Egon
Epic Contributor
I prefer to rip on a tablesaw.
I have sears radial arm saw, joiner, routers, scroll saw.
I prefer a bandsaw for ripping.
I prefer to rip on a tablesaw.
I have sears radial arm saw, joiner, routers, scroll saw.
I prefer a bandsaw for ripping.
I prefer a bandsaw for ripping.
I hope so... table saw for me, but I could see a panel saw would be handy.You’re joking right?
You’re joking right?
Nope!
Properly set up bandsaw and it goes much faster. Rip thicker wood too.
Depends on the size of the lumber/timbers being ripped...check out any major sawmill operation...besides a circle mill they usually have big band saws for ripping down bigger already sawed beams...
Lots of ripping done with band saw mills...can likely cut a pile of stickers a lot faster with the BSM than with a table saw (one board at a time)...!
Around here most of the mills are set up with upright band saws with long feed tables and fences...logs are cut 8", 10", 12" + by whatever width the log is...unless there is a large order for smaller beams (timber frame job etc.) most cuts go to the band saw and not put back on a circle mill...A sawmill bandsaw is a different animal. Sometimes typically found in a home shop like a 18 or less saw is a far cry from that. A bandsaw might cut thicker but how often are you doing that? My 10 table saw will cut about 3 thick without flipping the stock over. A table saw cuts faster, straighter, and smoother. You might get the bandsaw to acceptable speed and straightness, but it痴 still rough and fairly limited in width. I致e never seen a bandsaw even 36 ones with a big enough table to be very good at ripping long boards.
How do you rip a 4’ by 8’ in half? Most folks that that bandsaws are limited to 12” or 14” if you are blessed with a larger one.
Also a bandsaw really needs a longer fence and table to support anything large.


. I have the saw table on a screw lift to allow vertical adjustment on other tools like the planer.
That was a really good idea.
Of course having both a radial and a sliding crosscut can't be worse than having only one or the other. But setting up a radial for compound mitering is not preferred by me. And then there are the space requirements especially if you have a table saw. If I am choosing two out of the three... the radial arm loses. Case closed as it sits unused in the corner for a decade.I've had, two sliders. Decent makita, and crap lowes brand. Both gone into trash. Miters sling stuff BADLY. I really don't like them even though they are similar to ras. I've two 1940s walker Turner radial arms. Easy 15 inch width crosscut.
Works great. I only crosscut with them, but they work great. Way better than a sliding miter.
Of course having both a radial and a sliding crosscut can't be worse than having only one or the other. But setting up a radial for compound mitering is not preferred by me. And then there are the space requirements especially if you have a table saw. If I am choosing two out of the three... the radial arm loses. Case closed as it sits unused in the corner for a decade.
Skillsaw and a 2x4 work well for this. Lots of folks now use tracksaws.
In feed/out feed tables. No long fence needed; just a post opposite the blade works for many people.
With the right blades one can get a pretty clean cut.View attachment 575756
View attachment 575760
Correct... and resawing almost always requires planing and ripping afterward. Neither of which are best done on a bandsaw.What you are showing is "resawing" not "ripping".
What you are showing is "resawing" not "ripping".