Yanmar RS1202 Tiller project

[Menagerie-Manor]

Is it worth grabbing at that price. Can fix pretty much anything and I have no plans to till a field but rather just small projects.

 

[California]

Is it worth grabbing at that price. Can fix pretty much anything and I have no plans to till a field but rather just small projects.

I would IF I had a clear idea how to make the mount. It's an alternative to spending $500+ for the three-point version after searching for many months.

When I bought my RS1400 the advice here from an experienced dealer was immediately replace the bearing on the far side of the tiller shaft. They all rust because they were used submerged in a paddy and can seize, scoring the shaft. It's a standard bearing. Aside from that and judging if the tines are serviceable there isn't much else that is ever expected to break. Oh and replace the gear oil (90 wt) because there is always condensation water in there, but I've never read of that causing a problem. Those tillers are built so tough that there's little that can harm them.

I would talk him down on price. There's not much demand for that special-mount tiller. It's made for semi-permanent mounting to a specific tractor.

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

I would IF I had a clear idea how to make the mount. It's an alternative to spending $500+ for the three-point version after searching for many months.

When I bought my RS1400 the advice here from an experienced dealer was immediately replace the bearing on the far side of the tiller shaft. They all rust because they were used submerged in a paddy and can seize, scoring the shaft. It's a standard bearing. Aside from that and judging if the times are serviceable there isn't much else that is ever expected to break. Oh and replace the gear oil (90 wt) because there is always condensation water in there, but I've never read of that causing a problem. Those tillers are built so tough that there's little that can harm them.

I would talk him down on price. There's not much demand for that special-mount tiller. It's made for semi-permanent mounting to a specific tractor.

Good info thanks.

 

[YanmarFever]

That tiller is for a YM 1301 - 1401 or a 1510
It will take a lot of fabrication to make that baby hum on a different tractor , plus the PTO shaft on those were not the greatest.
If you're retired , go for it, or it will make a good winter project. However you have a lot of members here with good advice.

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

As much as I would like a bulletproof Yanmar Tiller I'm gonna pass on it for now. May hit it hard in the Fall for a winter project.

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

Just came across this photo.

 

[bmaverick]

As much as I would like a bulletproof Yanmar Tiller I'm gonna pass on it for now. May hit it hard in the Fall for a winter project.

Get one of these.

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

Get one of these.

That's a young man's sport......

 

[MarshSt]

California, You mentioned replacing the 90 wt gear oil in the tiller. I haven't pulled any plugs yet except the plastic fill cap on the cross tube and mine doesn't have any labels on it. Is the oil common to the chain case and 90° gearbox? What is the fill level and how many quarts does it hold?
Steve

 

[California]

I never found any instructions for fill so I put in just enough oil to flow from the gear case over to the PTO gear. There's no barrier between them.

I don't recall quantity, maybe a quart? Same oil is used in the front 4x4 axle so its something to keep on hand.

Maybe Ernie has better advice.

 

[bmaverick]

I never found any instructions for fill so I put in just enough oil to flow from the gear case over to the PTO gear. There's no barrier between them.

I don't recall quantity, maybe a quart? Same oil is used in the front 4x4 axle so its something to keep on hand.

Maybe Ernie has better advice.

The Yanmar tillers from the mid-2010s still require a PTO overrun-clutch on the tractors like our YM machines do. And these tillers have the same drive layout as their Japan tillers. So in English, I would follow the Yanmar manual below as the guide for the oil and the fill level.

Other than the Yanmar RT Series tillers, I've not come across any Yanmar tillers with OPS manuals.

See attached.

 

[MarshSt]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm still finishing up the new driveline so checking bearings and lube will be next. Hopefully have it under power this weekend.
Steve

 

[Williy]

Will this help???

willy

 

[careyo63]

I think that tractor must have a built in ORC. looking at how safe it operates.........

 

[MarshSt]

The mount and driveline is done and the unit is on and under power. Modifying the driveline was a bit more work than I anticipated. I split the original double yoke and used the two ends to create the slip section (3/4 solid sq bar) and added a 3/8 shear bolt at the drive end. For the tiller end 16 spline I made a set screw collar for the original yoke and ground a dimple (spline too hard to drill) in one spline to engage the set screw. I held the tiller back to allow room for all of the driveline parts but it could have come forward a little and still had decent engagement on the slip segment. The driveline is the most complicated and potentially expensive part of the 2 to 3-point conversion IMO.
The Oil has been changed in both the gearbox and chain case, the original gearbox "oil" was water first out the drain hole then pudding. Chain case oil didn't look bad when I drained it. Both will be changed again after some use. The lower RH bearing is a little corroded and sloppy but still spun easily, I gave it a wipe down in place and added fresh grease. It will be replaced before any real use. I gave it a short test run on my gokart track and it did a nice job about 2" deep to stir up the surface except it found every rock I didn't know I had.
Steve

 

[YanmarFever]

I converted a few of these 2 point tillers to 3 point back in the day. I welded arms on the side of the top shaft and drilled holes for the 2 pins, then used a longer pto shaft.