Yanmar 187D - 4WD just quit on me

[Gary Sweat]

Weather is about 30 degrees so I set to working on the tractor. I want to pull the whole front end out by pulling the pivot pin BUT can't do it without disconnecting the steering linkage. This looked simple but when I removed the castle nut from the swivel joint it won't budge. Tried pounding on it with a hammer and wood block but no-go. Here's a picture. Any ideas how to get the ball joint bolt out of its hole? Is it threaded? If so where do get a wrench on it?

There are several types of tools to remove it. Be careful pounding on the threaded end, there easy to damage the threads. You can usually rent these at a auto parts store and some will loan them for free.

 

[DWeinreich]

So there are no female threads holding the stud in?

 

[Gary Sweat]

So there are no female threads holding the stud in?

It's a tapered shaft that gets stuck from pressure and rust. The nut just pulls the shaft down into the taper to hold it.

 

[winston1]

Sometimes you can put a large hammer on one side of that lower part, take another pretty good size hammer and strike it just oppisite of the backup and it will pop right out.

 

[DWeinreich]

Got her out. Thanks gents!

 

[California]

On reassembly, I wonder if you could rotate the tailshaft to put the welds on top and sound metal on the bottom side.

 

[Johndeere3720]

If it is threaded, why not push the dirt out of the hole on the end of the bolt and use a screw driver to try and turn it? Then when it is loose enough it can be done with a vice grip. When I replaced one of the seals on my front axle, i just unbolted the steering mechanism from the axle. I'm not sure but my 169D's axle looks almost exactly the same as yours.

 

[DWeinreich]

Here are pictures from the day's work. The question is whether the pinion gear is ok. I suspect it is, but here's an image of it.

Never got to the final weld up today. But the pieces are prepped with U shaped grooves. Once the fronts are welded I'll groove out the machined face and weld the back, then grind the welds flush so the alignment stays true. Darkness and cold caught shut things down for now...it will have to wait a couple of weeks till I get back to it. It will be interesting to see if the nickel welding rod works.

The SAE roll pins didn't fit the u joint so I have to look for metric ones. And also a metric O ring seal.

The advice from you-all has been just great. Thank you.

 

[winston1]

DWeinreich, maybe i missed something but it would appear you have removed the pinion holder housing from the differential housing. Mind sharing how you did this? Does look like your pinion has suffered a little abuse but with good lube I suspect it will out last you. Forget about my question, I read the answer on Tractor Support.

 

[DWeinreich]

Sure Winston1. Here's what I remember.

Drain the gear oil out of the front axle.

Jack up the front of the tractor and put it on stands.

Disconnect the drive shaft from the front u joint by removing the circlips and driving out the nested roll pins (both ends of the u joint). This took a punch and some pounding. Slide the drive shaft back.

Disconnect the drag rod at the forward ball joint. This required removing the castle nut and pounding the threaded stud upward with a hammer and block of hardwood to protect the threads. It was stubborn and had to be torch warmed and tunked side to side to break the bond.

Lower the tractor till the front wheels just touch the ground and the center pin has no load on it.

Support the pinion holder with a small jack to take the torque off the center pin.

Take out the center pin (four 17mm bolts, set in lock tight).

Jack the tractor up and off the front axle assembly and wheel it out.

Back out the four pinion holder bolts and wiggle it out of the axle case. The pinion bearing is a snug fit but will come out of the hole. Take care not to damage the o ring seal on the pinion holder.