blade may do the trick for you.One a least a foot wider when angled.Should be able to purchase for around $1500 new or look used.Mine is a Bush-Hog branded with angle/off-set.

 

[nybirdman]

Check with Tractor Attachments And Skid Steer Attachments For Any Tractor Or Skid Steer for ideas and prices.Front and rear blades..........

 

[BuilderML]

This year i set myself up with a 7' landpride rear blade. The previous storms i only had the front loader to work with. The big nor easter we had with 36" of snow took me 8 hours for my 1400 ft driveway. My only concern with the rear blade is it is only about 300 lbs. My rears aren't loaded as i use my tractor with a mmm for the lawn. What i'll be doing is making 2- 80lb blocks of cement to mount on top of the rear blade for added weight. Should work but only time will tell. My driveway is gravel so i think i'll be getting a 3" blk. pipe and having a 1/4" grove cut into it to slide over the edge of the blade. Buzzard good luck with your selection and hope we don't get another crazy storm like we have had in the past.:thumbsup:

 

[duroc]

I did read all those posts on using a truck plow but for me, I think I need to buy one already with a JDQA. I need it to come off quick and switch with bucket. Also it seems the few I have found on the net don't stick out as far and aren't quite as heavy as truck plows. That maybe helpful with using the tractors float. I also need to manually angle on it and those are made to do that. I don't have front hydraulics yet. I can grab a used 7' blade that would be perfect, for cheap. But I am still worried about rear weight and traction. When I bought the tractor it was suggested on here to NOT fill the tires if you have a backhoe.

I bought my FEL plow from my NH dealer, but the product is made by Construction Attachments. There are a number of QA plow manufacturers out there, but this one seemed to fit my needs/wallet better. As for the front hydraulics, you don't need them. Just use the "curl" hoses for the right/left plow function. When you need the bucket, swap them back. It takes 5 mins (at best) to make the swap.

My plow is the only attachment I need for hydraulics, so I couldn't justify spending $1000 for another remote. I do have loaded rears, but I think if you put the back-blade on the 3 point it will help with traction, as well as backing into tight spots for plowing. You can always add hang-on weight to the BB if needed. The FEL-plow allows you to pile the snow pretty high, so you may not even need the bucket 'til spring. Below is a picture of my setup.


View attachment 340220

 

[duroc]

Yes they are pheasant; I raise about 1500 per year.I own a small uplands preserve.
My set up looks a little different;I was going to add a boom pole when I first built it,that is why the vertical is so long.Just a skid steer adapter plate with pivot points so the blade can float on the chain.I find this works best for me.Similar to what would be used on a pick-up only no lift cylinder.I replaced the angle cylinders.The most expensive part was the hydraulics for the tractor(third function).

So, do you release the birds, sell them, hunt them? Just curious! I used to hunt pheasant for many years, but they are pretty much gone in this area. I do see them occasionally, but not like years ago. Beautiful birds for sure.

I'd appreciate it if you could take a close up picture of your plow setup (from the QA to the rear of the plow). No hurry, just something I've been considering doing in the near future. Thanks, nybirdman.