Yet another Ford 1700 with hydraulic issues...

[JC-jetro]

I already had the cylinder out and replaced the piston seal. I'm talking about the horizontal plate right in front of that that would be between your knees. I'm thinking that would give me a view of the strainer / filter.

Below is what you will find out. you cannot see the inside of diffy from there.

Thank you. I understand the concept of how a gear pump works but I was trying to figure out if there would be something or pressure against the shaft seal.

I will keep you posted.

 

[teachag295]

Thank you for saving me the time. I sure hope you already had these pictures Handy and are not pulling your tractor apart as we discussed this to show me.

 

[JC-jetro]

Thank you for saving me the time. I sure hope you already had these pictures Handy and are not pulling your tractor apart as we discussed this to show me.

Yes , I do have all pictures from all the work I have done and they are readily available as I need them. That is not just tractor stuff, any project I have done, at work or otherwise is also cataloged and backed up also.

 

[teachag295]

Slight update. A friend who is a mobile tractor and truck mechanic told me to add extra fluid and run it more with the filler open. I tried that and shined a light in the filler hole. the case was full of foaming fluid cycling back in. At this point I guess I need to do the pump.

I found the shaft seal new old stock in NY for $41 with shipping and the other kit for $62 with shipping in CA. So I can get the old parts for just over $100 which saves me about $70. I guess that is the rout I am going to go.

One last question, could there be something wrong with the valve that controls the 3pt? It is really the only thing I have not torn down.

 

[JC-jetro]

Slight update. A friend who is a mobile tractor and truck mechanic told me to add extra fluid and run it more with the filler open. I tried that and shined a light in the filler hole. the case was full of foaming fluid cycling back in. At this point I guess I need to do the pump.

I don't believe extra oil can help in any appreciable way. As long as the pump inlet is flooded, by 1 inch or 5 inch makes no difference because pump flow is the same and should be able to run without cavitation (sucking air and oil at the same time). Now if you pump faster than what is returned to the reservoir or diffy then the pump can suck oil and air which can contribute to foaming in the pump inlet that is not fully flooded. The suction elevation is at least 8" below the normal hyd fluid level in the transmission by inspecting the hyd dipstick oil level. I am still perplexed by oil foaming if screen is clean and you have ample oil in the diffy. Almost always pump cavitation is caused in the suction line or the pump that is real worn out and your pictures don't corroborate with worn out pump. That kind of leaves the seal as a culprit. I guess pump overhaul is you last option.

I found the shaft seal new old stock in NY for $41 with shipping and the other kit for $62 with shipping in CA. So I can get the old parts for just over $100 which saves me about $70. I guess that is the rout I am going to go.

mine costed me around $60 , 15 years ago so considering inflation and unit is getting 15 year older perhaps it is okay.

One last question, could there be something wrong with the valve that controls the 3pt? It is really the only thing I have not torn down.

Below you can see the pic of the spool valve that controls the lift. You can see there is oil splashed all over it. The reason is lift spool valve flows hyd fluid to the lift piston , once the lift height is achieved, then all the flow needs to go somewhere to avoid dead heading the pump and it does end up in the diffy by the spool valve inside the diffy. That oil discharge might add some air bubble but once it hits the floor of diffy then bubbles should collapse. I just can't see it causes the foaming. it is not easy to dismantle the spool valve. it is highly machined spool and mating parts. It will be difficult to source the inside component unless a hydraulics shop is able to mic and measure seals, o-rings and be able to put it back together. I would not dork with it at this point at all.

Good luck.