Yanmar 186D broken shaft
- Thread starter ajaukema
- Start date
Fixed all the wiring!
Added LED work lights!
I got a used dynamo, sadly it doesn't fit.
Based on the color I think it's a kubota.
But..
Somehow magical the old dynamo is working again!
Very very strange, but im happy
Starting the engine is still horrible.
I might take a look at the valve clearance but can I take this valve cover off and re-install it without needing a new gasket?
Added LED work lights!
I got a used dynamo, sadly it doesn't fit.
Based on the color I think it's a kubota.
But..
Somehow magical the old dynamo is working again!
Very very strange, but im happy
Starting the engine is still horrible.
I might take a look at the valve clearance but can I take this valve cover off and re-install it without needing a new gasket?
rScotty
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Messages
- 8,446
- Location
- Rural mountains - Colorado
- Tractor
- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
Somehow magical the old dynamo is working again!
Very very strange, but im happy
Starting the engine is still horrible.
I might take a look at the valve clearance but can I take this valve cover off and re-install it without needing a new gasket?
If something electrical suddenly starts working, it is more likely to be an erratic connection rather than a component.
The valve cover gasket doesn't hold any pressure. The cover just captures the oil being flung around by the rockers. It is common to re-use valve cover gaskets by gluing them into the recess of the pressed steel valve cover with some silicon gasket maker so that the cover and gasket become one unit. If all goes well, bolting it back on makes the bottom of the gasket conforms on the engine side well enough to keep oil from leaking. There is a slight rim that helps with that. This works best with a new gasket.
You have nothing to lose by looking at the valves & might save your engine. You can always do a temporary gasket repair with silicon....but LET THE SILICONE CURE before reinstalling. You do not want uncured silicon forming stringers & mixing with the engine oil where it can be transported into narrow passages to clog up the oil feed.
best,
rScotty
OK lets get the cover off.
I have some fluid gasket left which I used for the hydraulic cylinder case (just in case)
Because the engine runs fine if it runs and there is lots of white smoke when cranking while full throttle I suspect it is a compression issue (don't have tools to test is)
Let me start checking on the valves.
I'll bleed the fuel system just to be shure.
Maybe take the injectors out for inspection/cleaning if it isnt too hard to get em out.
I have some fluid gasket left which I used for the hydraulic cylinder case (just in case)
Because the engine runs fine if it runs and there is lots of white smoke when cranking while full throttle I suspect it is a compression issue (don't have tools to test is)
Let me start checking on the valves.
I'll bleed the fuel system just to be shure.
Maybe take the injectors out for inspection/cleaning if it isnt too hard to get em out.
CoyPatton
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2015
- Messages
- 1,484
- Location
- Poplar Bluff, MO
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM2002D with Koyker 110 FEL
Yes it will.
If you remove the injectors, go ahead a get a compression tester.
I also like a leak down tester. Following poor compression test results. If you can identify when the air pressure is escaping, you learn a great deal regarding what is wrong in the engine.
Today checked the valves, two of them had way more space compared to 0.20 as specified, adjusted them.
Also got all the injectors out, very easy, so I guess Im mister lucky here
One of the bolts was already loose...hmm....not good
The hardest part was to move the second fuel line out of the injector since there is a little too less space if you want to leave the air intake manifold on.
They all look like this:
What do you guys think, dirty, very dirty or .....
Also checked the spray patterns, the way the diesel sprayed out, oh boy you cannot call that a pattern at all
Because the tractor is in use these days I put them back and will clean them later.
However the tractor started much better already, so I guess the loose injector made a compression leak.
Any tips on cleaning the injectors?
Also got all the injectors out, very easy, so I guess Im mister lucky here
One of the bolts was already loose...hmm....not good
The hardest part was to move the second fuel line out of the injector since there is a little too less space if you want to leave the air intake manifold on.
They all look like this:
What do you guys think, dirty, very dirty or .....
Also checked the spray patterns, the way the diesel sprayed out, oh boy you cannot call that a pattern at all
Because the tractor is in use these days I put them back and will clean them later.
However the tractor started much better already, so I guess the loose injector made a compression leak.
Any tips on cleaning the injectors?
rScotty
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Messages
- 8,446
- Location
- Rural mountains - Colorado
- Tractor
- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
How much more than 0.2mm? Generally, it can be twice that and still no problems with starting or low speed running. A little too much valve stem clearance just retards the injection timing a bit which tends to make them run a bit sooty.
The injectors don't look bad to me, but not sure what you can tell by looking. I've never rebuilt a set and always wanted to. I've heard there are kits available but would be very careful and maybe just use wood to scrape. The needle valve part has to be delicate. I wonder if marine Yanmar engines use the same injectors?
Only other hint is to be careful when doing a spray pattern. Several thousand PSI spray WILL penetrate skin, and can blind you. The infection that follows high pressure injection through the skin - even in the hands - has reportedly killed people.
luck,
rScotty
bmaverick
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,792
- Location
- Beloit-WI
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM2610 ■YANMAR GURU■ EXTRAORDINAIRE
Today checked the valves, two of them had way more space compared to 0.20 as specified, adjusted them.
Also got all the injectors out, very easy, so I guess Im mister lucky here
One of the bolts was already loose...hmm....not good
The hardest part was to move the second fuel line out of the injector since there is a little too less space if you want to leave the air intake manifold on.
They all look like this:
View attachment 683396
What do you guys think, dirty, very dirty or .....
Also checked the spray patterns, the way the diesel sprayed out, oh boy you cannot call that a pattern at all
Because the tractor is in use these days I put them back and will clean them later.
However the tractor started much better already, so I guess the loose injector made a compression leak.
Any tips on cleaning the injectors?
With the metal parts, an ultrasonic parts cleaner and Seafoam is how I've done it for years. Seafoam works well on diesel and as a cleaner for the fuel system. I've let the parts sit in for 15~20 mins at a time. IF it still looked nasty, more time was needed. When doing this, ideally outside and fresh air is best. An open garage or on the front porch has worked for me. Just keep away from the pets.
From the YM186 Parts Manual on pg 33, it shows a nice exploded diagram view of how it goes together. Wish it mentioned the torque requirements to put it all back together.
