WR Long 3rd Function Install

mdhughes · Feb 24, 2017

aarolar said:
I think this is what I'm going to do can't see an issue with it personally.

You can put a on/off switch inline that you can turn the power off the the 3rd function solenoid if you think it could be a problem, or even a relay that is powered of the key switch to cut the power from the battery.

aarolar · Feb 25, 2017

mdhughes said:
You can put a on/off switch inline that you can turn the power off the the 3rd function solenoid if you think it could be a problem, or even a relay that is powered of the key switch to cut the power from the battery.

The switch sounds good but a relay is the same issue with finding and tapping into a switched 12volt wire. I wonder where the factory 3rd function gets its power from wouldn't surprise me to find there is a factory plug tucked up in there somewhere ready for this purpose.

Sysop · Feb 25, 2017

Use the battery. My instructions indicated it as the best solution (I just installed my WRLong 3rd function the other day). Also, you do want it powered even with the key off so you can release the hydraulic pressure from the lines for service.

countrybumpkin · Feb 25, 2017

I installed a auxiliary fuse block for all my added electric needs. Ran a large fused supply wire from the battery to the fuse block. For the third function I installed a switch to turn the 3rd function on and off instead of a ignition hot

Sysop · Feb 25, 2017

That's the way to go if adding multiple accessories that need full time power. I like my lights and most other stuff to turn off with the tractor so I didn't see a need for a full block of fuses. Our WR Long kits come with an inline fuse holder. I just consider it a safer setup to be able to relieve pressure from the hydraulics with or without the key on.

ovrszd · Feb 25, 2017

My M9540 had a factory wire to plug the 3rd function system into. It's a keyed circuit, only on when key is on. If using a relay, I'd go to the battery as suggested for the high amp draw. To simply supply power to the switch I'd look for an open "hot when key on" circuit to tap into.

I personally don't like a circuit to be "hot" when the key is off. Adds a slight draw to the system that might have an impact if the machine sits for long periods of time. Also could add risk to the system if the switch fails while sitting.

These things might seem insignificant. I'll just ask, are any of the electrical circuits on your tractor "hot" when the key is off?

Sysop · Feb 25, 2017

Hazard warning lights have power all the time. Besides that I don't know, I've not really checked.

ovrszd · Feb 25, 2017

Sysop said:
Hazard warning lights have power all the time. Besides that I don't know, I've not really checked.

Then that would be the circuit to tap into to supply the switch if you want "key off" power.

Sysop · Feb 25, 2017

That'd create a higher load on the circuit than intended if operating the flashers and third function. Wires included from WR Long were 12ga, most of the wires in my fuse block are smaller 14ga. My 3rd function came with a 10A fuse, and if I'm not mistaken, that's the size fuse already on the hazard circuit. Operating both, that could easily pop the fuse or get a wire hot.

I won't double up on an existing circuit. I prefer adding my own power lead rather than taking a chance on overloading the OEM systems. The only time I tap into the manufacturer's wiring is if I need key-on power, and then I only use their wiring to trip a relay and still bring my own power to the device.

ovrszd · Feb 25, 2017

Sysop said:
That'd create a higher load on the circuit than intended if operating the flashers and third function. Wires included from WR Long were 12ga, most of the wires in my fuse block are smaller 14ga. My 3rd function came with a 10A fuse, and if I'm not mistaken, that's the size fuse already on the hazard circuit. Operating both, that could easily pop the fuse or get a wire hot.

I won't double up on an existing circuit. I prefer adding my own power lead rather than taking a chance on overloading the OEM systems. The only time I tap into the manufacturer's wiring is if I need key-on power, and then I only use their wiring to trip a relay and still bring my own power to the device.

Sorry, I should have restated my position of using a relay. I'll do that now.

Definitely use a relay. This removes all heavy load from the switch. It takes less than an amp to power a relay. Then let the relay provide the amp draw to control the 3rd function solenoids. Which sounds like it's somewhere near 10A by the fuse they provided.

Relays can be purchased at any auto parts store in various load ratings for less than $10 each.