Yanmar 1500 head gasket

[mark777]

...........they milled the head .010 and in turn cut the valve seats and re seated the valves to .010 also.

That's great. They've eliminated all the guess work and a stock head gasket will work without 'shims.

 

[kenmac]

Thanks Mark . I missed that

 

[Dr M]

Thank you guys again.

Do any of you know the torque spec's for the head???
Do you know the torque pattern??
I am guessing, center-top/bottom, right-top/bottom(rear of the engine), left-top/bottom(water pump).

This is a great place to get information.

Thank you again.

Dave

 

[greatrandini]

You already have built in piston clearence because ur sleeves come over the block.. U might have a little more compression but it will be in specs. You will be ok since the shop took care of valve clearence for u. I don't know the torqe specs or pattern....

 

[Dr M]

Thank you.
Dave

 

[Dr M]

I am trying to fix a couple of other things while I am waiting for the head to be finished.

I took the starter in and they replaced 1 bad field. I cut a hole in the dash and added a temp gauge last night.

My hour meter is stuck on "99". The tach works though. How do I trouble shoot the hour meter??

My yanmar does not have an amp guage or charging light. Can I use the idiot light I removed from the temp sender for a charging light?? And if so how do I wire it in??

Do I have to worry about the idiot light for the oil sender?? Should I add an oil pressure guage??

Not anything urgent, I just thought I could solve a couple of other problems while I'm waiting.

Thanks for your help.
Dave

 

[kenmac]

The gears may be bad on your hr. meter you can buy a digital elect. hr meter for about $40.00 .Some add oil pressure gauge. I still have my lights. you can buy a volt/ amp gauge & add it with your oil gauge if you choose to go the gauge route.

 

[spyder2]

"Hope that helps... or check this site"

Can't help but notice, that's an Australian web site, inhabited by the same folks that inhabit S. Africa.

No Norm I need to correct you there. The people in SA are totally different from the people in Australia. Totally different backgrounds, totally different descent and totally different cultures. I have been to Australia and they are also good people but they are most definitely different to South Africans. Also they do not have the Boer Nation there. I am an Afrikaans speaking Boer and proud of it.

 

[spyder2]

Do any of you know the torque spec's for the head???
Do you know the torque pattern??
I am guessing, center-top/bottom, right-top/bottom(rear of the engine), left-top/bottom(water pump).

I was out of circulation for a couple of days. I have an I&T Shop manual that I bought off Amazon at home. It also covers the YM155 so it should be pretty close to your tractor.(someone will chime in here if I am totally wrong) I will look up the torque values and sequence and post it tomorrow.

Regards
Marnus

 

[HGM]

Do any of you know the torque spec's for the head???
Do you know the torque pattern??
I am guessing, center-top/bottom, right-top/bottom(rear of the engine), left-top/bottom(water pump).

I was out of circulation for a couple of days. I have an I&T Shop manual that I bought off Amazon at home. It also covers the YM155 so it should be pretty close to your tractor.(someone will chime in here if I am totally wrong) I will look up the torque values and sequence and post it tomorrow.

Regards
Marnus

This may not be specific to your engine, but I would be inclined to use the torque listed for the size bolt you have.. Also, a good rule of thumb for torquing anything is to start in the middle(each side, then work your way outward toward the ends of the engine evenly..This will, in effect, work any wrinkles out of the gasket... Most of the specs we use also start with a lower torque first to evenly distribute and seat the component before final torquing(IE: 20lbs ft, then the final Tq)... Good luck with it, your almost there....