Yanar tiller 1400

[rmully]

I found a 1400 tiller 5ft for $300 Photos shoe a little surface rust but looks good. Do you that have this tiller have any problems and what should i look out for? I want to put this on a YM2020

 

[careyo63]

Here's a Pic. of a RS 1400 behind a YM 2000 after getting some problems worked out. Wasn't that much to it it's been absolutly GREAT I would highly recomend one in good woking condition. This one is just new Tines and Spray painted

Carey

 

[California]

Yanmar RS1400? That is the model that was sold together with YM2000. I think the decal on it specifically mentions YM2000.

I used mine the other day. Simple, indestructible, works as expected.

Try to get it with its special double-jointed upper link. The part nearest the tractor attaches with pins through both upper-link attachment holes on the tractor and extends back, rigid, half way to the tiller. Then there is a short specialty upper link to go the rest of the way. This keeps the tiller away from the tires when you lift it. If somebody used an ordinary top link with it then it may have hacked, extended lower 3-point attachment points.

Yanmar used these without a slip clutch, counting on it to bounce up and climb over an obstacle. This makes American users nervous.

If you don't have an overrun clutch the spinning tiller could push you forward by inertia. Again, these aren't standard for that tiller.

And if you add either a slip clutch or an overrun clutch then putting the tiller behind a Quick Hitch might be simpler than shortening its driveshaft. This would also make more tire clearance if you didn't get the special top link.

Buck (EFC) said the bearing on the offside gets no lube and on a 30-35 year old tiller like this, could seize up and cause expensive damage. He recommended replace it with a sealed pre-lubed bearing. It's a standard size that any bearing house should have.

Replacement tines are expensive. It should till ok with a couple broken but beyond that, consider the cost of tines in your total cost. Mine has the tips broken off two and I can't tell the difference. A dozen or so new spares were included when I bought it, but I haven't seen a need to install any for my very occasional use.

My YM240, a twin to the YM2000 these were sold with, of course runs it fine. This year I tried it behind the smaller YM186D. (US equivalent to YM1510D). It lifts it fine. I was running in quite dry ground and it was too much load to let it find its own depth, I had to adjust the draft stop to take a 3" cut. I was doing the tight spots where the 8 ft disc couldn't fit at the edges of the orchard, and when I sunk the tractor's tires into the 6" loose earth where the big disc had gone, the tiller would get too much bite and stall the YM186D.

That's all I know. In summary, recommended.

 

[rmully]

Calif ... what if it does not have this special double-jointed upper link? Can I get one somewhere and will it work without it? For $300 I felt i could not go too far wrong, the only rub is it is 3 hours away...one way.

 

[blackd]

RMully, note the tine comment. They can break tines and throw them due to the nuts loosening from the vibration. So check and tighten before using.

 

[careyo63]

Worst case you can make it. Not that much to it. I had these pics. out not that long ago I had trouble myself Cal. finding them again. Dang Half Timers getting better though
These are for my 1400 I use on a 2000

 

[jmf7112001]

If you don't feel good about buying that tiller for $300, let me know I'll take 6 if he has them and come pick them us. I live in Alabama.

 

[careyo63]

Run over to Fredricks thats were mine came from. Didn't give that much more for it everything was there top link and new Tines sounds about the same price as not having them. They did give me the wrong shaft but they got it to me I would imagine they would cut you a good deal if you was Buying that many and only about a Hrs. drive.
carey

 

[rmully]

Thanks Carey the pictures are helpful in case I need to find one of these. I printed one out to take with me just in case the guy remembers seeing it.

 

[California]

Carey I just learned something looking at your picture. My upper link came with standard 3-point pins to attach to the tractor. The attachment goes on with some slack that I assumed could cause wear. I see bolts and spacers with yours. I'm sure now that is how it should be attached, to avoid wear. I'll do mine that way next time I use it.

Rmully the lack of that link isn't a deal-stopper. Depending on your tire size, there might not be any conflict. Or you can fabricate some kind of workaround. Possibly, (I haven't tried this!), a Quick Hitch plus a PTO extender ($20) or slip clutch ($70??) would move the tiller back far enough to solve the tire interference.

I don't think you can simply lengthen a standard upper link because the tractor and tiller's pto shafts need to be parallel (not straight line, just parallel) when you are pushing the full 20 horsepower to the tiller. When the shafts aren't parallel, I think the tiller is forced to run faster/slower with each revolution of the shaft which is obviously a big and unnecessary increase of stress.

 

[Inspector507]

I see bolts and spacers with yours. I'm sure now that is how it should be attached, to avoid wear. I'll do mine that way next time I use it.

Mine has the bolts and spacers too Cali. I think that was the intended attachment. Whoever had yours before you probably just took the faster way out of mounting it.

 

[rmully]

Here are a few pictures of the beast.

 

[careyo63]

Mine came with those also. I believe I said TALKING ABOUT CHEAP and didn't like the setup either Pos. falling out or care for the movement either. Easy fix just ran into the Nut and Bolt box and had it all in my Junk. Some things you learn to keep around you never know when you will need it and with the lock washers I felt alot better about it

Carey

 

[California]

Mine has the bolts and spacers too Cali. I think that was the intended attachment.

Oops! Based on this thread I just now went out in the barn and discovered those bolt/spacer components in my toolbox of miscellaneous spare 3-point parts. I've had them all along but didn't use them for my first trial run of the tiller (shown in this old post) so they got mis-filed. I learn something new all the time reading these threads. Thanks Inspector!

Rmully I see yours includes the 'trainer wheels' for the back. If you don't want those I'll buy then from you.

I've been told this was one of the last models to have those wheels and they aren't essential, so most of the tillers shipped over with the VN 'rebuilts' arrived without them. I've been looking for a pair. That is just what I need to control depth if I use the tiller with my smaller tractor, which can't really till full depth on the first pass.

Does anybody have those RS1400 wheels and is willing to sell them?

 

[careyo63]

Nice Find.Just make sure to check the bearings in the first pick. This is what shape mine was in and yes thats Rice Patty Water. Thanks to califirnia for telling me to check it :thumbsup:

Carey

 

[California]

Now you got me going. I'm going to check mine while it's still on the little tractor.

 

[rmully]

Well I picked up the tiller and it looks in real good shape. The seller has the top link contraption but never put it on but had it in storage. I will go over it and grease it up and check it over ...no broken tines or bent ones...will check all bolts. The only thing missing was the metal cover that covers the rear of the tines... do i need it? can I find a used one? Sure i could fabricate one. Any thoughts what else i need to do to get it ready? I will purchase an overrun clutch and see how it connects.

 

[California]

make sure to check the bearings in the first pick. This is what shape mine was in and yes thats Rice Patty Water.

Now you got me going. I'm going to check mine while it's still on the little tractor.

Ok, I opened it up (the tiller's offside lower bearing). I found it in great shape. Packed near full of clean wheel bearing grease, no moisture, looks immaculate. The cover gasket was paper, so likely original Yanmar service parts and properly maintained by some proud Japanese rice farmer. I scooped out most of the grease and repacked the ball bearing, cleaned the gasket surface, then used RTV to seal it back up. This is almost the same thing as a Japanese motorcycle, no?

That import house had told me not to worry, this was in good condition, and they were right. Thank you Vannessa, wherever you are.

 

[California]

Well I picked up the tiller and it looks in real good shape. The seller has the top link contraption ...no broken tines or bent ones...

The only thing missing was the metal cover that covers the rear of the tines... do i need it? can I find a used one? Sure i could fabricate one.

You did good!

I have bent that back cover trying to till into nasty stuff, poison oak for example, by backing into it. The bottom edge of the cover has nicks where the tines hit it. That may be what happened to yours. I think you need something there to make the dirt lay back down instead of being tossed far away, but something primitive should work fine. Anything from a sheet of plywood up to a properly-shaped replica, which would be expensive. The original cover both restrains the dirt, and also smooths it as you move along. You might use some kind of a drag for the smoothing.

The cover is hinged and hangs by chains from the back-wheel assembly, so it can float up over mounds of dirt.

Congratulations! You'll love it.

 

[careyo63]

I was just glad and lucky I checked it out PMO since I just bought from a dealer that wouldn't of lasted long.As a matter of fact I believe the Thread was ( california I owe you one ).
R Mully look at the pic. at the first of this thread and see if it will let you zoom in, it would for me, And you can see how mine is set up. Those are were the Poles for the wheels use to be just cut off. A bar across and then they run poles down to the back cover with holes,Springs and Clips for tension on it. I can't get a closer pic. prob won't get home till next week if everything goes well. Just pm me and be glad to help and try to get it worked out.Anything to keep the soil from flying is about all you need but won't be much to put it back right. They Work it will be well worth it for a couple of bucks.