Yanmar 2210 lift arms too short for tiller

[Scoutman]

So I just go my hands on a tiller to go behind my YM2210 and turns out the tiller is a Yanmar as well. I think it's a RSB1400 but don't hold me to that. So after getting it home I hooked things up and the rear arms seem too short. The sheetmetal on the front of the tiller rubs the back tire tread and I don't see any way to change this other than to make some extension brackets. I looked at maybe shortening the top link but I don't want to change the geometry of the tiller too much and I'm not sure that would rotate the tiller out of the way enough to clear. Am I missing something here? How should this be setup correctly?






I put this in the Yanmar section instead of the attachments section, if it needs to be moved, please do.

 

[California]

You've come to the right place. Welcome!

What's missing is the special top link that belongs with that tiller. It tilts the tiller away from the wheels as it rises.

This has two parts: a 'bridge' that bolts to the tractor and goes halfway back, then a half-length top link to go the rest of the way back. I have some photos on here somewhere but don't have time to look for them at the moment.

I suggest ask the tiller seller for those components - it isn't a complete kit without those components.

 

[winston1]

I did exactly what you are talking about by fabricating a shorter top link for my 2002d and rs1300 tiller. The amount it tilts the tiller will not affect lubrication. It will also improve the drive line angle. Been running mine that way for several years. I don't have much tire clearance but as long as it doesn't hit an inch is as good as a mile.

 

[Scoutman]

You've come to the right place. Welcome!

What's missing is the special top link that belongs with that tiller. It tilts the tiller away from the wheels as it rises.

This has two parts: a 'bridge' that bolts to the tractor and goes halfway back, then a half-length top link to go the rest of the way back. I have some photos on here somewhere but don't have time to look for them at the moment.

I suggest ask the tiller seller for those components - it isn't a complete kit without those components.

I got the tiller from a friend. They never could get it set up right on their bigger JD either so when they got rid of the JD, I got it to use. Some Google searches showed me that it's also missing some wheels that go behind it but I think that's ok.

So will just rolling the top forward be enough to clear? I'm starting to make a set of extension arms out of 1/2" plate for the lower pins and to give me some space. The PTO shaft should fit as should one of my top links.

 

[Scoutman]

The red top link that's in the picts above was the shortest I had and someone had cut it down at some point (see the welds right at the midpoint handle). I guess I could cut that down some more if this doesn't work.

 

[careyo63]

I had the same prob. on my FM. I just turned my pins on the mower Inward and that cured that prob.and kept the arms away from the wheels. My Rs1400 Tiller are out and the chains must be tight with no slack at all so they don't hit. I thought of Rev. them inward but never had the need to and plus I sold it. It was a little to beat up for it to be a keeper. I Can't complain I sold it on CL. in 3 days for what I gave for it.

 

[zzvyb6]

Disassemble the main drive cross tubes and reassemble them 180 degrees so the longer arms are now forward instead of rearward. That will give you 2 more inches of clearance.

 

[California]

Ok here's how Yanmar intended their tillers to be set up. Note the special top link components. I call the tractor-side part a 'bridge'. I have it attached with pins here in this photo but there was too much slop so I then used the factory bolts that came with the 'bridge'.

I took this photo to show that the driveline provided by the importer was too short - so ignore that component. (After seeing this photo they gave me a free PTO shaft extender, no hassle).

And here's the old thread where I posted that photo. Another new tiller owner had the same questions as you. There are other similar threads here, and the correct solution in all of them is: Don't butcher the tiller, just get the correct Yanmar components (or weld up a replica of that top bridge). It is needed to tilt the tiller away from the tires as it rises.

 

[careyo63]

I was told it was a must. And I can see that it's awful close to the Rears of yours. So if It hits this is what you need to keep it away.

 

[zzvyb6]

Looks like the 'bridge' deal is for a mower to let it float relative to the tractor. My Woods rear finish mower came with this type of linkage. On a tiller, you need pitch stiffness to keep the tiller from flopping forward. This would only work on a reverse drive tiller (which makes the tiller top link pull rearward). My Yanmar tiller pulls forward, so this rig would just twist up the machine and fail the driveline.

Spin the torque tubes around to get more reach.