WR Long 3rd Function Install

[aarolar]

Wondering where most people are getting 12 volts for the WR Long valve install on the MX series tractors. Absoutely amazed at the ease of install with this kit well worth the money in my opinion.

 

[RNeumann]

If I recall the solenoid takes something like 4-6 amps to switch the valve- it should state that on the unit. To me that is borderline for tapping off an existing ignition switched line. If it was me I'd put in a relay and be done with it.

 

[aarolar]

If I recall the solenoid takes something like 4-6 amps to switch the valve- it should state that on the unit. To me that is borderline for tapping off an existing ignition switched line. If it was me I'd put in a relay and be done with it.

That's a good thought I like that idea but where to get power for the relay then?

 

[aarolar]

I want to say I'm not simple I know how to find switched 12 volts and tap it I'm just looking for a good way to do it that doesn't involve hacking up my factory harness.

 

[mdhughes]

When I added an Anderson SB-50 connector to my L3901DT to power my transfer pump, I went straight to the battery to get the power. I put a fuse as close to the battery as I could in case of a short it wouldn't burn the whole wire. This allows you to totally remove the power that you added and doesn't mess with the factory wiring.

 

[RNeumann]

I haven't had a BX in my hands so with that it would be either the battery or quite often the fuse block will have a positive post. The switched power can be pulled from about anything. I'd take an accessory type switch instead of something that is only hot when running. You want to be able to shut the machine off, turn the key to the on or accessory position and cycle the valve to relieve any pressure. Poke around at the fuse block or ignition switch with the test light to find something. Since the relay exciter leg pulls way under an amp it shouldn't cause an issue.

 

[aarolar]

I haven't had a BX in my hands so with that it would be either the battery or quite often the fuse block will have a positive post. The switched power can be pulled from about anything. I'd take an accessory type switch instead of something that is only hot when running. You want to be able to shut the machine off, turn the key to the on or accessory position and cycle the valve to relieve any pressure. Poke around at the fuse block or ignition switch with the test light to find something. Since the relay exciter leg pulls way under an amp it shouldn't cause an issue.

Sorry I meant MX not BX.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

On my GL3130 tapped off the switched hot going into the back of the fuse box and put a fuse inline.

David

 

[bdhsfz6]

My dealer just installed a W&R Long 3rd function valve on my MX5800. They wired it directly to the battery, very much like the pic posted by mdhughes. The switch however is hot all the time since it is not powered through the ignition switch. I'm not sure if this is a potential safety hazard or not. I find it handy though to be able to bleed down hyd. pressure while the tractor is not running when changing implements.

 

[aarolar]

My dealer just installed a W&R Long 3rd function valve on my MX5800. They wired it directly to the battery, very much like the pic posted by mdhughes. The switch however is hot all the time since it is not powered through the ignition switch. I'm not sure if this is a potential safety hazard or not. I find it handy though to be able to bleed down hyd. pressure while the tractor is not running when changing implements.

I think this is what I'm going to do can't see an issue with it personally.