XJ2025H won't run in two wheel drive.
- Thread starter Plas62
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Bummer. I'm sure that you have projects lined up for her. Keep us in the loop. I was hoping that you could give me input the hydro oil as you are the only one that has had several different ones in the tractor that I know of, and I'm soon to change. You liked the Amsoil. Is that still the best sounding, feeling oil in your opinion?
Tom - I finally got my tractor back from the dealer yesterday. With all the rain we've had lately I'll have to wait for the ground to dry some before I can get started back on my project list.
As to the oil, I've was happy with the Amsoil when I changed over to it and plan to use it again on my next oil change. I thought it was an improvement over the non-synthetic oil.
As to the oil, I've was happy with the Amsoil when I changed over to it and plan to use it again on my next oil change. I thought it was an improvement over the non-synthetic oil.
jdom84
Gold Member
I recently purchased a new xj2025h and it has the 2 year bumper to bumper and a 6 year power train warranty, I would assume this type of failure would be covered under the power train warranty after the 2 years are up.
On my previous tractor I used the diff lock w/4wd all the time when digging with the FEL. It was a grey market Mitsubishi 2050fd with the tall skinny rice field AG tires. I never had an issue with the thing aside from me always being scared to break it and not being able to repair it... so I sold it for more than I paid to purchase the xj2025h. The other day I was moving some dirt with the xj2025h from a pile I sifted through the rock screen grizzly with the Mitsubishi prior to selling it. Going into the pile the xj2025h in low, it seemed to just stop with as if it hit a pressure release in the HST and there was no tire spin. It didn't even fill the bucket halfway even while curling and lifting... I started to wonder how strong these tractors actually are. After some research and minor tweaking I can now fill the bucket entirely in 1 pass and my confidence in this thing has been mostly restored. I think these tractors are capable of much more then the factory sets them at to keep people from breaking things but the HST/rear axle casing is of concern to me because its made from aluminum.
jdom84
Gold Member
Now... i know some people are going to think this is just stupid and that's fine
After looking at the FEL on the new tractor compared to my previous tractor, I figured it could handle way more than LS say it could because the china made "v2" loader that was on the Mitsubishi was junk but it lifted whatever I made it lift. The difference was, the Mitsubishi didn't have a pressure relief valve at all and if you over pressured it for to long and it didnt stall the engine you risked blowing the seal out of the front of the pump and filling the engine with hydraulic fluid (this happened to the previous owner). The LS FEL has larger cylinders thicker steel beams and a much better design. After being very disappointed with trying to fill the bucket entirely the first few times using the tractor I set out to solve the anemic loader issue. I stumbled across a thread where someone had posted the PSI pressure release the factory had set on the implements pump . Something like 2100 psi, which from my experience with hydraulics is low. Everything we build and run at the family mine is 2500 to 3500 psi, mostly without failures and we are using used old unknown parts that do not come with spec sheets. So I figured this tractor can handle a bit more PSI because just pushing into a pile of dirt will cause more pressure on the hydraulic system then the relief valve is set at. I don't have a hydraulic pressure gauge at home so what I did was backed off the lock nut on the relief valve and made minor adjustments, testing the tractor into the dirt pile each time I increased the pressure a bit. After about 1/2 turn on the screw the loader was much more responsive while pushing into the pile and even though the HST was still stopping, the implements pump wasn't instantly hitting the pressure release allowing it to pick up more dirt when curling and lifting and the HST was able to move forward a bit. At the same time I was listening to the sounds of the tractor making sure it wasn't going to kill it. if you make a note on how much you turned the pressure screw, its easy to turn back if you ever wanted/needed. I do plan to throw a gauge on it to see what the pressure is to make sure its not way to high. But i would imagine it would stall the engine if it was.
The higher pressure has also made the backhoe much stronger. the issue here is, it will pretty much move the tractor around when digging in hard rocky dirt. I was thinking some sort of spiked stabilizer plate attachments will help along with a tooth bar on the front bucket
The HST is driven by the secondary pump along with the steering, I dont think there is anything you can safely adjust to make the HST perform better. I have read that the HST on these small tractors is greatly influenced by engine RPM/HP but i don't know if that's fact. From doing research on these the S3L2, Mitsubishi has them truly rated at 30hp @ 3000 rpm, LS says they are rated at 24.4 at 2500 RPM to keep it under the 25hp tier 4 rating and limites the RPM to 2500-2600. I live at 3500ft elevation and a rough estimate puts my tractor at about 20 hp @ 2500RPM. If the HST is linked directly to the RPM/HP this could be why it just stops instead of spinning the tires. I want to know where our 500 RPM went? and can we get it back? and at what cost to the engine/tractor...... I am still researching this.
On a side note. I am not the first to increase the hydro pressure on these smaller tractors. I have read on this forum that other color tractors that suffer from the anemic loader issue have had the same modifications and all have had very good results.
After looking at the FEL on the new tractor compared to my previous tractor, I figured it could handle way more than LS say it could because the china made "v2" loader that was on the Mitsubishi was junk but it lifted whatever I made it lift. The difference was, the Mitsubishi didn't have a pressure relief valve at all and if you over pressured it for to long and it didnt stall the engine you risked blowing the seal out of the front of the pump and filling the engine with hydraulic fluid (this happened to the previous owner). The LS FEL has larger cylinders thicker steel beams and a much better design. After being very disappointed with trying to fill the bucket entirely the first few times using the tractor I set out to solve the anemic loader issue. I stumbled across a thread where someone had posted the PSI pressure release the factory had set on the implements pump . Something like 2100 psi, which from my experience with hydraulics is low. Everything we build and run at the family mine is 2500 to 3500 psi, mostly without failures and we are using used old unknown parts that do not come with spec sheets. So I figured this tractor can handle a bit more PSI because just pushing into a pile of dirt will cause more pressure on the hydraulic system then the relief valve is set at. I don't have a hydraulic pressure gauge at home so what I did was backed off the lock nut on the relief valve and made minor adjustments, testing the tractor into the dirt pile each time I increased the pressure a bit. After about 1/2 turn on the screw the loader was much more responsive while pushing into the pile and even though the HST was still stopping, the implements pump wasn't instantly hitting the pressure release allowing it to pick up more dirt when curling and lifting and the HST was able to move forward a bit. At the same time I was listening to the sounds of the tractor making sure it wasn't going to kill it. if you make a note on how much you turned the pressure screw, its easy to turn back if you ever wanted/needed. I do plan to throw a gauge on it to see what the pressure is to make sure its not way to high. But i would imagine it would stall the engine if it was.
The higher pressure has also made the backhoe much stronger. the issue here is, it will pretty much move the tractor around when digging in hard rocky dirt. I was thinking some sort of spiked stabilizer plate attachments will help along with a tooth bar on the front bucket
The HST is driven by the secondary pump along with the steering, I dont think there is anything you can safely adjust to make the HST perform better. I have read that the HST on these small tractors is greatly influenced by engine RPM/HP but i don't know if that's fact. From doing research on these the S3L2, Mitsubishi has them truly rated at 30hp @ 3000 rpm, LS says they are rated at 24.4 at 2500 RPM to keep it under the 25hp tier 4 rating and limites the RPM to 2500-2600. I live at 3500ft elevation and a rough estimate puts my tractor at about 20 hp @ 2500RPM. If the HST is linked directly to the RPM/HP this could be why it just stops instead of spinning the tires. I want to know where our 500 RPM went? and can we get it back? and at what cost to the engine/tractor...... I am still researching this.
On a side note. I am not the first to increase the hydro pressure on these smaller tractors. I have read on this forum that other color tractors that suffer from the anemic loader issue have had the same modifications and all have had very good results.
ThirdMan
Gold Member
I am surprised to hear you say that you are unsure about the RPM. On my MT125 at lowest RPM (which I only run when starting or stopping) the loader won't lift and drive speed is very low. Increasing RPM greatly increases traveling speed. When I want to get somewhere on flat ground or I run the engine just a few hundred RPM below PTO speed.
jdom84
Gold Member
I also experience the same with higher engine RPM = faster ride because the hydraulic pump has more flow but hydraulic pressure should be a constant, determined by relief valve settings once the system has load. However, I do not see increase in FEL and BH capability or more forward/reverse torque with higher RPM, just faster movements which would be expected with more flow. This being my first HST compact tractor its a learning experience. We have wheel loaders at the mine that are HST... but they don't operate quite the same because those seem to have endless power.
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ThirdMan
Gold Member
My loader does not have full power at minimal RPM. It can lift much more when the engine is working more.