yanmar ym1500 update

[Car Doc]

or you can get a pack like this it tells you what they are Assorted sheet gasket material. Ideal for use on smaller jobs where the original gasket/seal is no longer available

Pack contains 5 assorted sheets all @ 270x230mm (10.5"x9")

0.4mm General Purpose Oil Resistant Paper. Will work with temperatures up to 120 degrees centigrade

0.8mm Controlled Swell Beater Jointing. Ideal for older applications with low bolt load. Good resistance to oils, fuels and water/glycol will operate up to 140 degrees centigrade

1mm General Purpose Oil Resistant Paper. Will work with temperatures up to 120 degrees centigrade.

1.5mm Standard Beater Jointing, with Anti-Stick Coating. Good resistance to oils, fuels and water/glycol will work with temperatures up to 160 degrees centigrade

3mm Nitrile Bonded Cork. For use where a soft gasket is required with resistance to oil and fuel. Will work with temperatures up to 120 degrees centigradeused for found it on the net

.4 mm = .015", .8 mm = .031", 1.0 mm = .039", 1.5 mm = .060". jmo but the .4 or .8 mm or even 1.0 mm would work fine.

 

[billymc]

thanks for the reply car doc . would you recommend the 08 for it saying for older applicartions? and use a little rtv silicone on the casing side as well? thanks billy

 

[284 International]

I would believe Car Doc over myself; it seems like most of the interfaces of these tractors are machined quite nicely, and they use rather thin gasket paper on the brake drum covers and other places like that. For the PTO cover, I would pick something that felt as close in thickness as the factory one. I would guess it is the 0.4mm, but it is only a guess.

Car Doc has vastly more experience in these things than me, but I have used silicone in conjunction with gaskets with good success. I have used it on motorcycle cases exactly as he says: A very thin film, spread with a fingertip. I use that to "glue" the gasket in place while it contorts around the complex pattern of the casing. Without some sort of bonding agent, the paper gaskets don't really stay in place well enough to reassemble the parts without pinching the thin paper. On your PTO housing, it should be simple to get it to lay flat enough without the silicone.

 

[Car Doc]

thanks for the reply car doc . would you recommend the 08 for it saying for older applicartions? and use a little rtv silicone on the casing side as well? thanks billy

Billy you could use one or the other is my recommendation .4-1.0 is fine I dont see any advantage one vs another when they are only that thick especially if the castings are nicely machined. Also I personally only use silicone on a gasket in situations where I plan on re-installing something that still has a decent gasket thats still attached to it or I am too lazy to scrape it off or its an instance where a gasket is hard to find and the one I have is useable. fwtw

edit: In fact in this instance I cant see what you are doing but I can almost guarantee you w/o hesitation I would use anerobic, after reading what 284 and others have said about the nicely machined surfaces and forget about it and I am serious as I can be save time and will be a leak free job and EASY haha!!! here is what I am talking about guess it shows I cant spell www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers.htm

and it wont take much either just smear it on real thin on both surfaces with fingers and how you know its enough is a tiny smooth red edge (color of this stuff) shows at the parting line once shes tight any more is a waste of material. hth


What I use to stick gaskets on in situations where its going to be hard to assemble is High Tack aircraft gasket sealer (there is that word I hate haha) it dries fast and sticks like crazy its not like a "lube" like slippery silicone sealer is. Another way is punch the holes small and screw a couple bolts in to hold it while assembling it and dont need any sticker.

Now if you chose to use silicone with a gasket only use it on one side is the safest way and pick the roughest surface side to put the silicone on if there is one that way the gasket doesn't want to slip when installing it like 284 mentioned will keep it in place while you line the bolts up etc. That and also they tend not to squish out with silicone or whatever one one side only. hth

 

[California]

... in this instance [pto cover]...I would use anerobic ... save time and will be a leak free job and EASY
www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers.htm

Thanks for your detailed response above, and for this specific reply too. I just learned a lot.

 

[clemsonfor]

When i said "goop" on Sillycone (intentional misspelling) i used that term cause i knew a lot of mecanichs hate it cause us guys overuse it like you said. I use to as well when i started mechanicing, when i was in highschool and college. Then when i was around my father in laws shop i realized that all you need it to squeeze it out and smear a film on both sides with your finger, or a bit thicker if its near impossible to get at on the mating surface. I get the thin line you talk about at the mating point sometimes a thincker blob squeezes out but nver "droops, or falls off". And i realize that if you get it on the outside your getting that on the inside, so yes can plug cooling passages or oil passages. And low and behold i actually have a better seal than when i just ran a bead on the surface and put it togeather to ooze out.

 

[billymc]

yes thanks very much for the detailed response and the comment very helpful. ive ordered the seal and it should be here next week so will let you guys know when i start the job as ive got a few jobs i need to use the yanmar for before i strip the pto cover. well enjoy the weekend every body. billy

 

[Car Doc]

Thanks for your detailed response above, and for this specific reply too. I just learned a lot.

Welcome!

There are methods to my madness I was an employer for a long time (I dont have help anymore I am somewhat winding my career down) but teaching my techs how to seal things in such a way and to think about what they were trying to accomplish on a case by case basis so the work gets done only once, one method is not right for all instances was a real challenge. fwtw I try hard to help people think on their own by giving reasons one way or another and why I come up with it its my teaching style. I believe short answers get short results a thinking man can accomplish anything. my .002

We dont get paid the second time in fact it costs us triple to have a comeback so I was adamant they did it right and we did for the most part the ones that listened stayed around the longest anyway.

edit: one more thing anaerobic vs silicone is silicone will essentially do the same thing except it will bridge gaps better but needs quite a bit of time to vulcanize (harden) it doesn't like gasoline, it is fine on tin covers and flexible applications.

anaerobic can be put into service almost immediately it needs close clearances and applications where the isn't any movement IE a tin cover will not work a thermostat housing or water pump or trany case will work, anaerobic will work around gasoline and higher temps and pressures. hth

 

[billymc]

hi guys just a quick question for you howwarm dose that casing and oil get on the backend so i know the different heat grade of gasket to get ? thanks

 

[clemsonfor]

It will get so hot it will burn you if you pull it after working in 95F heat for a few hours! But its not like touching a hot cyl head or anything, you can probly hold your hand on it when warm but it still gets hot! My guess would be 160F ish but i really dont know and that is a total guess?