Yanmar YM2000 Fuel Pressure/ hard starting

[TX mower]

I'm not at all familiar with the YM2000 but IIRC (though my memory may have failed me here) from my TBN forum browsing there's threads here specific to adding implements to that model which refer to an OEM divider block on the USA non-grey-market import YM2000 (distinct from it's grey-market cousin lacking the OEM divider block). Perhaps search both this Yanmar section and the Hydraulics section of the forum.

IF your has an OEM divider block, bypassing that may be the cause of some or all of your issues.

IF the OEM divider block is similar to that on my 336D, it will have a requirement to insert an internal blind plug when you remove the port caps to add external connections in order for all to work-and-play right.

 

[Indirocz28]

Agree. I think at worst it might just need more rpm to attain rated output.

If fluid is leaking out of the new valve and it sounds like the pump is straining, that sounds like a pressure restriction somewhere. Maybe open fittings at various points to see if there is pressure where there shouldn't be. But take safety precautions, fluid under pressure is serious.

Thanks for the replies Clemsonfor and California.

In response to the RPM thing, I was running it around 15/1600rpm max when using & testing. In a different thread I read earlier, I believe I saw someone had said 2000-2200rpm for decent speed of the loader.

I have no doubts that there has to be something wrong with the piston seal for the 3 point. I’ve checked to make sure the lock out valve is completely open, and it has been since we discussed that previously.
The PO had it just shy of being turned off. I wish I would have known more about it before purchasing. I would have maybe offered $1,000 for the darn thing if I had known it was going to need all that it has needed. Oh well, it’s my problem now.

I don’t think the leak will stop in the loader valve, but I do agree with there possibly being a pressure restriction somewhere. I plan to crack all the lines loose tomorrow and start the tractor and let it bleed at low RPM for a few seconds to hopefully clear any air out, then turn off and tighten everything.

I know that won’t fix my 3 point issue, but it should help me diagnose loader flow issues.

Then I guess I will see about removing the piston for the 3 point and seeing how all of that looks.

Clemson, you say the “top of the tranmission” I assume you’re referring to the 3 point control valve that the banjo bolt for the HP line goes to? (See first image). If so, I’ve already had this off and apart.
After the engine rebuild, it was stuck solid internally and 3 point was just up. The piston inside of there was stuck. I was able to get it freed up, but there is still (#24 in pic) retained inside the piston. It does appear that it IS supposed to stay in there according to the parts diagram.

I was referring to removing the piston that is retained behind the lock out valve, and inspecting all of that. (See 2nd image, circled in yellow).

 

[Indirocz28]

I'm not at all familiar with the YM2000 but IIRC (though my memory may have failed me here) from my TBN forum browsing there's threads here specific to adding implements to that model which refer to an OEM divider block on the USA non-grey-market import YM2000 (distinct from it's grey-market cousin lacking the OEM divider block). Perhaps search both this Yanmar section and the Hydraulics section of the forum.

IF your has an OEM divider block, bypassing that may be the cause of some or all of your issues.

IF the OEM divider block is similar to that on my 336D, it will have a requirement to insert an internal blind plug when you remove the port caps to add external connections in order for all to work-and-play right.

My little YM2000BD does not have the divider block like the American version YM240, or 336.
While I am certainly not a hydraulics expert, I have been around many different pieces of equipment and implements that are hydraulic. Just going off of past experiences where I am kind of with California in that it seems there is either air still trapped in the loader system, or there is a restriction somewhere and it’s having pressure problems.

I can push the bucket down and use it to lift the front of the tractor off the ground though.

 

[TX mower]

My little YM2000BD does not have the divider block like the American version YM240, or 336.

Please accept my apology for the wasted tangent - I certainly never intended to question your skills in any respect.

.... Just managed to reveal my ignorance of the US vs grey distinctions of Yanmar model numbers (forgetting the 3-digit vs 4-digit rule). :ashamed:

 

[Indirocz28]

Please accept my apology for the wasted tangent - I certainly never intended to question your skills in any respect.

.... Just managed to reveal my ignorance of the US vs grey distinctions of Yanmar model numbers.

I don’t view it as wasted by any means, nor any apology owed. It is a helpful tidbit of info for sure, which I undoubtedly would have checked into if it weren’t for just a few hours prior, figuring out that the grey market and American market YM2000/YM240s differ in that aspect, so I do thank you for your contribution definitely!

 

[Indirocz28]

A bit earlier, I took the tractor outside and cracked open the return lines for the loader cylinders and let them squirt some fluid out while I moved the loader valve around a little at just above idle RPMs and then shut the tractor off, and tightened the lines back up. Seems to have solved the straining issue when lowering the boom now. Hopefully it was just air trapped. I also cleaned the hydro fluid out from under the rubber joystick dust cover, and removed it so I could see if it continued to leak.

I ran the tractor at 2000rpm, did some light driveway grading with the bucket, moved a small bit of gravel, and pushed some limbs around into a pile in the back yard.
The loader valve didn’t leak a drop.

UNTIL, I hooked the box blade back up on the 3 point to test some things out. Upon raising it fully, obviously with the handle all the way back, the 3 point comes all the way up, and then strains the system/hits relief valve or whatever. Even with the speed control lever all the way closed under the seat, the box blade will still fall on its own (slowly though). So the speed control lever seems to work, but there is basically no fine control of the the 3 point.

I need to figure out if I need to replace the 3 point control block on top of the trans (where the lever pushes against) or the actual piston that is behind the lock out turn valve setup inside the front.