rmully
Gold Member
I found a 1400 tiller 5ft for $300 Photos shoe a little surface rust but looks good. Do you that have this tiller have any problems and what should i look out for? I want to put this on a YM2020
Yanar tiller 1400
- Thread starter rmully
- Start date
![tractor%2520010[1][1].jpg](/forums/data/attachments/114/114192-a44d7c72e5126896af21c5f970a36ff7.jpg)
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 14,479
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
Yanmar RS1400? That is the model that was sold together with YM2000. I think the decal on it specifically mentions YM2000.
I used mine the other day. Simple, indestructible, works as expected.
Try to get it with its special double-jointed upper link. The part nearest the tractor attaches with pins through both upper-link attachment holes on the tractor and extends back, rigid, half way to the tiller. Then there is a short specialty upper link to go the rest of the way. This keeps the tiller away from the tires when you lift it. If somebody used an ordinary top link with it then it may have hacked, extended lower 3-point attachment points.
Yanmar used these without a slip clutch, counting on it to bounce up and climb over an obstacle. This makes American users nervous.
If you don't have an overrun clutch the spinning tiller could push you forward by inertia. Again, these aren't standard for that tiller.
And if you add either a slip clutch or an overrun clutch then putting the tiller behind a Quick Hitch might be simpler than shortening its driveshaft. This would also make more tire clearance if you didn't get the special top link.
Buck (EFC) said the bearing on the offside gets no lube and on a 30-35 year old tiller like this, could seize up and cause expensive damage. He recommended replace it with a sealed pre-lubed bearing. It's a standard size that any bearing house should have.
Replacement tines are expensive. It should till ok with a couple broken but beyond that, consider the cost of tines in your total cost. Mine has the tips broken off two and I can't tell the difference. A dozen or so new spares were included when I bought it, but I haven't seen a need to install any for my very occasional use.
My YM240, a twin to the YM2000 these were sold with, of course runs it fine. This year I tried it behind the smaller YM186D. (US equivalent to YM1510D). It lifts it fine. I was running in quite dry ground and it was too much load to let it find its own depth, I had to adjust the draft stop to take a 3" cut. I was doing the tight spots where the 8 ft disc couldn't fit at the edges of the orchard, and when I sunk the tractor's tires into the 6" loose earth where the big disc had gone, the tiller would get too much bite and stall the YM186D.
That's all I know. In summary, recommended.
I used mine the other day. Simple, indestructible, works as expected.
Try to get it with its special double-jointed upper link. The part nearest the tractor attaches with pins through both upper-link attachment holes on the tractor and extends back, rigid, half way to the tiller. Then there is a short specialty upper link to go the rest of the way. This keeps the tiller away from the tires when you lift it. If somebody used an ordinary top link with it then it may have hacked, extended lower 3-point attachment points.
Yanmar used these without a slip clutch, counting on it to bounce up and climb over an obstacle. This makes American users nervous.
If you don't have an overrun clutch the spinning tiller could push you forward by inertia. Again, these aren't standard for that tiller.
And if you add either a slip clutch or an overrun clutch then putting the tiller behind a Quick Hitch might be simpler than shortening its driveshaft. This would also make more tire clearance if you didn't get the special top link.
Buck (EFC) said the bearing on the offside gets no lube and on a 30-35 year old tiller like this, could seize up and cause expensive damage. He recommended replace it with a sealed pre-lubed bearing. It's a standard size that any bearing house should have.
Replacement tines are expensive. It should till ok with a couple broken but beyond that, consider the cost of tines in your total cost. Mine has the tips broken off two and I can't tell the difference. A dozen or so new spares were included when I bought it, but I haven't seen a need to install any for my very occasional use.
My YM240, a twin to the YM2000 these were sold with, of course runs it fine. This year I tried it behind the smaller YM186D. (US equivalent to YM1510D). It lifts it fine. I was running in quite dry ground and it was too much load to let it find its own depth, I had to adjust the draft stop to take a 3" cut. I was doing the tight spots where the 8 ft disc couldn't fit at the edges of the orchard, and when I sunk the tractor's tires into the 6" loose earth where the big disc had gone, the tiller would get too much bite and stall the YM186D.
That's all I know. In summary, recommended.
OP
rmully
Gold Member
Calif ... what if it does not have this special double-jointed upper link? Can I get one somewhere and will it work without it? For $300 I felt i could not go too far wrong, the only rub is it is 3 hours away...one way.
![tiller%20top%20bracket[1].jpg](/forums/data/attachments/152/152125-a7d5be614ba1aaaa7cd8a704c5dd3e29.jpg)
![tractor%20018[1].jpg](/forums/data/attachments/127/127698-7cd64627db7a0a7c4866046f8eb57717.jpg)
jmf7112001
Silver Member
If you don't feel good about buying that tiller for $300, let me know I'll take 6 if he has them and come pick them us. I live in Alabama.
C
careyo63
Guest
Run over to Fredricks thats were mine came from. Didn't give that much more for it everything was there top link and new Tines sounds about the same price as not having them. They did give me the wrong shaft but they got it to me
I would imagine they would cut you a good deal if you was Buying that many and only about a Hrs. drive.
carey
I would imagine they would cut you a good deal if you was Buying that many and only about a Hrs. drive.carey
OP
rmully
Gold Member
Thanks Carey the pictures are helpful in case I need to find one of these. I printed one out to take with me just in case the guy remembers seeing it.
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 14,479
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
Carey I just learned something looking at your picture. My upper link came with standard 3-point pins to attach to the tractor. The attachment goes on with some slack that I assumed could cause wear. I see bolts and spacers with yours. I'm sure now that is how it should be attached, to avoid wear. I'll do mine that way next time I use it.
Rmully the lack of that link isn't a deal-stopper. Depending on your tire size, there might not be any conflict. Or you can fabricate some kind of workaround. Possibly, (I haven't tried this!), a Quick Hitch plus a PTO extender ($20) or slip clutch ($70??) would move the tiller back far enough to solve the tire interference.
I don't think you can simply lengthen a standard upper link because the tractor and tiller's pto shafts need to be parallel (not straight line, just parallel) when you are pushing the full 20 horsepower to the tiller. When the shafts aren't parallel, I think the tiller is forced to run faster/slower with each revolution of the shaft which is obviously a big and unnecessary increase of stress.
Rmully the lack of that link isn't a deal-stopper. Depending on your tire size, there might not be any conflict. Or you can fabricate some kind of workaround. Possibly, (I haven't tried this!), a Quick Hitch plus a PTO extender ($20) or slip clutch ($70??) would move the tiller back far enough to solve the tire interference.
I don't think you can simply lengthen a standard upper link because the tractor and tiller's pto shafts need to be parallel (not straight line, just parallel) when you are pushing the full 20 horsepower to the tiller. When the shafts aren't parallel, I think the tiller is forced to run faster/slower with each revolution of the shaft which is obviously a big and unnecessary increase of stress.
