WR Long 3rd Function Install

[aarolar]

Wondering where most people are getting 12 volts for the WR Long valve install on the MX series tractors. Absoutely amazed at the ease of install with this kit well worth the money in my opinion.

 

[RNeumann]

If I recall the solenoid takes something like 4-6 amps to switch the valve- it should state that on the unit. To me that is borderline for tapping off an existing ignition switched line. If it was me I'd put in a relay and be done with it.

 

[aarolar]

If I recall the solenoid takes something like 4-6 amps to switch the valve- it should state that on the unit. To me that is borderline for tapping off an existing ignition switched line. If it was me I'd put in a relay and be done with it.

That's a good thought I like that idea but where to get power for the relay then?

 

[aarolar]

I want to say I'm not simple I know how to find switched 12 volts and tap it I'm just looking for a good way to do it that doesn't involve hacking up my factory harness.

 

[mdhughes]

When I added an Anderson SB-50 connector to my L3901DT to power my transfer pump, I went straight to the battery to get the power. I put a fuse as close to the battery as I could in case of a short it wouldn't burn the whole wire. This allows you to totally remove the power that you added and doesn't mess with the factory wiring.

 

[RNeumann]

I haven't had a BX in my hands so with that it would be either the battery or quite often the fuse block will have a positive post. The switched power can be pulled from about anything. I'd take an accessory type switch instead of something that is only hot when running. You want to be able to shut the machine off, turn the key to the on or accessory position and cycle the valve to relieve any pressure. Poke around at the fuse block or ignition switch with the test light to find something. Since the relay exciter leg pulls way under an amp it shouldn't cause an issue.

 

[aarolar]

I haven't had a BX in my hands so with that it would be either the battery or quite often the fuse block will have a positive post. The switched power can be pulled from about anything. I'd take an accessory type switch instead of something that is only hot when running. You want to be able to shut the machine off, turn the key to the on or accessory position and cycle the valve to relieve any pressure. Poke around at the fuse block or ignition switch with the test light to find something. Since the relay exciter leg pulls way under an amp it shouldn't cause an issue.

Sorry I meant MX not BX.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

On my GL3130 tapped off the switched hot going into the back of the fuse box and put a fuse inline.

David

 

[bdhsfz6]

My dealer just installed a W&R Long 3rd function valve on my MX5800. They wired it directly to the battery, very much like the pic posted by mdhughes. The switch however is hot all the time since it is not powered through the ignition switch. I'm not sure if this is a potential safety hazard or not. I find it handy though to be able to bleed down hyd. pressure while the tractor is not running when changing implements.

 

[aarolar]

My dealer just installed a W&R Long 3rd function valve on my MX5800. They wired it directly to the battery, very much like the pic posted by mdhughes. The switch however is hot all the time since it is not powered through the ignition switch. I'm not sure if this is a potential safety hazard or not. I find it handy though to be able to bleed down hyd. pressure while the tractor is not running when changing implements.

I think this is what I'm going to do can't see an issue with it personally.

 

[mdhughes]

I think this is what I'm going to do can't see an issue with it personally.

You can put a on/off switch inline that you can turn the power off the the 3rd function solenoid if you think it could be a problem, or even a relay that is powered of the key switch to cut the power from the battery.

 

[aarolar]

You can put a on/off switch inline that you can turn the power off the the 3rd function solenoid if you think it could be a problem, or even a relay that is powered of the key switch to cut the power from the battery.

The switch sounds good but a relay is the same issue with finding and tapping into a switched 12volt wire. I wonder where the factory 3rd function gets its power from wouldn't surprise me to find there is a factory plug tucked up in there somewhere ready for this purpose.

 

[Sysop]

Use the battery. My instructions indicated it as the best solution (I just installed my WRLong 3rd function the other day). Also, you do want it powered even with the key off so you can release the hydraulic pressure from the lines for service.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I installed a auxiliary fuse block for all my added electric needs. Ran a large fused supply wire from the battery to the fuse block. For the third function I installed a switch to turn the 3rd function on and off instead of a ignition hot

 

[Sysop]

That's the way to go if adding multiple accessories that need full time power. I like my lights and most other stuff to turn off with the tractor so I didn't see a need for a full block of fuses. Our WR Long kits come with an inline fuse holder. I just consider it a safer setup to be able to relieve pressure from the hydraulics with or without the key on.

 

[ovrszd]

My M9540 had a factory wire to plug the 3rd function system into. It's a keyed circuit, only on when key is on. If using a relay, I'd go to the battery as suggested for the high amp draw. To simply supply power to the switch I'd look for an open "hot when key on" circuit to tap into.

I personally don't like a circuit to be "hot" when the key is off. Adds a slight draw to the system that might have an impact if the machine sits for long periods of time. Also could add risk to the system if the switch fails while sitting.

These things might seem insignificant. I'll just ask, are any of the electrical circuits on your tractor "hot" when the key is off?

 

[Sysop]

Hazard warning lights have power all the time. Besides that I don't know, I've not really checked.

 

[ovrszd]

Hazard warning lights have power all the time. Besides that I don't know, I've not really checked.

Then that would be the circuit to tap into to supply the switch if you want "key off" power.

 

[Sysop]

That'd create a higher load on the circuit than intended if operating the flashers and third function. Wires included from WR Long were 12ga, most of the wires in my fuse block are smaller 14ga. My 3rd function came with a 10A fuse, and if I'm not mistaken, that's the size fuse already on the hazard circuit. Operating both, that could easily pop the fuse or get a wire hot.

I won't double up on an existing circuit. I prefer adding my own power lead rather than taking a chance on overloading the OEM systems. The only time I tap into the manufacturer's wiring is if I need key-on power, and then I only use their wiring to trip a relay and still bring my own power to the device.

 

[ovrszd]

That'd create a higher load on the circuit than intended if operating the flashers and third function. Wires included from WR Long were 12ga, most of the wires in my fuse block are smaller 14ga. My 3rd function came with a 10A fuse, and if I'm not mistaken, that's the size fuse already on the hazard circuit. Operating both, that could easily pop the fuse or get a wire hot.

I won't double up on an existing circuit. I prefer adding my own power lead rather than taking a chance on overloading the OEM systems. The only time I tap into the manufacturer's wiring is if I need key-on power, and then I only use their wiring to trip a relay and still bring my own power to the device.

Sorry, I should have restated my position of using a relay. I'll do that now.

Definitely use a relay. This removes all heavy load from the switch. It takes less than an amp to power a relay. Then let the relay provide the amp draw to control the 3rd function solenoids. Which sounds like it's somewhere near 10A by the fuse they provided.

Relays can be purchased at any auto parts store in various load ratings for less than $10 each.