Yanmar 187D - 4WD just quit on me

[Johndeere3720]

You know, I am pretty sure tractorernie has a 186d in his parts yard. He may have what you are looking for. There is one dealership out here that has a parts yard with yanmar, kubota, and several other brands. Im not sure if they have a 186 or 187D though, their tractors look like the imported units from japan, not the domestic tractors like the 186 or 187d.

 

[284 International]

I don't know what to tell you about pulling the pinion nut off. When I do an axle the pinion is left on the third member (axle housing) and the resistance of the tires on the ground lets me loosen the pinion nut. With the housing already broken, I'd be nervous about applying too much torque on a breaker bar with it screwed to the housing. You need a service manual to know what the torque is on these. It will probably have shims under the nut or the teeth of the pinion too. Keep track of those, too. I don't think these have a crush sleeve.

You really need to access a manual to know what the bearing preload and pinion depth are supposed to be as well. These gears are constantly driving, and the 4wd selector only connects the already spinning gears to the transmission. If the gears are improperly set up, they will wear out prematurely, even though these aren't such a high rpm as automotive gears are.

Make sure you verify the surfaces of the pinion holder are square and flat. Otherwise, when torqued down, it will stress the casting, the ears, and/or the weld, and it will likely crack and break again.

I would really spend 15 minutes on the phone with Tractor Ernie and the places Norm mentioned, and see if they have a replacement. I hope it works out, take photos of your repair for us!

 

[winston1]

May be wrong, won't be the first time, but, I believe those bearings are radial ball bearings and there won't be any preload on them. Some of the bigger Yanmars have tapered roller bearing there and they do have a preload. I believe those bearings are held apart and correctly by a spacer between them and snap rings. Still believe only adjustment you have is the shims for correct backlash. Of course, the flange on the housing being true is very important.

 

[284 International]

Thanks Winston. I obviously don't know, but knew someone would, what/if the situation of the bearings are. The only things I've ever done have been automobile axles. This is why he needs access, one way or another, to a manual.:thumbsup:

 

[winston1]

Thanks Winston. I obviously don't know, but knew someone would, what/if the situation of the bearings are. The only things I've ever done have been automobile axles. This is why he needs access, one way or another, to a manual.:thumbsup:

I agree! Going to try and attach a John Deere drawing. Probably won't work.

 

[DWeinreich]

Winston1-that JDeere diagram is really helpful and now I get what the broken #23 ring does. Got the welding equipment and nickel rod ready to go so if the weather holds I'll try reattaching the busted ears this weekend. The guy at the welding supply shop thought the ears are cast steel not cast iron. Either way he said the nickel rod was the right thing. I'm going to pull the whole axle out from under the tractor to make it easier to work on. I'll post some process pix if all goes well. Meantime I have to find some roll pins to replace the one that came out in two pieces when the u-joint was disassembled.

Thanks for all the advise so far.

 

[California]

I have to find some roll pins to replace the one that came out in two pieces when the u-joint was disassembled.

They used a small rollpin inside a larger one in many cases. Metric, and a little hard to find.

 

[284 International]

The local "Do It Best Home Center" has those metric roll pins. It was formerly a large Ace hardware; both brands carried them.

 

[Gary Sweat]

They used a small rollpin inside a larger one in many cases. Metric, and a little hard to find.

In case you have never done them, the slots in the 2 pins should be 180 degrees from each other according to the service manual.

 

[DWeinreich]

Weather is about 30 degrees so I set to working on the tractor. I want to pull the whole front end out by pulling the pivot pin BUT can't do it without disconnecting the steering linkage. This looked simple but when I removed the castle nut from the swivel joint it won't budge. Tried pounding on it with a hammer and wood block but no-go. Here's a picture. Any ideas how to get the ball joint bolt out of its hole? Is it threaded? If so where do get a wrench on it?